Extra stanchion on E35

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
The run between the gate and forward stanchion on my deck has always seemed kind of long, has anyone ever added an extra, and if so exactly where?
Since I am rebuilding my deck and replacing all the stanchions anyway, it would not take too much extra effort.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
 

hinters

Member I
Gareth
I have a picture of my gates (E-35 II 244) but I can't
figure out how to attach it to this message. If you send
your E-mail address I will send it to you. Mine looks like
the factory installation so I wonder if some P.O.
modified yours at some time.
Cheers
Pat
 

chrism

Inactive Member
Just curious... does anyone have a boarding gate on both sides? We have a gate on the starboard side, but there is a base for one to port, but the electrical panel is right below it.
 

hinters

Member I
Mine has two gates also....and my electrical panel is on
the starboard side on the bulkhead between the galley and the lazerette
Pat
E-35 II 244 1972
 

chrism

Inactive Member
I know my panel was moved.

Actually, my whole interior is modified. Bunk beds, big diesel in the middle, etc.
 

garryh

Member III
mine is a '78 and has gates on both sides. This boat is new to me this year and it definitely needs another stanchion just before or after the main shrouds. The lifelines pushing against the shrouds is sloppy and there is nowhere to mount a fairlead for the furling line which rubs on the base of the chainplate (because the white tubes do not sit well and fully down to the deck on the large chainplate/double stay arrangement. Very fortunately managed to find a couple of matching stanchions on an abandoned boat in the yard... another Spring job!
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Is there any difference in the deck core below the stanchions? If so, I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to open it up and recore such a small bit.
My boat also seems to have a stanchion deficiency, but I'm kind of stuck in analysis paralysis on fixing it. (Should I just have the pushpit rebuilt? How will the future solar arch fit?)
 

garryh

Member III
my decks are not just wet they are actually missing in some places. Extensive water intrusion and also bulkhead damage... more Spring jobs :-|
The core in the area of the new stanchion will be the same as that in the existing stanchions, the installation of which was not done properly. If your core is good where you are mounting the new stanchion you should overdrill through the top layer, excavate core in the area 3/8 or 1/2" back into the deck, fill with hardened epoxy then drill for the new stanchion bolts. This should also be done for all existing stanchions (and all existing deck hardware... something the builders just not do right). The outboard holes for the stanchions may be through solid fibreglass but the inboard holes will be through cored areas. While you are doing it, it would be a good form to 'paint' the insides of the outboard holes with unthickened epoxy resin (maybe twice) to reduce water permeation into the fibreglass laminate (redrill slightly oversized first).
 

garryh

Member III
also thinking of having the stern rail modified to extend to the first stanchion. The lifelines in that area serve no useful purpose, the lower gets in the way of the jib halyard run to the main winches and cranking, and it would give one more rail to hang stuff on
 

celtic sea

Member III
On my 1975 E35-2(I need to check hull #) there are no gates, but on both port and starboard side there are factory pads there. I checked the existing stanchions they are on pads and I see the nuts on the underside cabin roof. It appears it will be easy to install two more in the preset pad positions and add the gates. I plan on replacing the worn lifelines anyway.
John
E35-2
 
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