YAHOO! Yet Another Haul Out Outline

[vanilladuck]

Having just had the E32-3 for a few months, I've only sailed her a handful of times and fixed a few things (eg. Boom Rehab and Stuffing Box, etc). After officially re-christening the boat this weekend, we took her out for a sunset sail around the SF Bay and the main sail got stuck on the way down. Just below the lower spreader there is a junction of two sail tracks which became misaligned by a few millimeters while underway. Upon ascending the mast, I found a screw in the upper track spinning freely with no purchase on threads behind the track. Maybe a backing plate fell off? or the hole is actually stripped? <shrug>


She's due for bottom paint and standing rigging inspection/replacement. I'm thinking to go ahead and take the plunge to haul out. Following is a full list of everything I'm thinking. Would love to hear any suggestions, thoughts or questions:

• Below Waterline & Hull
  • Bottom paint
  • Repaint transom
  • Wetsand (or preferred method) above waterline to remove scratches, old name decal, smudges, and shadows (note: there is discoloration on the bow above the waterline from a previous hull repair); how to protect this after?
  • Replace ALL seacocks & inspect thru-hulls for integrity
  • Remove redundant seacock in head (if appropriate, I’m still trying to understand why there are two inline to the sink)
  • Replace propeller (Bronze 2-blade 13-diameter 18-pitch)
  • Re-caulk hull-strut interface
  • Install zinc on strut (there isn't one currently)
  • Check/replace cutlass bearing
  • Check rudder packing gland and rudder play/alignment
  • Replace stuffing box (or at least the hose and clamps connecting to stern tube)
  • Clean up connection of transmission to prop shaft; add safety wires to set screws holding shaft
• Insides
  • Replace marine toilet with updated Jabsco and associated sani hoses
• Standing Rigging
  • Replace/tune standing rigging
  • Replace halyards
    • What are other options for the cable-to-rope jib/main halyards? Can this be transformed into all rope? Sheaves need to change?
    • Replace spinnaker and spinnaker topping lift line halyards
  • Repair/tune hydraulic backstay
  • Fit/Install Tides Marine Sail Track on mast
  • Return rigid vang to traditional boomvang -OR- adjust rigid vang to have more upward spring pressure
  • Re-install traditional topping lift (depends on how rigid vang can be tuned)
• Electrical Aloft
  • Replace masthead light with LED
  • Replace foredeck/steaming light with LED
  • Replace radio antennae with updated version?
  • Replace wind vane with NMEA-capable version? (current is SeaTalk)

 

[Loren Beach]

I am used to seeing Ericson's from that era with a Kenyon spar w/internal slug track. Your boat has an external track, in two pieces??

 

[vanilladuck]

Loren - the track is nested into the mast but protrudes a little as you can see a wee better from this photo:


It's separated into multiple sections (maybe 3-4?) with screws just above/below each junction of sections. This is what's making me think of installing the Tides Marine sailtrack, which would be a single continuous track, no screws to fail, higher quality stainless lugs. Unfortunately, I didn't go up with my phone/camera so I don't have any close-up photos.

 

[Christian Williams]

The Tides track is glorious luxury and costs less than a home 50-gallon water heater which fails at 6 p.m with three women waiting to take showers and which although only 12 years old is a discontinued model for which there are no replacement parts. Apologies if the comparison is over-specific but I have my reasons.

 

[goldenstate]

