Either butyl tape or silicone will work. Folks have their preferences. The advantage of silicone (which is what most production boat windows were done with back in the day) is that it seals well and, if you carefully tape before you remove the window, can be cleaned up--but is wicked if you...
One more reminder, make sure you lead it on the drum the right way. Cam Richards of Pineapple Sails went so far as putting a red sticker on the inside clew foot of all his roller furling jibs that says "WRONG WAY"--because he saw so many jibs come into his shop that had been wound backwards...
I guess this is a preference thing and you already have a cased raft. But I carry a valise below when offshore, because I think it is safer than most on deck arrangements. If you think through the situation you might be in when you need it, then carefully read the directions (unfasten the...
Here are some random observations based on your observations:
1. The leaks you are noticing are not real deal breakers to me. If you own a boat for any length of time you will have leaks and most on an Ericson are easily resolved because the hull to deck seam is not the problem it can be on...
I have been a victim of obsessing over cracks in the keels to hull joint and think, after 40+ years, I have come to some peace. Here are my beliefs about this based on spending way too much money and time on them:
1. Most keel to hull cracks are not serious--though inexperienced surveyors love...
I think the end you are showing is great and I have those on my Tartan and its carbon pole. If you can get those for $200 that is a deal. I think most of the pole stock (carbon and aluminum) is measured by ID, but i could be wrong. As far as tight fit? I would be satisfied with close fit. I...
OK, I was looking at a boat for a friend. I found a possible option in the Great Lakes region and needed to figure what transportation would add to the cost of the boat to get it to the West Coast. So I went on a website for "Moving Boats". My advice: Don't go there. What you will get is...
It is not expensive. You can get black iron pipe fittings at Home Depot or a plumbing supply. You do not want to use galvanized as it produces toxic gases when heated--though I doubt if there is enough to kill you. The hard part would be extracting the flange, but heat, a big vise, patience...
Actually, I think you are right. You could use 1/8" flax if you have a 3/4" shaft. All the hardware is smaller. I was just surprised that Ericson recommended it with a 1" shaft and box.
Gonna hafta haul the boat, I think. You need a new stuffing box hose (and this is NOT the same as exhaust hose). The solution I have used is to make the stuffing box hose shorter--you can cut it with a hack saw-- to expose more of the shaft. You just have to have enough hose to put two...
Here are a few potential solutions to the inspection problem.
1.) I bought a cheap ($60 on Amazon) endoscope for looking at lots of boat things. You need one with a side view camera and illumination--split screen is a nice option. Check the focal length because the very cheap cameras tend to...
I haven't done this yet, but my diesel repair buddy, a professional, says that SS is the way to go--he claims that it rarely clogs like the iron cobbled versions adapted for marine use. The Yanmar factory supplied elbows generally do not clog as much because they are double walled in the...
Some of the feathering props have separately, externally adjustable pitch settings for FWD and Reverse. My Autostream does and I think some of the newer Max props do. I think being externally adjustable (so you can tweak it to perfect without hauling the boat) and being able to set the...
As I am sure you are aware, there is a danger of using the staysail without running backstays engaged properly--if your mast is as thin as mine. I am wondering if the PO figured out that it would be a major PIA and never used them. I can see the sense in a staysail on a 40'+ cruiser making a...