Chalk on the non-slip

[sv.islandgirl]

I have heavy oxidation, and chalk residue on the topsides of my 1977 E-27. It is mostly in the cockpit and foredeck including on the non-slip. I know that the subject of gel coat renewal has been covered at length here previously however my question is what is the best way to treat the oxidation on the non-slip deck areas? How to get the compounds into the waffle pattern?

 

[tilwinter]

I think the reason no one has responded, is that there is really no satisfactory answer. I have totally refurbished the gelcoat on my 81 e30+, everywhere except the non-skid.

I am toying with the idea of painting over the non-skid (see the latest issue of Practical Sailor) because the porosity of the oxidized material draws so much dirt, I spend all summer cleaning it. A new coat of Toplac, with some grit in it, would be shiny and I hope, easier to clean

 

[Martin King]

The best method of renewing non skid I have found,
is LP paint salted with polymeric particles such as those
marketed by Interlux. The particles do not fill up the
molded in pattern yet stay embedded in the paint
film providing excellent grip without becoming too
abrasive. My particular favorite brand of LP is Sterling.
For further information check out www.detcomarine.com.

Martin

 

[tilwinter]

Martin:

Two questions:

First, where does one purchase Sterling products?

Second, how does one prep the non-skid adequately. Sanding will only attack the high spots on the non-skid, and leave the valleys inbetween untouched. Would you attack vigorously and essentially sand the non-skid smooth?

 

[Martin King]

Rod,
I purchase Sterling through Detco, their west coast rep. You could
contact them and ask about dealers in your area. They also
put out some good application guides that detail how to
prep for paint. In the case of gelcoated non-skid areas,
you start out scrubbing with a paste made of ajax
and water using a wire bristle brush. This is followed by
a toluol wipe down before the primer. If you are a newbie
with LP paints, find someone who has worked with them and
can help you through your first project. When properly
applied, the results can be outstanding.

Martin

 

[tilwinter]

Martin:

Practical Sailor recommended Toplac; this also I believe is a polyurethane. Any experience?

 

[Martin King]

Apples and oranges, my friend. Toplac is a one part
enamel. Sterling and Awlgrip are two part catalyzed
paints that cross link at the molecular level, sort of a
cousin to polyesther resins. I've got nothing against
Toplac, in fact I used it heavily in my interior (see picture
posted in headliner thread). However, if you are looking
for the longest lasting, most abrasive resistant (you are
going to walk on it) paint, then a 2 part linear poly is
without question the best choice.

Martin

 

[tilwinter]

Martin:

Since you seem to know some paint chemistry, what does the linear in "linear polyurethane" refer to? I assume there is also a "non-linear" polyurethane? Don't be afraid to be too technical in your reply.

 

[Kim Bache]

Have you tried fine cut rubbing compound and a buffer? Did this for my '76 E35-2 and had great results.

 

[tilwinter]

What head did you use on the buffer? It seems like wool or foam would be chewed up by the non-skid texture

 

[Kim Bache]

It's called a compounding pad (white) as opposed a polish pad (yellow). Can find them at auto stores. 3M makes several different grits of rubbing compound. Choose wisely! Hope this works for you as well as it did for me.

 

[Martin King]

what does the linear in "linear polyurethane" refer to?


Linear refers to the structure of the molecule. There isn't
room for a treatise on the subject here and I'm not a
chemist anyway. If you want further info, contact
www.detcomarine.com and they can tell you more than
you ever want to know about the subject. Suffice it to say
I have used both Sterling and Awlgrip, brushed and sprayed
for the past 10 years, and either system is excellent when
applied correctly.

Martin