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Yanmar 2gm20f Fuel lift pump failure

frick

Member III
I had a very unfortunate thing happen...

When I went to pull my boat for the winter, My Yanmar 2gm20f did not turn over. I thought my battery was low. So I took off the cover, and through the compression release and turned the engine over. Out of the crack case vent tube poured oils and diesel. Holy crow...

I pulled the dip stick and out poured oil and fuel... oh no...

After some research, it seems that my Fuel Lift Pump diagram has a hole in it which allows fuel to fill the engine block.

The greatest danger in this situation is a run away diesel. I was lucky when it started to run away I was down below and was able to put my hand over the air intake...

So my next project is to replace the lift pump, change my oil again... and clean my bilge.

Rick+
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Get rid of the mechanical lift pump

The failure mode on mechanical lift pumps is to in one way or another destroy the engine.

Go with an electrical lift pump and put a plate over the mechanical one. Cheaper than the Yanmar part, eliminates one cause of engine destruction makes bleeding the engine about 300 times easier, and well that is enough reasons for this morning....

Guy
:)
 

907Juice

Continuously learning
Now you tell me!!

I had the same problem and replaced the lift pump last fall. That thing wasn't expensive but it wasn't cheap either...
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
The failure mode on mechanical lift pumps is to in one way or another destroy the engine.

Go with an electrical lift pump and put a plate over the mechanical one. Cheaper than the Yanmar part, eliminates one cause of engine destruction makes bleeding the engine about 300 times easier, and well that is enough reasons for this morning....

Guy
:)

Guy, do these hockey puck type mechanical pumps have that characteristic failure mode? This is on a Universal 5432.

20160715_135727-small.jpg
 

cooper999

Member II
Hi Guy,

How difficult of a job is this (removing mechanical pump/plating over the void)? I've discovered that we have a 6-8 psi Facet electric pump, which is installed in series with our mechanical lift pump. Beta Marine recommends bypassing the mechanical pump, and if not, an electric psi rating of no more than 4-5 psi. This concerns me as we'd like to avoid engine failure.:) I've winterized for the year-I assume this wouldn't be an issue with removing the mechanical pump, though.

The failure mode on mechanical lift pumps is to in one way or another destroy the engine.

Go with an electrical lift pump and put a plate over the mechanical one. Cheaper than the Yanmar part, eliminates one cause of engine destruction makes bleeding the engine about 300 times easier, and well that is enough reasons for this morning....

Guy
:)
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Oh yeah

You could just leave the old pump in place and bypass it. When we do new installs we like to put a plate over it, but you don't have to, just bypass the whole thing. Project done, you don't even have to install anything. Just some new hose!

Guy
:)

The hockey puck style ones are rotary vane pumps they are less likely to fail, but do occasionally blow a seal and do something similar as the diaphragm type. They work like the raw water pump on the engine same tech.

Guy
:)
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
You could just leave the old pump in place and bypass it. When we do new installs we like to put a plate over it, but you don't have to, just bypass the whole thing. Project done, you don't even have to install anything. Just some new hose!

Guy
:)

The hockey puck style ones are rotary vane pumps they are less likely to fail, but do occasionally blow a seal and do something similar as the diaphragm type. They work like the raw water pump on the engine same tech.

Guy
:)
I have a Yanmar 1GM with one of those mechanical pumps. Do you have any recommendations for selecting the correct electric pump for this application?
 

cooper999

Member II
That seems like a very straightforward task. ls there a need to plug the hose fittings on the bypassed mechanical pump? Please forgive my naivety.

You could just leave the old pump in place and bypass it. When we do new installs we like to put a plate over it, but you don't have to, just bypass the whole thing. Project done, you don't even have to install anything. Just some new hose!

Guy
:)
 

cooper999

Member II
Awesome-thanks again, Guy! Helps to keep the mechanical pump installed in case of need of a backup to boot.

No need to plug anything up, just disconnect the hoses.

https://www.amazon.com/FACET-SOLID-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YJGH8A4WPFHKV6HRVQY4

Or my all time favorite

https://www.amazon.com/6-5-8PSI-CAR...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YJGH8A4WPFHKV6HRVQY4

I had one of the second ones last over 40 years.... On too many boats and pieces of heavy and not so heavy equipment to count.

Guy
:)
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Awesome-thanks again, Guy! Helps to keep the mechanical pump installed in case of need of a backup to boot.

But... Leaving the mechanical pump installed and operating dry... It will be worn out shortly.
Always best to arrange the tank, or at least a day-tank, to gravity feed to the motor. Life is too short for purging diesel systems.
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
snip ...

The hockey puck style ones are rotary vane pumps they are less likely to fail, but do occasionally blow a seal and do something similar as the diaphragm type. They work like the raw water pump on the engine same tech.

Guy
:)

Thanks, Guy. I have a spare one like that, too. Painted navy blue. I'll look for a case drain on the mount. Study it a little bit.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Just a heads up. One of the pumps Guy recommended is 24 volt. Make sure you get the correct voltage.

I think you can also find places that sell them cheaper.
 
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