Fiberglass schedule
- Thread starter felix
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gareth harris
Sustaining Member
I have a hurricane damaged 1970s E35, with deck and hull damage, which I am in the middle of repairing. I am not quite sure what you are asking (I have not picked up on the lingo), but if you have any specific questions I will give you what information I can.
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
Have you checked this website for your model manual because I've seen the information somewhere?
jmoses
Member III
Fiberglass schedule?
Felix,
the general trend is to spray the gelcoat in the mold then lay up a layer or two of binder laminate mat (chop strand) which helps prevent print through of follow on cloth/roving. After the initial layer or two of mat, usually a layer of cloth is laid down followed by several layers of woven roving. Between the layers of roving, mat is usually laid down as roving adheres poorly to itself and requires the bonding properties of mat between layers. Keep in mind there are various weights of mat, cloth and rovin out there, not to mention the new materials such as X-mat, unidirectional cloth, multi-layer cloth, etc.
Keepin mind epoxy is inherently stronger than resin and will stick to resin but not vice versa (resin won't stick to epoxy and is not as strong as epoxy)
How many layers? Hard to say. Have you taken a core sample of the repair area(s)? It's fairly easy to deconstruct a core sample and peel apart the layers.
Then you toss in coring such as balsa (end grain) or closed cell foam and it gets a little more complicated.
So, with out details and looking at the size, areas and extent of damage, it's hard to give much more details than above. If the damage is extensive, it may behoove you to call in a surveyor or call on a shipyard who are experts in this area. After all, insurance should be in effect and cover the repairs and pay for a survey no?
Summary? It's best to do it right and not be concerned later on that the laminate shedule was wrong (layers peel apart), too thin (deck/hull oil cans)or not done correctly (hot coat Vs. cure and grind, wrong weight of material, etc.).
You may want to read Dave Gerr's book 'Boat Strenghth' , West Systems books, or Don Casey's multiple books on boat repair (i.e. Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair).
John M.
Felix,
the general trend is to spray the gelcoat in the mold then lay up a layer or two of binder laminate mat (chop strand) which helps prevent print through of follow on cloth/roving. After the initial layer or two of mat, usually a layer of cloth is laid down followed by several layers of woven roving. Between the layers of roving, mat is usually laid down as roving adheres poorly to itself and requires the bonding properties of mat between layers. Keep in mind there are various weights of mat, cloth and rovin out there, not to mention the new materials such as X-mat, unidirectional cloth, multi-layer cloth, etc.
Keepin mind epoxy is inherently stronger than resin and will stick to resin but not vice versa (resin won't stick to epoxy and is not as strong as epoxy)
How many layers? Hard to say. Have you taken a core sample of the repair area(s)? It's fairly easy to deconstruct a core sample and peel apart the layers.
Then you toss in coring such as balsa (end grain) or closed cell foam and it gets a little more complicated.
So, with out details and looking at the size, areas and extent of damage, it's hard to give much more details than above. If the damage is extensive, it may behoove you to call in a surveyor or call on a shipyard who are experts in this area. After all, insurance should be in effect and cover the repairs and pay for a survey no?
Summary? It's best to do it right and not be concerned later on that the laminate shedule was wrong (layers peel apart), too thin (deck/hull oil cans)or not done correctly (hot coat Vs. cure and grind, wrong weight of material, etc.).
You may want to read Dave Gerr's book 'Boat Strenghth' , West Systems books, or Don Casey's multiple books on boat repair (i.e. Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair).
John M.
gareth harris
Sustaining Member
Having shown samples of my deck to the local fibreglass guru, he has told me it looks like 6 or 7 layers on the foredeck, and 4 or 5 on the rest of the lower deck. Top deck I peeled some of, and it had three layers.
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972