Bow caps again....I know..

[clp]

OK, I've now whined about this bow cap thing until everybody is sick of hearing it, so now a more proactive approach. I was noticing on Todd's blog earlier about the thing, and took note that it looks like cast aluminum, and we all know what generally happens to that method of construction in the marine environment. And Martin's blip about a company named PSC, of which I Googled, and got a hundred crazy hits, none of which appeared to be what I was looking for. (That wasn't a jab at you Martin, more of my ineptitude). So...I tried to find these people to see about securing a mold, because making my own would present little difficulty going that route, but it wouldn't look factory, and I think others would like that to be the case. And IF I had the mold, that looks like Ericson actually made it, as apposed to my form being heated and bent plastic pipe or the such, I kind of caught on to what Martin said about there being a micro-market for the cap. I could not care one iota if I ever made a cent off of the project, that's not the point at all. But I'm wondering as well if there really is others out there that could use them, bearing in mind that I would construct them out of epoxy, glass, etc, to be reasonably tough. Gel coat. Flames too.
Ok, not really flames. But, let the replies of ridicule begin. I can take it. But it was an idea..

 

[Glyn Judson]

Bow caps and such.

Dear friend, Marty's right, they were originally vinyl-clad aluminum made way back when by Elk Brass (long since out of business too), if I 'm not mistaken. PSC did in fact begin to make very substantial glass replacements, I positively know that to be true because they used all three end caps from my E25+ as the first ones. If memory serves, not only did they fit my boat (I got a set out of the deal) but fit the bows of the 27, 28, 30+ and 32, possibly more but time dulls the memory and if I had to guess, all this took place around 1987-88. They were massively built, approaching 1/2" in thickness and coated white gel coat. I should think that one could, without too much effort, find an intact piece or set and do the same today, then you could pop them out to your heart's content. There must be others beside you who have the same problem. Hope this helps, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

 

[Martin King]

CLP,

PSC a.k.a. Pacific Sea Craft had a mold for the bow and end caps, and was supplying glass versions for guys like you and me. I think they
took it off of a 35 Mk 2 because it didn't quite fit the 39 I was rehabbing. I had to modify it with some pie cuts, bend it to shape
and reglass. Anyway, after it was painted it looked better than factory new. If I wasn't buried in a house remodel project that
has taken over my life, I would be happy to make a few but I just don't have the time or energy. All you need to do is find a clean
version and a willing owner who will let you borrow it to make a mold. The rest is just straight forward glass work and pretty easy
at that.

Martin

 

[tenders]

FWIW, the unit from PSC's mold did not fit my 32's bow, not even close, but I would gladly buy one that did. Just haven't gotten around to refabbing one from bent plastic pipe a la the article in Good Old Boat of several years ago.

 

[clp]

Mmm. Yep, the plastic pipe mold would more than likely end up being what I settle with. I've never seen the Good Old Boat article, (I wish I had, I love the rag), but I'm reasonably familiar with the concept. With those materials, plastic, fiberglass, etc, I can afford to experiment, and trash a few. Plus the fact that I'm a hopeless, and unrepentant workaholic, that spends most days just projecting at the yard.

But from the pictures I've seen, the pieces have some decidedly complex angles, that I'm thinking the Ericson purist want to go back with. And I fully understand this, why not.

The only other Ericson owner that I know has the personality of Caligula, and I doubt he would let me use his cap for the mold. Maybe a little midnight dinghy work, hmmm..

But I guess part of my inquiry as well was, is there a need for this endeavor. I had already gotten one P.M. asking about my intentions on this, but that's hardly indicative of a "market".

But thanks for the input. I'm still planning. Or plotting, maybe scheming, depends upon your perspective..

 

[toddster]

If I wasn't waist-deep in a zillion other projects right now, I'd attempt to make some molds. Seems more like something I might do over the winter though.

But what about a 21st century solution? Parts like this could be laser-scanned and a computer file of the 3D model could be stored on sites like this. Thereafter, anyone who wanted to could download it and send it to a 3D printer. As long as you can deal with stuff made of ABS or PLA.

 

[Lucky Dog]

Bow cap replacement

I took ours of a e35II and create a Autodesk inventor solid model. I try a abs model, cause I've never casted one before. mark

 

[jsnaulty]

bow cap????

what the devil is a bow cap?

 

[clp]

Well, for lack of better terminology, it's the cast aluminum piece on the very tip of the bow, that is the "end piece" of the rub rail. Coincidentally, it doesn't really rub well at all. They tend to break catastrophically upon impact. It's probably constructed out of unobtainium, due to the impossibility to reacquire.

I'm starting to lean more to a different approach. I'm thinking a stainless steel spike, sort of like a harpoon, maybe about 8, or 10 feet long, with a barb on the end, sort of like the Hunley had. Of course, their return trip didn't quite go so well, so, I don't know. I'm still stuck on this dragon idea, with the associated bronze shields all down the sides of her.

A big mermaid would be kind of nice too...

The jury is still out.

And so are those three guys in their white lab coats, that keep following me around with a net for some reason..

 

[exoduse35]

about those 3 guys... I talked to them and I guess it is getting chilly in your area cause they said they had some kinda jacket for you to wear. Also the winds and seas must be getting turbulent cause those nice men also wanted to put padding in your cabin, or something like that, they weren't real clear. Edd

 

[toddster]

I finally re-installed mine yesterday, but so far have been unable to discover a method for putting the backing nuts on those through-bolts, way up in the bow. They must have had child labor or a circus freak working at the factory to get up through that v-berth hatch. If I can force my shoulders through there, I'm not at all sure that I can get back out.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Getting a nut into a hard to get to place.

All, I've had luck in the past when gravity is working for me by placing a nut on something like a chop stick or small diameter screwdriver, laying the tip on the threaded end of the fastener and letting the nut slide down on it. By deftly holding the nut with a finger (or another chop stick) my goal is to simply get the threads to start. After that, I put a wrench or socket on the nut and tighten away. In the case of a horizontal application such as found on bow cap fasteners, I might be persuaded to do the same and push the nut onto the end of the threads with the second stick. Slight pressure on both sticks might be all that's needed to start the threads with someone else turning the screw from outside. Then it's a simple matter of using the wrench or socket as above. Maybe this will help, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

 

[Afrakes]

Hot glue gun

Several times I've used a hot glue gun to fasten a nut to a dowel inorder to get the nut into a tight spot. Just a touch of glue does the trick and breaks right off.
Al Frakes, Port Kent, NY

 

[Lucky Dog]

Or lasso the bolt with dental floss, thread the nut and spin until it catches....