E36-C toe rail repair

[mark001]

Hi,

the toe rail on my E36C has separated from the hull and I am wondering if anyone has ideas on how to best repair it (see pic below).
The toe rail is/was attached by wood screws through the hull from the inside, and the heads of the screws where then glassed over. I assume this is the case for all the screws but they are also behind the interior walls so getting access to them would mean removing all the inner carpentery. The problem is over time the wood screws have pulled out of the toe rail so a gap has opened between the hull and the rail. It is like this on both sides but is (thankfully) confined to the middle section, ie the fore and aft ends are still attached. It has been like this for probably 10 years ... yeah its been on the to-do list for a long time and I have tried things like sikaflex but no success. I am concerned that if the end sections pull out then the whole thing will pop out or fall off. The boat is in Australian waters so the sun is quite extreme and expansion and contraction means the gap is sometimes bigger than at other times.

Any thoughts, or just leave it?

Regards,
Mark.

 

[peaman]

Is there any way to run screws in from outboard and into the hull?

 

[gabriel]

With a giant clamp : )

 

[Christian Williams]

The 32-3 and E381 screwed the aluminum rub rail into the hull from the outside. Since that happened to be exactly where the joint of deck and hull met, creating a gap, they didn't hold very well. They were only 1 1/4" long, to avoid piercing the entire structure.

Many of us have had to replace rub rail, and screwing it into the hull works fine. The screws need caulk on them, and they ought to be longer than the originals.

I see no issue just sealing your existing loose screw holes and adding new, longer screws as necessary. Do test to find the right sized pilot hole bit, as glass is finicky about that. There should be moderate resistance when screwing--not so small a pilot hole as to threaten to break off the screw.

You can drill for a bung if not a fan of countersunk screw heads showing.

 

[Gaviate]

I recently looked at another 36c with the same condition on the rub rail (toe rail is up at deck level). As discussed above, easiest solution is new fastener from the outside into the fiberglass, at least countersunk to flush or if you prefer, countersunk with room for a bung. I would also try to get some adhesive on shank of existing screws behind the rail to help secure it. I would not just leave it.
That other vessel had a metal trim strip down the center of the rail, attached with small screws. I would think you could do something similar or just be tidy with some evenly spaced stainless screws and leave the interior undisturbed.

 

[JonathanCarlos]

Mine are doing the same thing on my 36c. Have had a couple people look at it and the solution is the same as stated above. Cut the current screws off and attach from the outside, then add plug. We are hauling out for some blister work and bottom job at the end of this season and plan to have the rub rails fixed then. The yard that is doing the bottom as already looked at the rub rails and agree with the solution. Also planning to cut the rub rails and add a another angled splice to allow the rub rail to fit snug against the hull. Good luck with the repairs.

 

[JonathanCarlos]

You can zoom in on this pic to see the separation on mine.