• Below Waterline & Hull
  • Bottom paint $1400 to $1800 including haul out in SF Bay.
  • Repaint transom Could do at the dock.
  • Wetsand (or preferred method) above waterline to remove scratches, old name decal, smudges, and shadows (note: there is discoloration on the bow above the waterline from a previous hull repair); how to protect this after? Could do at the dock. Easier out of water. Heat gun to peel old decals and name.
  • Replace ALL seacocks & inspect thru-hulls for integrity Inspect first, then make decisions about replacement.
  • Remove redundant seacock in head (if appropriate, I’m still trying to understand why there are two inline to the sink)
  • Replace propeller (Bronze 2-blade 13-diameter 18-pitch) How come? What is the marginal improvement with proposed new prop?
  • Re-caulk hull-strut interface Inspect first.
  • Install zinc on strut (there isn't one currently) $5 item
  • Check/replace cutlass bearing Inspect.
  • Check rudder packing gland and rudder play/alignment
  • Replace stuffing box (or at least the hose and clamps connecting to stern tube) Need to pull prop shaft for this. Time or money.
  • Clean up connection of transmission to prop shaft; add safety wires to set screws holding shaft Could do at the dock.
• Insides
  • Replace marine toilet with updated Jabsco and associated sani hoses Could do at the dock.
• Standing Rigging
  • Replace/tune standing rigging
  • Replace halyards
    • What are other options for the cable-to-rope jib/main halyards? All-rope. Can this be transformed into all rope? Yes. Sheaves need to change? No.
    • Replace spinnaker and spinnaker topping lift line halyards Yes, easier with mast out.
  • Repair/tune hydraulic backstay
  • Fit/Install Tides Marine Sail Track on mast
  • Return rigid vang to traditional boomvang -OR- adjust rigid vang to have more upward spring pressure
  • Re-install traditional topping lift (depends on how rigid vang can be tuned)
• Electrical Aloft Yes, all easier with the mast out.
  • Replace masthead light with LED
  • Replace foredeck/steaming light with LED
  • Replace radio antennae with updated version?
  • Replace wind vane with NMEA-capable version? (current is SeaTalk)

 

[vanilladuck]

Thanks for the quick notes Tom. Neglected to mention, I'm attempting to get the boat ready for long cruising.

Replace propeller (Bronze 2-blade 13-diameter 18-pitch) How come? What is the marginal improvement with proposed new prop?

These are the measurements of the existing prop. It has been partially consumed by galvanic corrosion and was noted to need replacing in the marine survey:

Re-caulk hull-strut interface Inspect first.

Also noted in marine survey as needing attention

Replace ALL seacocks & inspect thru-hulls for integrity Inspect first, then make decisions about replacement.

There is one seacock with broken handle (sink and toilet flushing raw water in the head) and all of the others are rusted but functional. Maybe I'm being a worrywart, but I'd like to make sure they don't corrode further. Oh this reminds me, currently no seastrainer on the engine raw water pickup. I suppose this could be done in the water assuming functional seacock.

Replace stuffing box (or at least the hose and clamps connecting to stern tube) Need to pull prop shaft for this. Time or money.

Again, I'm probably being a worrywart, but I've noticed some minor rust on the clamps and they are of the wrong type (slotted instead of smooth). I figure the hose hasn't been replaced since the boat was built.

Replace marine toilet with updated Jabsco and associated sani hoses Could do at the dock.

Absolutely and I might take this on myself after the seacock in the head is replaced. When I saw in the replacement procedure "Step 1) Close seacock" I stopped pretty quickly

 

[Christian Williams]

Re long cruises, give some thought to the fuel tank and filter (both are probably fine). If there's an inspection port on the tank, have a look inside to see the level of gunk. If the current fuel level is low, consider pumping out the existing ancient diesel and "throwing it away" (recycling center). Our diesels don';t get used much and the fuel can get very old and is not expensive to replace.

Long cruises agitate the tank and since there is likely a lot of motoring involved, knowledge of the state of the 30-year-old system gives peace of mind.

 

[vanilladuck]

Christian, I recall you had a fuel filter clog up en route to Hawaii on your E32-3 from the same circumstances you describe above right?

Current fuel level is ~half a tank -- about 11-12 gallons. Does this fall in the range of 'low'? What would be the process of pumping it out?

 

[fool]

Fuel inspection port (you'll need Flash Player enabled to view the demo)

Seabuilt - Access Plate Systems

Or if you have Christian's ambition...

Regarding thru-hulls, if PVC replace with Marlon. If metal and not grounded with a bonding system... well... inspect for sure, Marlon is sounding pretty good as it doesn't require bonding.

If the prop is suspect, I'd suspect thru-hulls too. I'm sure there will be some who feel bonding thru-hulls isn't required and shouldn't be done. They will be partially correct, that is, if it isn't done properly. Was that the sound of a can of worms opening?

https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/BondingSystems138_05.pdf (slow to load, be patient.)

And as long as I'm stealing the thread for a conversation on corrosion...

