How do these drain? They are glassed in underneath

David Grimm

E38-200
On the 38-200 it's a little different. The combing box goes deeper than the opening. Below the opening there are 2 holes in the fiberglass for drainage into the cockpit. The old plastic box is cracked and has holes. I assume rain water passes through and into the bildge at this point. Eventually I will make a new box out of fiberglass.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I don't know how the 35-2 drains, or how the bin is constructed. But it would be easy to make a cover for it.

cockpit coaming bin cover.JPG

The E381, and other '80s boats, have plastic bin inserts. They have often been destroyed by UV by the time a contemporary owner takes possession. I fiberglassed the broken bin from below, which preserved its shape and utility. If the base is unsightly, just cut a plastic kitchen placemat of the correct color to fit the bottom.

Ericson 381 cockpit coaming bin.JPG

Mine drains through obvious holes, as seen here. It is sunlight that tends to destroy the teak surround and the plastic bin base. A Sunbrella cover keeps water out and is easy to remove when sailing, although I seldom bother, as the cover flips easily and it hides the sail ties and potato chips inside.
 
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bradykern

New Member
Unfortunately there are no drains, and that exposed plywood that you see is also the core of the side deck outboard of the winch islands. A cover may be your best bet, we had the same issue but couldn't come up with a way to fix them without major surgery.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
The other problem, besides rain that doesn't drain, is that birds like to make nests in those boxes!

I made covers out of 1/2" StarBoard, with a lip on the top so they rest on the edge of the coaming, and with two eyes attached to the lip anchoring bungee cord that wraps around the nearby cleats so the covers are held in place. The bungee cord lasts about two seasons.* The StarBoard has lasted...gee...22 years so far?

And years ago I dug out the old warped plywood layers and faired over what was left with white-tinted epoxy.

*The bungee cord system replaced wooden cleats I'd put inside the covers. One cleat was fixed in place; the other was attached to a toilet-paper-roll-holder anchored to the cover, which worked as a spring-loaded piston to squeeze the cover against the hole. This setup was greatly amusing, and worked pretty well, except that for some reason they don't make salt-water-resistant toilet-paper-roll-holders, and they only lasted a few weeks before the springs rusted.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
1680298373067.png

If it were me, I'd just drill drain holes (as in Post #4). Drill 3/8th inch, fill with thickened epoxy, redrill 1/4 inch. Or cut inserts of copper tubing for the holes, which I've done, and which looks quite pro.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
On the older boats the holes wouldn’t drain standing water. The coaming boxes are sloped outboard - so they only drain when heeled to the opposite side.

I realized this problem really needed to be solved when the cold water poured all over my passengers after a few weeks of disuse…and the water was green with algae. Left a poor impression.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Really. That's weird. Covers, then. Or make a replacement coaming box, if it's worth the trouble. But I will quit trying to solve a problem I don't understand.
 

gareth harris

Sustaining Member
There is no way of draining them without getting creative with hoses since beneath the port side is the quarter berth and beneath the other side is the cockpit storage. I got good covers made to protect the teak varnish from the sun, and they had an added benefit of preventing water getting in there, except when under sail when a sponge was the only way to remove it.

Gareth
Freyja E35 No. 241 1972
 
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