WTB - Reefing car/slide for boom

driftless

Member III
Blogs Author
I'm adding a third reef and wondering if anyone has a reefing car/slide for the t-track on the boom of an E38-200 (probably same size track as other models) they're no longer using. Thanks, Tyler.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If you have a loose-footed mainsail, many of us have dispensed with the track and car and just make a loop/bowline around the boom.

Also note that on my boat, the third reef puts the reef line well past the reach of the boom track.
 

Navman

Member III
If you have a loose-footed mainsail, many of us have dispensed with the track and car and just make a loop/bowline around the boom.

Also note that on my boat, the third reef puts the reef line well past the reach of the boom track.
Christian,
I would be grateful if you could show how you ran your 3rd reef lines. I just had a sail made with 3 reef points and am trying to decide where and how to run them. I am leaning toward a cheek block on the boom for the clew downhaul & running the line up to the mast where there would be a turning block leading it to the deck and the mast collar. Is this how you ran yours?
Thank in Advance,
 

jtsai

Member III
My 2nd reef set up using bowline loop around the boom does not flatten the main sufficiently (see picture). I have been considering routing the reefing line through a turning block on the car/track so when I am at the mast puffing and huffing, the reefing line exerts downward force instead of pulling the sail aft.

Routing the reefing system to the cockpit will provide some mechanical advantage but does not address the acute angle of the reefing line from the reefing grommet to the end of the boom. What am I missing?
 

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bsangs

Old Newbie
If you search this site with terms like 'reefing lines' you will find quite a few helpful threads.
Here is just one of many: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/reefing-line-leads-video.11276/

This is a classic situation where there are several "right" ways to do it. The factory way is just one of them.
That's my Friday Special Opinion, half off, only one cent.
The video linked in that old thread is marked as "Private" and can't be viewed, unfortunately.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Well, Rats.
And that happens too often with external links, still and video. The "internet" can be helpful, but also an impossible beast to cage.
(Damned good thing that we have Sean to guard our perimeter, all the time....!)
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
My 2nd reef set up using bowline loop around the boom does not flatten the main sufficiently (see picture). I have been considering routing the reefing line through a turning block on the car/track so when I am at the mast puffing and huffing, the reefing line exerts downward force instead of pulling the sail aft.

Routing the reefing system to the cockpit will provide some mechanical advantage but does not address the acute angle of the reefing line from the reefing grommet to the end of the boom. What am I missing?
Release the Vang and Mainsheet to the let the aft end of the boom sky when pulling in the reef line. This will get the clew end very close to the boom.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Jeff T.,
I think Grant has the answer: Release vang, crank harder.

Don (Navman),
Since we only have two internal reef lines, as wind came up I would formerly re-rig the reef lines for second and third reefs, giving up the first reef (which just lies there when the second reef is put in). Kind of a chore in a seaway. Now the largest mainsail possible is the second reef.

I subsequently came to prefer using a scrap of line to make a "permanent" first reef. That means the first reef is always in, and requires no winch or gear. The second and third reefs use the internal lines, and the largest mainsail is first-reefed. But the lashing is easy to untie to permit full sail.

Note that to use a third reef with the two-line internal system, the third-reef line needs to be longer than usual, since when you hoist the full sail, with the third reef attached, it has a long way to go. A new reef line is no doubt required.

FWIW, my use of the third reef is declining. I find its zone of usefulness narrow. Two reefs removes 50 percent of my mainsail. When that becomes overpowered I now find it easier to just furl the main, since the boat does so well under jib alone, even in gale conditions.

Re external boom gear specifically for a third reef--seems to me a bit complicated, since it would have to lead back, and the line would be very long. Such a system of three reef lines would permit choice of full mainsail, but in third-reef conditions that doesn't come up.

first reef lashed.jpg
First reef lashed (to free lines for 2nd and 3rd reefs)
 
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driftless

Member III
Blogs Author
This is all well and good There are many discussion of reefing systems on the forum. A moderator may wish to move the above discussion out of the "for sale and wanted" section.
My initial post still stands. Since many of you seem to no longer use your reefing cars perhaps you have one to part with?
 

Navman

Member III
I like the "abandoning" of the first reef idea! Thank you! You just saved me a lot of time and $$$$. Simple is almost always better. I know what I am doing tomorrow!
Thanks Christian !
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
I purchased one these when my original shattered during an accidental gybe. Check your track size this is a 1", bur guessing there may be others available. But as noted by others I now prefer the loop/bowline method.

 

driftless

Member III
Blogs Author
I have a shelf foot main.
Just need the bail, no block.

1650055178780.png
I had assumed it was 1 1/4" track like the rest of the boat (and what Schaefer seems to spec for >30' boats) but will measure next time I'm at the yard. Was just hoping that since so many seem to no longer use them I could find one used instead of buying new.
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
I had assumed it was 1 1/4" track like the rest of the boat
Yours may be 1 1/4", wise to measure. Even when not used for the intended purpose bails at the end of the boom come in handy so I'm guessing most will hold on to them.
 
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