The E36RH has no pan, just a panel for the bottom glassed to hull sides and aft bulkhead. It’s big but shallow (~12 inches deep aft, tapering down to 15 inches forward) obviously for a Danforth to save weight. The drain is just a hole drilled through the prow exiting below the forestay chainplate.On the larger boats the hose is just a flexible hose, held on with hose clamps. Dead simple.
The problem with having two hose clamps lower than the bottom of the bucket is how to tighten one clamp or the other after the bucket is installed? Somebody did it with no access port. That implies Ericson probably used one of two methods. The first possibility was that they put the bucket in before the bulkhead, which is doubtful, as they would have needed to first install all the deck hardware such as the pulpit.
The second would be to only have one clamp to attach a long hose to the bucket. They'd then feed the hose thru the bow, pulling excess through as the bucket was lowered, put some sealant on the hose, push it back in slightly for the sealer to hold the hose in place, then cut off the extra hose sticking out of the bow.
Again, looking forward to what nquigley reports that he finds. As he noted, an access port would need to actually be two ports, one through the fiberglass storage, and the second through the wood bulkhead.
The hose looks to be about 8 in Long. That's good news: If you reattach the lower end first (to the hull-side fitting-- albeit hanging upside down in the anchor Locker when you do), that means the upper fitting will be 8 inch or so above the bottom of that bulkhead, probably accessible from the interior storage compartment if you cut an access port.
I'd probably be tempted at this point to drill a small pin sized hole through from the lower interior of the V-birth, just to see where it comes out height-wise.
I think that this might work for my 30+. Does anyone know what kind of material is being used for the frame? Also is the frame just attached to the plastic anchor locker tub or is it somehow attached to the deck? I just installed a new bow roller and a new Bruce style anchor. I installed an anchor lock just forward of the locker door. I don't mind modifying the door to fit the windlass.
I have talked to my psychiatrist about this and he says it is OK to bring it up if it makes me feel better.
I beg you to reinstall the original hinge to its place on the windlass deck, so as to hide the imperfection of its removal.
It will only be a dummy hinge, true. But the world will again spin on its proper axis, and this damnable wobble will stop.
Good thought.The roller furling drum is about at the level of the top of the capstan, but the sail's tack is another ~12-18" above the drum, so the foot won't dip down far enough that far forward to interfere with the capstan.Does that give you any problems when tacking, or is your jib foot high enough that it slides over easily?
Attached are two pics from the installation I finished in October.
The only remaining thing to do is mount a second hinge on the liftable lid (the hinge I'll use is the one that used to be in the portion of the lid that now has the windlass).
Honestly, I feel EXACTLY the same. If I can find exactly the same hinge, that's what I'll do.
- maybe it's not hard to find.
I'm planning a full write-up for the forum, with lots of pics, when it's totally done, and I can show the thing actually in use.I too have a 32-3 and am very interested in your installation. Can you supply more details? What model windless? How did you reinforce the forward section of the anchor door to take the strain? Any more photos you can share?