Installation of a Balmar Aternator & Xantrex Regulator

Shadowfax

Member III
I'm posting this to the list in the hope that it may be of service to someone thinking of this upgrade. I originally wrote this to Tom Metzger, resident electrical engineer and my personal electrical guru, who helped me thought the decision process and the mechanics of the installation. Thanks again Tom>

Tom,

The installation of the Balmar 6 series 100 amp alternator and the Xantrex regulator is complete. I thought I’d give you the blow by blow since you where of so much help in the design.

As we discussed, I at first was told that I didn’t need to get a new alternato,r as much as I needed a “smart” regulator. After discussions with you and my guy at the marina it became obvious that I could go that route, but I’d probably burn the existing alternator up pretty quickly and most likely at the most inopportune time. So I the purchase of the 6 series Balmar alternator, which has the option of using an onboard regulator, or disabling it, for use with a remote regulator, with the idea that if the external regulator fails, you can very easily switch back to the internal. I followed your advise and bought the 100 amp, even though it wanted the ½ inch belt and the Universal M 25 XP has 3/8 pulleys. Mine, like yours, runs proud of the engine pulleys. The belt is a Napa 7405 XL. I bought the universal mounting bracket offered by Balmar, but it didn’t work and my guy made up a custom one. We where concerned about the compatibility of the Balmar alternator to the Xantrex regulator, so we [re. he] called Balmar and was informed that they make the Xantrex regulator for them, so there where no compatibility issues. Interesting!

There where wiring issues. My guy upgraded the lead wires to #6 and removed the amp meter and replaced it with a volt meter at the panel in the cockpit to improve the loss rate in running a wire to the panel and back. I think you did the same. Not a problem as the Link 10 will give me a better idea of amps then the cockpit meter ever did.

I plan on going around this weekend, so I’ll see how it works; it has been test run and works, but there is nothing like a field test. As in the words of Capt. Ron, “If it’s going to go wrong, Boss, it will go wrong out there.” I’ll let you know how it goes.

I’ll put this on the Ericson.org site in case someone might be contemplating the same upgrade.
 

cawinter

Member III
Pictures?

Paul,

Very helpful. Can you somehow add a picture of the belt setup and the bracket that was manufactured? You are running the 1/2" belt on the 3/8" pulley then? I saw one setup here in the marina with a turnbuckle down to the engine block. Is that what you did for the bracket?
 

Shadowfax

Member III
Chris,

Sorry no pictures yet, but I was down this weekend and it works well. Yes I am running a 1/2 inch belt, as the 100 amp Balmar has that size pulley and Balmar recommended that size, as did Tom. The engine pulleys are 3/8 inch, so the belt runs proud of those pulleys. Tom has been running this way for years without a problem. BTW, Tom has pictures of his set up. I bought the universal mounting bracket from Balmar and didn’t use it. My guy made his own bracket [as did Tom] and it is very similar to the stock bracket. I looked at Geoff’s rather ingenious set up, but mine is nothing like that. We mounted the regulator on the bulkhead just behind the alternator and above the access door from the rear berth. My guy got a little creative with the wiring, as noted in my earlier post and I now have a rather redundant voltage meter in the cockpit. I’m thinking of removing it and doing an oil pressure gage in its place instead of the oil pressure buzzer.

All in all a nice project, but if you are not well versed in marine wiring, I’d let a professional do it. I have just enough knowledge to get into serious trouble, and these are expensive items to be practicing recreational welding with.
 

cawinter

Member III
Thanks

Paul,

Good info. I look forward to the pictures whenever you have them. This has been on my list of things to consider given that I am out on a mooring. Geoff's setup is almost identical to something I saw here a while back.

I was thinking about the 70A alternator which should be plenty for my 2xGroup 31 batteries but, of course, a few more amps shouldn't hurt. If the 1/2" belt is running fine then there's really no reason not to go to the 100A.

Chris
 

Shadowfax

Member III
If the 1/2" belt is running fine then there's really no reason not to go to the 100A.



