Re-Bedding Deck Hardware

[Art]

I own a 1978 Ericson 29 and would like some advice on re-bedding the handrails and hatches on the cabin top. The boat has a plastic head liner inside the cabin and there is access only to the first and last bolts for the handrails. What do you recommend I do to remove the handrails so I can re-finish and re-bed them if I don't have access to the nuts for the rest of the bolts?

My second question is regarding how the cabin top hatches are secured. Are they screwed in place or thru-bolted? I am reluctant to remove them if they are bolted in place as I will never be able to recover the nuts without cutting away some of the headliner.

Thanks,
Art Weis
Ericson 29 #578
Vermont on Lake Champlain

 

[jkenan]

Art-

My exterior hand rails (on my '77 E29) were thru bolted thru the interior hand rails on each side. To remove the interior or exterior handrails would necessitate the rebedding or removal of the other. I made the decision to remove all handrails (which were leaking and in need of refininshing) in order to drill out the thru-deck holes to 3/4" and fill with epoxy to protect the balsa for the future handrail installation. Generally, you want this type of preventave measure taken with all deck hardware installation points or you risk water getting into your deck core, which could seriously comprise the structural integrity of your boat, as well as it's value (a survey should disclose any pre-existing moisture in the deck). I still have yet to reinstall the handrails, but the future installation points will tap thru epoxy, not balsa, which is the critical concern with any deck hardware installation.

Hatches were tapped thru the balsa on my E29 with wood type screws, not machine screws. Regardless of screw type, tapping thru balsa lends itself to obvious mosture problems in the deck. My deck was still very dry (fortunately) when I had it surveyed, but I am insuring it's long term structural integrity by applying the same treatment to ALL deck installation points - widening and filling with epoxy of all deck hardware mounting holes, and then re-tapping thu epoxy, not balsa.

Bottom line... don't be afraid to drill a hole in your boat (but have a plan for how to fill it that will improve your boat).http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/images/icons/icon6.gif
Good luck.

 

[Art]

John,
thank you very much for the advice. The pre-purchase survey (3 years ago) indicated no moisture in the cabin top. However, I believe I am getting a leak (or leaks) from either the handrails or hatch cover attachments (or both) and am now at risk for moisture in the balsa core.
Art

 

[NateHanson]

Not sure if i'm just misunderstanding your description above, but I wouldn't drill out the fiberglass skins on both sides to a diameter of 3/4 in order to fill with epoxy for through-bolting. That's asking for trouble in my opinion because then you're relying on a relatively poor bond between the epoxy plug and the adjacent skins. Preferably you should only remove the balsa core BETWEEN the fiberglass skins, and fill that with thickened epoxy. You can scrape out the balsa by chucking a bent nail in a drill and using that to cut out the balsa around your mounting hole, before filling with epoxy.

Nate