Returned to sailing in 2016 after a 20 year absence.
Continued from Part 2.
Thought I'd post the final chapter of my engine panel upgrade. I finished the wiring back in May and have been happy with the results—mainly, no more surprises during engine start.
I had to design a new spray cover because I “flipped” the original panel upside down (to put the gauges at the bottom where they are easier to see). As Loren pointed out in a comment, you can't use the original T-shaped cover upside down, or it will trap water.
The solution was a 3-piece spray cover: 1) a U-shaped piece with no bottom edge to provide drainage, 2) the upside-down mounted T-shaped piece, and 3) a hinged cover to keep water and dirt from getting in there in the first place.
The panels are 3/16” plexi (vs the original 1/8” plexi) that I had cut at a local plastics shop. The hinge is stainless and without holes (so I could drill my own holes in various sizes, where I needed them) from McMaster Carr.
The cover came out great, but the engineering of these one-off projects is always unforgiving. I originally had a thick, rubberized waterproof cover over the ignition key slot. The thick cover prevented the new hinged door from opening far enough, so I had to remove it. If I’d mounted the key-switch and USB charger a half-inch higher, I’d be able to open the cover fully, but as is, it opens only about 2/3, but far enough for easy switch access. Time to call this one good-enough......
Thought I'd post the final chapter of my engine panel upgrade. I finished the wiring back in May and have been happy with the results—mainly, no more surprises during engine start.
I had to design a new spray cover because I “flipped” the original panel upside down (to put the gauges at the bottom where they are easier to see). As Loren pointed out in a comment, you can't use the original T-shaped cover upside down, or it will trap water.
The solution was a 3-piece spray cover: 1) a U-shaped piece with no bottom edge to provide drainage, 2) the upside-down mounted T-shaped piece, and 3) a hinged cover to keep water and dirt from getting in there in the first place.
The panels are 3/16” plexi (vs the original 1/8” plexi) that I had cut at a local plastics shop. The hinge is stainless and without holes (so I could drill my own holes in various sizes, where I needed them) from McMaster Carr.
The cover came out great, but the engineering of these one-off projects is always unforgiving. I originally had a thick, rubberized waterproof cover over the ignition key slot. The thick cover prevented the new hinged door from opening far enough, so I had to remove it. If I’d mounted the key-switch and USB charger a half-inch higher, I’d be able to open the cover fully, but as is, it opens only about 2/3, but far enough for easy switch access. Time to call this one good-enough......