Don't be fooled into thinking you'll be protected from corrosion 100% by adding a galvanic isolator, although that's better than nothing and pretty easy to install. They're good for up to 1.5 v DC, which is enough, some of the time. (If you go this route make sure to get a "fail safe" unit. They'll still fail but will only fail open, failing closed is not an option.)

An isolation transformer is the way to go to protect your and other's boats from stray currents. Sadly they are about the size and weight of a 12v group 27 lead acid battery. When wired correctly they completely isolate shore power to create an independent power source onboard the boat. Side benefits include a kinder and gentler power source for sensitive electronics and prevention of ESD (Electric Shock Drowning). Contrary to popular myth, they don't cost a million boat bucks either.

Isolation Transformers - Seaworthy Magazine - BoatUS

An isolation transformer makes your boat shockproof for swimmers, prevents galvanic corrosion, stops reversed shorepower polarity, and gives you clean AC power for sensitive electronics …

www.boatus.com

.

And now back to your regularly scheduled programming... where were we. Oh yeah, haul-out, have fun!

Max

 

[Christian Williams]

Bryan, 10 gallons is about $50 of fuel discarded ( I threw away 30 gallons). You can pump it out with a standard oil-change manual vacuum pump, which is a handy thing to own in any case.

 

[nquigley]

I'm also planning my projects for a haul-out - first time since the inspection when buying my boat 3.5 years ago.
At the risk of waking the ghost of the cutlass bearing replacement thread, can anyone tell me where to buy the cutlass bearing for a 32-3 (and what P/N to order)? Also - is it necessary to drop the rudder in order to pull the prop shaft on the 32-3?
I won't be able to drop the rudder, so that may make my cutlass bearing question moot for now...
Thanks!

 

[Sailingfun]

My 0.2 cents input:

• Below Waterline & Hull
  • Bottom paint (San Rafael Harbor or Napa Marine if you want to do for yourself, Diablo Boat Work at Bethel Island have the best prices for bottom paint.
  • Wetsand (or preferred method) above waterline to remove scratches, old name decal, smudges, and shadows (note: there is discoloration on the bow above the waterline from a previous hull repair); how to protect this after? Easily do for yourself
  • Replace ALL seacocks & inspect thru-hulls for integrity (Inspect first, replace if is necessary. Best prices are at Blue Pelican, Alameda)
  • Replace propeller (Bronze 2-blade 13-diameter 18-pitch) Really?? Too much money involved, high grade of doing something wrong
  • Re-caulk hull-strut interface. Use dolphinate
  • Replace stuffing box (or at least the hose and clamps connecting to stern tube) PSS system
• Insides
  • Replace marine toilet with updated Jabsco and associated sani hoses Smelly job. Good luck! I replaced for a compost one... no more hoses...
• Standing Rigging
  • Replace/tune standing rigging
  • Replace halyards
    • What are other options for the cable-to-rope jib/main halyards? Yes, mauripro can prepare for you and have the exact dimension online, expensive but clean job
    • Can this be transformed into all rope? Yes, I replaced for Vectra/Dyneema type
    • Sheaves need to change? Just if they're on bad shape or broke
  • Repair/tune hydraulic backstay
  • Fit/Install Tides Marine Sail Track on the mast. I tried on my E27 and cannot because the mast gate is below boom level. Tides Marine has 3 very strict rules to be able to install. Check first.
  • Return rigid vang to traditional boomvang -OR- adjust rigid vang to have more upward spring pressure. I installed boomkicker on my E27. Very good result
• Electrical Aloft
  • Replace masthead light with LED. Be sure you do not install one of those chinese type. Your VHF will jump 2 db of noise automatically.
  • Replace foredeck/steaming light with LED Same suggestion
  • Replace radio antennae with updated version? Humm... a VHF antenna does not change on years so if is not on horrible condition, just keep it.
  • Replace wind vane with NMEA-capable version? (current is SeaTalk) From seatalk you can install a converter and go directly to NMEA2000.

 

[G Kiba]

Bryan, October-November is the nicest time to sail on SF bay. Warm, less fog and less ducking in the lee of Angel Is. If you are new to sailing on the bay, this is the best time of year! Save all that work for the winter.

 

[Sailingfun]

Bottom paint in December or January?? not a good idea... at bay area, we have maybe one more month to paint (until Indian summer) then, it's gone... short days and the very humid temperature does not match with paint...