Chris,

That's what I thought. I have refrigeration, which is the real battery killer for me, add the anchor light, stereo, a couple of showers, some dish washing, fans and lights; a couple of days gunkholeing and my old alternator couldn't keep the batteries charged, even if I ran the engine for hours. I first tried to take up the slack by installing 3 Rolls batteries that gave me 340 + - amp hours for the house, which took care of weekend use, but made anything longer a trial, as the alternator just couldn't charge them up with the amps I was using.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
cawinter said:
I was thinking about the 70A alternator which should be plenty for my 2xGroup 31 batteries but, of course, a few more amps shouldn't hurt. If the 1/2" belt is running fine then there's really no reason not to go to the 100A.

You can probably put 70 amps into your 2 grp 31 batteries, but I doubt if you can get 70 amps @14.5 volts out of a 70 amp alternator. I think it is rated at 12 volts. This is the reason I went to the 100 amp alternator. Also, at 70 amps your 100 amp alternator isn't raising a sweat. Don't believe it; it's as hot as a ... No, I won't go there, but a 70 amp model will be a whole lot hotter. Heat is the main failure instigator in electrical gear.

Another thing to consider is that a 100 amp alternator putting out 70 amps doesn't use a significant amount more mechanical energy than a 70 amp alternator putting out the same power. In either case a smaller belt will work, but the 1/2" belt will last a lot longer.

If you missed the picture of my installation, you can find it by searching "Balmar alternators" for Paul's original thread entitled "Best price on..."
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Not to cut into a thread here but does anyone have a Balmar on a Universal 5432? I can fabricate mounts if necessary but what would be far easier is a direct bolt on replacement. Any direct bolt ons available? Thanks, RT
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Rob - Alternator mounts are standard. There are a few different standards, but Balmar makes alternators that fit each standard. Unfortunately, there is also an adjusting arm that is used to adjust the belt tension that may have to be modified to fit a different size alternator or the limited space in the engine compartment. This adjusting arm is what has been discussed in this thread. I believe the one I use is off of an old Dodge in-line six.

Take a look at the mounting bracket on your engine and then look at the mounting arrangements on the Balmar web site. You should find what you need.
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Ah, well that clarifies things a bit. I did know that alternators have several foot designs, etc. from automotive wrenching and looking at the Balmar site. The confusion came from all the talk of modifying mounts. I can deal with making the adjusting arm. Thanks, RT
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Thanks Ben!
Any possibility of a pic of the install? Just curious if your layout is the same as mine... What year is your boat? Are you running two belts or just a 1/2" single? Thanks again, RT
 

Ray Rhode

Member III
With the discussion of adjustment brackets I thought I'd send along a picture on one solution. Earlier Chris mentioned a turnbuckle setup. I don't remember where I got the idea but it works well. It uses a tubular turnbuckle and an aircraft swage eye. The I.D. of the swage eye matches the O.D. of the turnbuckle shaft after you cut the "T" off of one end.


Ray Rhode
S/Y Journey
E35-III, #189
 

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Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
I used the same turnbuckle setup (see photo in thread cited above). However, was afraid to drill a hole in the engine frame because of the potential weakening of an aluminum structure structure that probably gets a lot of stress. The jerry-built systems of straps I used actually works very well. The turnbuckle is great, allowing micro tension adjustments not possible with the usual crowbar method.
 

stbdtack

Member III
Rob,
Heres a pic of my alternator. The boat is an '82. I'm running a single 3/8" belt but I will be changing to a 1/2". This one was new last season and as you can see it's getting stretched out. I just need to figure out the 1/2" belt length.

Many years ago I set up a friends Universal with a large diameter pulley on the stub shaft so he could get max charging at fast idle speeds. I'm considering doing this which requires spacing the alternator fwd a couple of inches. Browning single or double cast iron pulleys are easily available that will fit right onto the shaft with set screws. Its nice to get full alt. output at 1500 rpm and its good to load the engine up when just charging at anchor. If you look at alt. specs you get full output at 6000 rpm and the max speed is 15,000rpm so there is plenty of room to speed up the alt. with a larger pulley. Also the pulley can be a true 1/2" belt size or double if you want.

I like the turnbuckle adjustment part. More projects.....:rolleyes:
 

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rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Ben,
Thanks much for the pic. Your setup is exactly like mine as I had hoped for. I am considering an Ample Power alt/reg setup but that is another topic.... RT
 
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