Holding tank inspection plate

I'm about to go ahead and order a new holding tank for
my E38. Any comments on getting an inspection plate
installed at the manufacturer?

The thought of having a six inch hole in the top of
that thing (a) makes me worry about yet another hole
for odors to escape from and (b) G*d help me if I
would ever have need to open it. (Wouldn't it be
easier to scuttle the boat, get the insurance, and buy
a boat that doesn't have a blocked holding tank.)

But seriously, is there a convincing argument for
getting one? The previous owner seems to have made it
through 17 years without one.

Thanks,

Andy

Inspection plate in holding tank.

Andy, Do consider adding the inspection/access plate. Its presence will not add to the possibility of odors creeping out such as to offset the value of having the ability to cleanse out the tank with a garden hose nozzle from time to time. One good way to keep head odors at bay is to use an enzinme treatment. Odorlos brand head treatment outgasses non-odor bearing nitrogen and is quite effective and economical. Follow the directions on the container and you'll be sold.

Regards, Glyn Judson

Yes to Inspection Ports

When I originally wrote this reply (earlier this evening), I was not sure about the idea - however now after having thought about it (and having installed the new port-less tank) - I've changed my mind (and am editing my reply).

I would (as Glyn has) suggest you get the inspection port. I would also suggest that you have Ronco install the elbows, so they're fixed, and part of the tank. The port will not pass odors (use teflon tape on the threads if you're worried about it).

Many people would say - "...you're talking about sewage in there...why on earth would you want to have access to the tank??" My response is this: It's exactly BECAUSE it's sewage that you want access to the tank. If you ever have a problem, clog, etc - you'll have the *option* to access it. Without the port, you're left with very few options.

With an inspection port, you'll be able to do a yearly flushing of the tank (as Glyn has suggested) to keep it clear and clean. I've read elsewhere (from the "Head Mistress" on another site) that this is an excellent idea - and while it may not seem appealing to many people - clearing out the system on an annual basis is the best long term care you could give it - and will guarantee it's operation when you're using it.

So what about my new port-less tank? I'm calling Ronco tomorrow and ordering a second new tank - one with an inspection port and fixed elbows. Hopefully I can get partial credit on my unused-installed-only-once first tank.

Get the port - do the cleanings - you'll never have a problem with the system, and there will be zero odor.

Thanks,

[Edited by Sean Engle on 03-06-2001 at 01:52 AM]

Andy, My E26 came to me with an obstructed hose to macerator pump without an inspection port. I really wish that I had a port to see what I was up against. After removing, inspecting the macerator pump (it was in good operating condition) I backflushed by attaching a freshwater hose fitting to the 1-1/2" discharge hose on the tank. Reassembled and it worked fine. I flush the tank with fresh water after every other pumping or ejecting cycle and have not had a problem since. Also, I concur with Glyn - Odorlos is a great product - you'll not be disappointed with it (it's carried by West Marine and most good chandleries). Bob Ells

Ronco

Just spoke with Scott at Ronco - he says they do not mount the elbows for you - that they'll supply them if you want, but that you have to mount them.

He also said it was easier if I just put the port in mine myself - which should be easy enough to do. Besides, this way, I won't have to pull the darn thing out again!

Thanks,
//sse

So Andy -

What did you decide to do on the inspection port? Ronco sent me a free one - and I'm going to install it any time now....

Thanks,
//sse

I put one in my bow water tank so that I could clean out the slime - piece of cake. Now I am going to put one in the holding tank - one with a clear top so that I can check the level.

Clear port? On a holding tank? I don't think I'll go that far... I like the port, but I don't think I want to see it "in action" unless I really need to...

Well it's not as though you are going to see anything unless you lift the v-berth mattress and a board and use a flashlight! How else are you going to know the level in the tank unless you install a mechanical gauge, which means another hole in the tank and something else to break?

BTW, how do I get a promotion from "junior member" on this forum? I'm about to turn 50 and don't feel so "junior" anymore.

How about "Not-Such-a-Junior Member"? instead?

Member ranks are set by the number of posts. I'll adjust the titles...

The point on the holding tank is well understood..... Did you put the port in yourself?

So far I have installed a port only on the bow water tank; the process for the holding tank should be the same. I used a 6" Beckson port with a screw-in plate. I put the plate frame on the tank, drew a circle, and cut it out with a saber saw. I then drilled out the holes for the six screws and bedded the frame with marine silicone. Took only a few minutes.

Also, can I (you) change my username to "Geoff Johnson"? Thanks. (This is a pretty cool site - did you put it together yourself?)

It is interesting to study the pictures of your head rehab. I went through a similar project on my 1985 32-3, with one major difference - my PO had keep his holding tank in his attic so the boat was not unduly funkified when I bought it. Changing the hoses in the tight confines of a 32-3 is a little like trying to rig a ship in a bottle. On the 32-3, the holding tank is under the v-berth and is more vertical than yours. Also the interior space is gelcoated, so there is no need to paint the surfaces as you have done. With three y-valves I replumbed the head so that I can discharge overboard, discharge into the holding tank, discharge the holding tank overboard with the bulkhead pump, or get pumped out by a shoreside facility.

I can do the same; overboard, in the box, or in the box and overboard or pumpout. I'm down to doing the wood in the head and repainting the mount - then mount the new head - and I'll finally be finished (with that part of it).

My PO left the holding tank half full (and the reefer half full) when he turned over the boat to me - what an animal!

Anyhow - things are improving - and I'll be updating the project part of the site soon.

//sse

More on Ports...

Originally posted by Geoff Johnson
I put one in my bow water tank so that I could clean out the slime - piece of cake. Now I am going to put one in the holding tank - one with a clear top so that I can check the level.

Click to expand...

Uh....just an update. I've changed my mind again, and have followed your path, Geoff. I bought a clear port to put into my 6" Beckson yesterday. Like you, I guess it's easlier to take a quick glance to determine how full it is, than to learn the hard way.

You installed a port (stainless?) into your watertank? How did you cut into the tank (metal bit on a Sabre saw?)? That's something I need to do as well...

Thanks,
//sse

For the water tank I used a 6" Beckson and cut the hole with a sabre saw (after using the port as a template to drawn an outline of the opening). I sealed the port with silicone and put in the six screws.

I got a 4" Beckson for the holding tank (the 32-3 tank is more vertical than yours and has less room). Since I don't want to remove the tank (again), I plan to cut the hole with a hand saw as the sabre saw won't fit.

Sean, make sure you got the Beckson with the screw-in lid and not the pry out kind!

Holding tank inspection port (con't)

Sean, last weekend I installed my holding tank inspection port using LifeSeal as a sealant, but I noticed tonight that it does not actually stick to the polyethelene tank. A little research suggests that there is almost no adhesive that will stick to this plastic, so that the inspection ports are really relying on the sealant as a gasket only. Did you have better luck with 4200?

3M's 4200

Yes, the 4200 seems to have worked (of course I've not yet tested the tank, um - "live", so....). I used a great deal of it, and had pre-drilled the holes for the port, running the bolts and nuts on when it was still setting up.

It's since fully cured - and appears to be solid.

//sse

So you used bolts . . . I didn't think of that. I just used screws. I just called Ronco to find out what they recommend for a sealant and it recommended butyl rubber. It agrees that no sealant/adhesive with stick to polyethelene, so you want a compound that will remain pliable and move with the tank. Ronco even recommends using butyl rubber over teflon tape when sealing the threads of the fittings.

Point of clarification . . I used the term "over teflon tape" in the sense of "instead of" not "on top of".