Ericson 41 Florida - Norway

[sveinutne]

The instrument panel in braze was already changing color, so I tried several methods to get it back to shine again. I ended up just sanding it down with a find paper and giving it a layer of epoxy. It will also get a layer of varnish later.

 

[sveinutne]

I was not sure what to do first. Sand down the cockpit and give it two layers of topcoat, or sand down the teak on the side of the cockpit and give it a layer of epoxy and varnish. I decide to start with the teak because the teak will absorb the white dust and it will stick far into the groves, and it will be difficult to sand away. With a layer of epoxy the teak will be easy to clean I hope. In the picture you can also see some marks after I spilled my coffee, but that is ok. It will be sanded off later anyway. The teak turned quite dark when I put on the epoxy, but I think it looks OK.

 

[sveinutne]

Did some work on the boat today, Sanded down the front cabin and put 3 layers of varnish on the wall. I finely got the 316 steel parts that was going under the bowsprit for extra support. It was cut out with a water cutter. The finish is so nice that no extra work is needed, but I sanded it a little bit to soften the edges. The holes was also cut out by water, and they had to match the holes in the anchor roller that is on the top, so I was very excited to see if it would fit. To my surprise it was a perfect fit. It was less than 1 mm of air between the bow chain plate and the support that should be welded together.

 

[sveinutne]

I am about to start on the salon floor, but I am not sure what will be best. On the outside teak I have put on epoxy and then varnish. Most of the places are not for walking, so it is OK that they get a very slick surface, but the salon floor might be different. Before I sand down the floor and put on a layer of epoxy I would like to know with you expert what you recommend.</SPAN>

 

[Loren Beach]

Just one suggestion

I am about to start on the salon floor, but I am not sure what will be best. On the outside teak I have put on epoxy and then varnish. Most of the places are not for walking, so it is OK that they get a very slick surface, but the salon floor might be different. Before I sand down the floor and put on a layer of epoxy I would like to know with you expert what you recommend.</SPAN>

One of the best looking "non skid" versions of a varnished cabin sole I have seen was on a Santa Cruz 53C. This is the cruising version of the design.
The boat has a teak and holly sole, and they had clear-finished it all, and then taped off the darker teak strips and put down another wet varnish (?) layer and sprinkled clear glass beads in it. Then they coated it clear again.

This left a translucent surface that showed the wood grain pretty well, but was a really good non-skid under foot. It must have involved a lot of blue tape...

I say "varnish" but I am not completely certain -- it might have been clear LPU finish.
Anyhow, the effect was subtle and very effective.

Loren

 

[sveinutne]

I was planning to sand light and put on varnish, but I got glass bids at work that might be ok. I have three bags one with 40 µm, 70 µm and 110 µm. This glass bids might be smaller then what is needed? I am not sure if I will use all this blue tape. Maybe the glass bids can be mixed in the varnish before it is put on the floor?</SPAN>

 

[Sven]

Loren's glass bead suggestion sounds beautiful. The only caution might be if you ever want to sand it off again. If you used a heat gun there shouldn't be a problem but we've had some horror stories of folks trying to sand off deck paint with sand embedded for non-skid.

I don't think the Dashews invented it but they did some boats with crushed walnut shells for anti-skid down below, in strips. The walnut shells would obscure the wood grain but the color might look nice ?



-Sven

 

[sveinutne]

I got the hydraulic pump and motor, so now I can start on maybe the hardest part of this job. First to get the pump to fit where the gearbox was located, and connect the hydraulic motor to the gearbox, the next will be to get it into the boat and connect to the propeller shaft.</SPAN>

 

[HughHarv]

I got the hydraulic pump and motor, so now I can start on maybe the hardest part of this job. First to get the pump to fit where the gearbox was located, and connect the hydraulic motor to the gearbox, the next will be to get it into the boat and connect to the propeller shaft.

I like the hydraulic drive idea. Good luck!

 

[sveinutne]

The hydraulic will give me more freedom when it comes to placement of the engine, but the hydraulic system will eat a lot of the power. How much I will loose I do not know, but some say 20 till 30%, but this loss will be generating into heat in the hydraulic oil, and I hope to be able to use it to heat the cabin. In Norway you will never get too much heat. It is cold or freezing cold, so a little heat from the hydraulic will only be positive. At full power I hope to get 5 till 10 kW of heat in the cabin. </SPAN></SPAN>

 

[sveinutne]

It is time to paint the outside of the boat, and I also need to decide on a name. I have followed Andrea Rossi and his E-Cat for some time, and I was thinking of calling the boat E-Cat but today defkalion announced the name of their product line that will use the E-Cat for energy production, and they are all called Hyperion and something.</SPAN></SPAN>
http://www.defkalion-energy.com/news</SPAN></SPAN>
So maybe I go for Hyperion.</SPAN></SPAN>
You will find more info about the energy invention in the whitepaper. </SPAN></SPAN>
http://www.defkalion-energy.com/White%20Paper_DGT.pdf</SPAN></SPAN>
This could be the start of a new energy era for the human race.</SPAN></SPAN>
This is also a good place to find info about the invention.
http://www.nyteknik.se/nyheter/energi_miljo/energi/article3208908.ece

 

[sveinutne]

Yes we won the race!

