E32-3 Fuel System Refit with a Racor 500

Intro​

When I started thinking about the fuel system on Rumour, I realized there were a few things to consider.



I heard a number of recommendations to remove the old metal fuel supply lines and check or replace the old Racor 200 series primary fuel filter/water separator assembly. Both are susceptible to hairline fractures over time from engine vibration and these little breaks will allow air into the fuel lines which causes problems for the the M-25 diesel engine.

Those suggestions were often followed by another suggestion: the Parker/Racor 500 fuel filter/water separator. The 500 boasts an easier to change filter element, being inserted from the top instead of spinning on from the bottom. The elements are also less expensive. When I tried to find specifics on installation of the 500 on the E32, I didn't find much. Below are at least two mounting options.

One section of fuel hose--from the existing lift pump to the engine block secondary filter--was pinched in a hose clamp holding the heat exchanger. Since the M-25 sips fuel very slowly, I can't imagine a pinch in the line would restrict flow enough to cause any noticeable degradation of performance. It still seemed prudent to remedy this configuration.

I had no idea when the last time the fuel filters were changed. Before starting this project, I decided to drain the bowl on the 220R primary filter and practice bleeding the fuel lines. The collection bowl was nearly full of water. I guess my timing for this project was pretty perfect. And, no, I don't want to think about what would have happened if I had waited.

If you'd like to read more on thought process, check out:

• https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/installing-a-new-racor-500-on-an-e32.18468/
• https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/multistage-diesel-filtration.18417/

Planning & Parts​

I spent the first few days scribbling chicken-scratch on notepads, taking photos, reading Nigel Calder and ABYC H-33 standards, and learning about NPT fittings. I wanted to make sure I was doing everything safely. Along the way I learned things, such as how NPT fittings form a seal by compressing threads against one another, which is why the threads are graduated in diameter.

Below is a finalized list of used parts if I were to start over. The reader gains the benefit of not spending money on my mistakes, experiments, or unused parts.


Additionally, I had some things sitting around, including some oil absorbent pads and #8 self-taping stainless screws and matching washers.

Mounting the 500​

I didn't realize how large the Racor 500 is compared to the 200 Series. As I unboxed the contraption, all I could think was, "where is this thing gonna fit in the engine bay??" Most E32-3's have the primary filter and lift pump mounted on the port side of the engine bay just below the aft quarter-berth and along side the stuffing box.



So, I tried reusing and extending the existing mounting bracket that's there. I picked up from 1/8" x 1" aluminum bars to cut and drill holes for an extension. I don't work with metal much, but owning a boat is definitely changing that. I think the bracket turned out really well.



Then I noticed how difficult it would be to access the stuffing box and I recalled how the previous primary filter got in the way the last time I was wrenching on the stuffing box. And, it was about half the size. I'm one of those hold-outs won't move to a PSS. If I ever have a problem with the traditional stuffing box, I figure I have a better chance at fixing it in the water over a PSS. If your E32 has this bracket and you have a PSS, this method may work just fine.

I looked around for another mounting position.. above the engine, not enough clearance. Starboard lazerette, long fuel lines and maybe more than a few feet of lift for the pump. Under the sink, just felt weird. Finally, I settled on building a little backboard off the platform where the water heater rests. After another trip to Home Cheapo, I had some stainless L-brackets and a nice piece of 1x8 oak board. Also picked up some tee-nuts which match the 5/16" bolts with coarse threads. I chose oak because it's a heavy dense wood and cheaper than teak, esp. since this is in the engine bay.



The tee-nuts will make it extremely easy to unmount the filter in the future for whatever reason comes up. And, since the backboard is braced on the bottom and one side, it's incredibly sturdy. This moves the 500 back in the engine bay, allowing ample access with wrenches to the stuffing box. You can see the new backboard location with the old mount in place here:



The sun was down and it was getting cold below the waterline in the boat. Satisfied with my miniscule exploratory foray into fabrication, I packed up to return and continue another day.

Mounting the Lift Pump & Valve​

I rebuilt the fuel system in pieces. I held the shutoff valve and lift pump in place to eyeball adequate spacing for the fuel hoses and fittings and made some approximate pencil marks on the fiberglass side of the engine bay under the quarter-berth. Then I mounted each piece and extended the fuel lines as I went.

This was a good opportunity to practice drilling and landing self-taping screws in fiberglass. Here's my general process for #8 screws:

1. Mark the exact location of the hole
2. Drill a pilot hole with a 9/64" bit
3. Countersink the top of the hole with a 3/8" bit, very lightly until the clearcoat is removed
4. Squeeze some 3M marine silicon caulk into the hole
5. Land the screw with a screwdriver by hand--not a drill--don't overtighten

If I went slowly and carefully, this kept the gelcoat from cracking and the silicon will seal the hole and help hold the screw in place. The sealing probably isn't very important in the engine bay, but it's good practice for putting screws on the outside of the boat in the future. The photo here is an example pilot hole with countersinking. Not a moon crater

Plumbing​

Putting the fittings together was easier than I thought it would be. I was sizing everything to 5/16" inner diameter fuel hose. While the Racor 500 can handle 60 GPH flow of diesel fuel, the application on an E32 makes for a much much much slower rate of flow. So, it's ports are threaded for larger connections. The Racor 500 inlet and outlet ports needed 3/4 SAE threads converted to 1/4" NPT. Then 1/4" NPT converted 5/16" barbs. The barbs would be secured to the hoses using the solid stainless steel hose clamps. It's important to use the non-slotted kind with knurled edges as they won't cut into the hoses nor will they break due to weakness around the slots. I've also heard that using double clamps at every connection is a good idea. However, the barbs on the fittings weren't long enough for this.

The order of things is important as well. The Facet lift pump has the capability to stir fuel and create air bubbles if allowed to push fuel from the tank to the filter. The instructions suggest instead to place the pump after the primary filter and before the secondary filter on the engine.



As I learned, NPT fittings form a seal as the flanks of the graduated diameter threads compress against one another. The general process was to turn the fitting into the starting threads until it stops with light hand pressure. Then use a wrench to turn 1-2 more times. Maybe three... I lost count. Wait, how many turns?.. It's requiring a lot of torque... to keep turning this thing... but I need the 90-degree barb fitting to face the other way. Phew! Made it. Glad I put that Permatex #2 sealant on the threads as that will probably help ensure things all sealed up.

I used the rubber wrapped stainless wire clamps to hold the longer portions of hose in place.

Priming and Bleeding​

The instructions on the 500 tell you: fill the filter with clean diesel to prime everything. Indeed, the lift pump didn't draw any fuel through the dry system until I filled the element vessel up. Before tightening the t-bar on the top, I rubbed some clean diesel on the two o-rings -- one of the lid and the other on the t-bar.

Once the system was sealed up, I ran the lift pump while cracking the bleed nut on top of the injection pump on the engine. I believe it's also possible to bleed from the secondary filter, but it's difficult to reach and I don't mind cleaning up a little diesel.

I found a nifty trick to turn on the lift pump without leaving the engine bay. I used a test lead with alligator clips to temporarily connect the starter + post with the alternator exciter lead. On my boat the purple wire which comes out of the trailer harness to the alternator is also joined with the positive lead to the lift pump.

Start Your Engine!​

After bleeding the engine, it started right up. I let it run at the dock for a few minutes. Then lashed two spring lines and put the engine in forward to make sure it could handle a little load. Still, nothing like going out for a sail the first few times after a project like this. I stuck my head into the lazarette a couple times just to make sure I didn't see any diesel.