Wiring routing in galley of a 32-3

[peaman]

As part of our replacement of the original GSI CNG system with range with a propane installation, we need to install a propane leak sensor with wiring to the new control panel. In the 32-3, the trough in the cabinetry directly below the range seems like the ideal place for an effective, protected and discreet leak sensor:



From there, I would like to run the sensor wiring into the cabinet just forward of the range, and thence to the propane control panel. in the second photo, I have removed the bottom-hinged cabinet compartment to reveal the cabinet interior:



I would like to install the propane control panel where marked in the third photo, adjacent to the range safety bar.



I like the efficiency of this arrangement, but I do not know how I can run the sensor wiring from the cabinet forward of the range to the cabinet aft of the range, due to the structure under the sole. The hole in the bottom of the forward cabinet goes into an apparently inaccessible compartment outboard of the bilge. Installing the sensor, and running the wiring at the opposite (aft) end of the "trough" doesn't work because the lowest part of the icebox blocks that area.

Without removing the sole in the galley, is there any reasonable way to run wiring from the forward cabinet to the aft/sink/icebox cabinet? The wiring connector requires an opening approx 3/8"x3/4" in order to pass through.

 

[Loren Beach]

I have installed screw out Beckson plates in several locations on our boat for access-- lockers, tank tops, etc

Screw-Out Deck Plate by Beckson

Perhaps worth consideration?

edit: nice looking finish on the sole!

 

[peaman]

edit: nice looking finish on the sole!

Thanks! I bought the boat in early April, and interior condition was a big factor. As beautiful as she is, I very much want to maintain or exceed that standard.

A screw-out plate might be the best answer to get below that compartment (I've used them before), but which way to go from there?

Running aft, there must be an obstruction at the aft side of the space below. Looking in the bilge just inboard of the compartment (I should have pulled back the carpet to reveal the bilge and cover there), there appears to be a TAFG structure running athwartship. Another of those beams or channels occurs at the forward side of the next bilge (at the foot of the companionway ladder), with an inaccessible several inches (12 or so?) in between.

So running inboard to the bilge is probably the better choice. But what obstruction is there between the bilge and the space immediately below the cabinet? There is a vertical structure basically at the edge of the teak/holly sole. Maybe it's just a 1/4" fiberglass panel, or maybe it's a heavier part of the TAFG structure? Any idea? From that bilge, it should be easy enough to get to the location of the new control panel.

Thanks for any insights.

 

[nquigley]

As part of our replacement of the original GSI CNG system with range with a propane installation, we need to install a propane leak sensor with wiring to the new control panel. In the 32-3, the trough in the cabinetry directly below the range seems like the ideal place for an effective, protected and discreet leak sensor:

View attachment 39454

From there, I would like to run the sensor wiring into the cabinet just forward of the range, and thence to the propane control panel. in the second photo, I have removed the bottom-hinged cabinet compartment to reveal the cabinet interior:

View attachment 39455

I would like to install the propane control panel where marked in the third photo, adjacent to the range safety bar.

View attachment 39456

I like the efficiency of this arrangement, but I do not know how I can run the sensor wiring from the cabinet forward of the range to the cabinet aft of the range, due to the structure under the sole. The hole in the bottom of the forward cabinet goes into an apparently inaccessible compartment outboard of the bilge. Installing the sensor, and running the wiring at the opposite (aft) end of the "trough" doesn't work because the lowest part of the icebox blocks that area.

Without removing the sole in the galley, is there any reasonable way to run wiring from the forward cabinet to the aft/sink/icebox cabinet? The wiring connector requires an opening approx 3/8"x3/4" in order to pass through.

My PO replaced the OEM CNG stove with a Force10 propane stove. He installed the sensor control unit in a small square wood-framed panel above the sink (did a trash can go there originally?). He then easily ran all the wires back to the propane tank via the cockpit lazarette.

 

[peaman]

My PO replaced the OEM CNG stove with a Force10 propane stove. He installed the sensor control unit in a small square wood-framed panel above the sink (did a trash can go there originally?). He then easily ran all the wires back to the propane tank via the cockpit lazarette.

The location of the control unit is not an issue. Where did your PO place the sensor which detects the presense of propane vapor in the event of a leak? My selected control panel includes a sensor which should be located where propane vapors would accumulate in the event of a leak. I figured the trough below the range, but outboard of the toe-kick below the range, would be an ideal location (see my first photo, above).

 

[nquigley]

The location of the control unit is not an issue. Where did your PO place the sensor which detects the presence of propane vapor in the event of a leak? My selected control panel includes a sensor which should be located where propane vapors would accumulate in the event of a leak. I figured the trough below the range, but outboard of the toe-kick below the range, would be an ideal location (see my first photo, above).

I finally got back to the boat today - first time in 2 weeks. Yes, my propane sensor is also in the well under the stove.

 

[peaman]

I finally got back to the boat today - first time in 2 weeks. Yes, my propane sensor is also in the well under the stove.

That's what I finally did. I ran the sensor cable up and outboard to join the propane hose through the original conduit. From there, I will connect the wiring to the solenoid, with the wiring to the controller, and with the factory wiring from the low voltage panel. With luck, the new stove will be operational tomorrow, July 4.