Hi all,</SPAN>
I just feel like bragging today.</SPAN>
I just got back from the race, and our boat "Exquis" won.
http://www.trondhjems-seilforening.no/regatta/2011/hor2011.html</SPAN></SPAN>
We are a bunch of untrained sailors and on some of the other boats they have sailing instructors and training three times a week. Then it feels really good to beat them.</SPAN>
The owner of Exquis is starting on a three year long around the world tour in August, and then I hope to be able to use his slip in the marina. I have been on the waiting list for a spot for three years already, and might have to wait another three year before I might get one, so if he will be away till I get my own place in the marina, it will just be perfect.</SPAN>
From a weary tiered but satisfied sailor. But to win, we had to take it to the edge, and we ripped one spinnaker, so winning has its price. But today I think we all feel it was worth it.</SPAN>
It is quite an adrenalin rush doing 15 knots in 3-4 meters waves with too light spinnaker.

 

[Sven]

defkalion announced the name of their product line that will use the E-Cat for energy production, and they are all called Hyperion and something.

Hope you are very careful before possibly investing ett øre in that company.

Any company that produces more energy than it consumes using secret physics is highly suspect.



-Sven

 

[sveinutne]

So far I am only investing in paint to writhe "Hyperion".
But if this will be the solution for the words energy need we will know later this year.
http://www.infinite-energy.com/images/pdfs/MacyDefkalion.pdf

PS. Sven have you read this:
http://beforeitsnews.com/story/778/215/Cheap_Cold_Fusion_to_Save_World_Billions.html

 

[sveinutne]

This picture is taken after the race, and Exquis, ASISS and Lusso Lupo can be seen in the picture. To win the race was not the most important thing, but to beat Lusso Lupa. Into the night after some drinks the owner of Lusso Lupa that was the previous owner of Exquis came with a remark I will try to translate. He did not like to be beaten, because he usually always win, but to be beaten by his old boat after it has been rebuild for crusing was not so nice. Exquis got radar and a ton of equipment onboard that is not normal to have in race boats.</SPAN>

 

[sveinutne]

Friction in the floor is a science.

Yesterday I put five layers of varnish on the cabin sole, but only part of it. To be able to walk, I divided the floor in three parts. Under the table, front cabin and main gangway. What I did was under the table and front cabin. The floor in the front cabin is tilting with a high angle, so friction on the floor there might be needed.</SPAN></SPAN>
After five layers of varnish, put wet on wet, I waited 30 minutes so it started to stiffen a little bit, then I sprinkled glass bits at 200-300 microns and waited till this morning before testing it. It gave friction all right, but it was almost too much. It felt like sandpaper. So tonight or tomorrow I will take the main part of the floor, and put on 40-70 microns. </SPAN></SPAN>
But on deck I really want friction when it is wet, so there 200-300 micron might be OK?</SPAN></SPAN>
I will wait till I have seen the result from the cabin first, and maybe I will try 70-110 micron on the deck. If it is too small I can always put a new layer with larger size glass, but it is difficult to go the other way.</SPAN></SPAN>

 

[sveinutne]

I put on four layers of varnish and then sprinkled the glass bits 40-70 microns and then I put on the last layer of varnish. The glass bits are invisible, so I wonder if they will make much extra friction, but I will not know before tomorrow after it has harden. </SPAN>
Now I wonder if maybe I should put the glass bits in the topcoat on the deck too, but maybe the 40-70 micron will be too small on deck. I will wait till I have tested the result from the cabin floor. Now I wish I had taken the 70-110 microns as I first planed to use.</SPAN>

 

[sveinutne]

The varnish with 40-70 microns glass bits is now almost dry and I could feel the floor got some friction, but not the sandpaper feeling the first part with 200-300 microns got. I have a box of Yachting antiskid powder, and I brought it to work where I tried to find the grain size, and from what I can see it is even smaller then 40 microns? But it feels different then the glass bits, so maybe the glass bits and the anti skid are about the same size but very different. </SPAN></SPAN>
For the deck I want as much friction as possible, and then maybe larger grain size will help, so it will take some time before I find what I need. What I can see as negative with this larger glass bits, is that dirt also will stick too it. So it might be a pain to keep the deck clean?</SPAN></SPAN>

 

[sveinutne]

When I get home I will paint the front deck with topcout with yachting antiskid powder and sprinkel 150+ micron size glass bits on top. Then tomorrow or Friday I will put water on it and test how much friction I get with a lot of water on deck.

 

[sveinutne]

Friction on deck and hydralic in bilge

I have been too busy to work on the boat for some time, but yesterday I tested the friction on deck where I had the glass bits. The friction is superb, but I also see the dirt will stick too it, so it will be a pain to keep clean.</SPAN></SPAN>
Did the first dry test of the hydraulic parts and now I know I got room for it down below in the bilge. It was a bit scary to see I only got 10 cm left of space when the hydraulic motor coupling and gearbox was down in the bilge connected to the propeller axel. Now I need to make the steal plates that will hold it all in place down in the bilge.</SPAN></SPAN>