Rust and stainless steel

[jon newman]

After removing all the through deck connections { u-bolts}I found that the rust had started to attach the threads at the very top where the deck seal is located, just about 1/2 inch into yhe deck. this is classic crevice corrosion, oxygen starviation. Al;though this was cosmetic, the metal was pitted.
I wish we all could afford Hastalloy C or 256Mo, hardware, i just cleaned and passivated the threads and re-bedded, I treated the blocks , rod and fastners with Anti - ox, compound. The trick is to tape the threaded end before you push them through.
Note the hole size for these fittings was 1.5 times bigger than the bolts, when you clean out all the old sealant, make sure you use alot of 101, and get some into the holes.

 

[Geoff Johnson]

Jon, I still don't have a clear idea how you removed the U-bolts. Is is just a matter of unscrewing the connecting rods?

 

[jon newman]

Rust and stainless

Mr Johnson, the u-bolts are threaded on one end, use a heavy mallet to punch them through the deck, leave the nuts on the end of the stud to give you some surface area to tap against, this will also protect the threads. Remove them after the studs move upward to the cabin top.
When you have removed the tension on the connecting rod, you can remove the backing blocks. Once you have pushed up the studs, two per u-bolt type fitting, you can remove them from topside. The seal is preventing you from removing them with ease, that is why you need a heavy mallet to force them loose.
when the rod is disconnected you will see how it comes apart, clean and lubricate with Lanacote all threads and mating connections. repassivate the stainless with Wichinox stainless steel polish. Re bed with 3M101 or equal , use lots to get it into the holes, tape the ends of the fittings with tape, about 1/2 inch is all that needs to be covered. After its all togeteher let the rigger adjust the tension when you re-step the mast, also let the rigger adjust it all when you take her out for a test sail, this will allow him to fine tune your rigging. jeniii

 

[Geoff Johnson]

Here is a good description of the procedure I received on the Ericson list:

I rebedded the chain plate/u-bolts on the port side of my 1986 E38-200 a
couple of years ago. My suggested procedure is as follows:

1. Lubricate & loosen your turnbuckles on the side you want to rebed
(slightly loosing the other side also)
2. With the tension off the u-bolts the rod will turn easier. Turn the rod
to loosen (it is treaded in a fitting attached to the hull, the top rotates
in an aluminum socket.)
3. Remove the nuts holding the u-bolts to the backing plate/socket under
the deck.
4. Retension the turnbuckle on the u-bolt you want to pull out. Tap the
u-bolt you want to come out with a wrench or hammer (you might want to put a
nut on it to avoid smashing the threads). If you tighten the turnbuckles
enough slight tapping should allow the u-bolts to pull right out. DO NOT
LOOSE THE U-BOLTS. Rumor has it that they are no longer made but Pacific
Seacraft may have some laying around.

5. Over drill the holes at least 1/8" to 3/16" in diameter (I think I did a
1/4"). Clean out any rotten core. Seal the core with Smith's penetrating
epoxy. Fill the hole with slow cure West Epoxy with a little high density
filler within 48 hours of using the Smith's (it will chemically bond in that
time). Let cure for at least 24 hours (longer if real cold out side).

6. Put blue tape over the holes and carefully mark the centers (laying out
a centerline grid is helpful). Center punch the hole centers and double
check. Drill small 1/8" hole in center and check. Use a drill guide (like
a portable drill press but they only cost ~$29.00 and connect to your
portable drill motor) to get a straight hole. If the hole is too close to
the cabin top to use the drill guide, make one out of a wood block. Work
you way up with bigger drill bits until you get to the u-bolt size. This
will keep the drill bits from wandering.

7. Chamfer the top of the hole ~ 1/16" to 1/8" so that there is room for
caulking to sit when you install the u-bolt cover plate.

8. Reinstall the u-bolt with 3m 101 caulking & tighten the connecting rod
before you tighten the turnbuckle. I lubricated the top of the rod to make
it turn easier. Don't over tighten the rod.

Have fun!


Timothy R. Fitzmaurice
Oakland, California

 

[jon newman]

Rust and stainless

That was a well written procedure, I had no damage to the core, the holes were oversized from the factory to start, I believe this will do as it had for 17 years. I wish I had read this sooner as I have allready finished mine this weekend, I believe that if you use an epoxy sealer and filler, that you would have to remove a larger portion of the core so that the epoxy had a good foot to hold between the laminates.
As I stated mine was dry, and I felt that once tension was set there would be no movement of the blocks or the u-bolts, and the 101 seal will stay pliable for many years, if there was some plate movement. JENIII