Splicing Nut- anyone ever used one?

soup1438

Member II
Seen at "Strictly Sail"

I saw it being shown at "Strictly Sail" and, well... I was not entirely displeased. (smirks)

I can see that it's not really useful for a permanent application (especially here in Florida where the sun breaks things down *FAST*) but I was really tempted just to have 'em handy for when I need a loop.

I would normally just use a bowline to make a loop but also know that the knot impacts the "strength" of the sheet/halyard; I don't know what additional impacts this splicing nut has.

If I'd not been financially "on the ropes" I'd probably have bought a kit.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Solution looking for a problem?

I looked over the web site, and it sort of looks like a solution in search of a problem.

The problem with knots is that they weaken the line more than a splice, with a bowline loop only having 60% of the strength of the line from which it is made.

If I read the table correctly, the splicing nut only seems to provide on the order of 40% of the strength of the line. (Not sure about that, since they don't define what they mean by the terms "breaking strength", "working strength", and "max load".)

So it costs more than tying a knot, and has less strength?

I could understand it if it had 80% of the strength of the line but were easier than doing a splice. But as it is, I guess I don't get it.
 

jmoses

Member III
Got to wonder........

I'd wonder about UV degredation, micro-scopic cracking upon impact and weakness over time, not to mention, getting wacked in the head by it when on the foredeck (or elsewhere)..

Plus, it looks like one will need one gizmo for each line size. I guess I'll keep tying bowlines and worry about them untieing themselves at the most incovenient times, which has never happened in my 35 years of boating (profesionally and recreationally). Come to think of it, if you drop a part of the splicing nut (which will always end up in the water), you are up the creek without a paddle. So who is worse off? The guy with a loose bowline who can rapidly re-tie it or the sod with a missing piece to his Splicing Nut?

Plus, this sounds like fun on a tossing foredeck:

"If the nut is difficult to close, the closing motion on the nut should be, for every 1/2 turn of closure you back off a 1/4 turn and do another 1/2 turn of closure, with another 1/4 back turn and so on, (similar to a motorcycle throttle motion), until you bottom on the core! A proper line to SplicingNut sizing should have firm resistance to closing."

Nor does a bowline come with the following WARNINGS:

"Warning: Instructions must be followed exactly, please read the following cautions carefully.
SplicingNut is intended for use with braided line. It is not recommended for use in high tensile applications where the ultimate breaking strength of the line expected to be reached. A point of reference, the use of a knot reduces breaking strength of line to approximately 60-70 % of the listed break strength, 50% being the rule of thumb. Cordage institute standards call for lines to be tested in an eye to eye splice arrangement, most lines are not used in this fashion. See recommendation chart for further information. Manufacturers intending to use this part as an OEM should contact our engineering dept. for a full range of options and load applications.

Lines with heavy and tightly covered outer sleeves such as climbing ropes and marine lines such as Samson’s warp speed are not recommended, this product should not be used with this type of line. Line with a soft hand that takes a turn easily works best with our product.

This version of our product is not intended for use with high tensile lines such as Sampson’s Amstel unless the line’s tensile bearing capabilities are being used strictly for it’s elongation properties and the actual loads are comparable to what would be expected for high quality braided polyester line. This product should not be used for unattended dock lines, anchor lines or other applications where storm surge may bring the line to loads close to the breaking strength.

When using aloft or with overhead loads Always check inspection port for presence of the bitter end of the line. Man aloft or overhead loads, Do not exceed the working load of the line. We give the working load of a line as a 5:1, this safety factor is a standard in engineering practice for ground applications.



Oh well, Mr. old fashion bowline man,

John M.
 

Chris Miller

Sustaining Member
I'll give em a try...

I ordered a couple (they aren't expensive) and will give them a try... I'm sure they'll be useful somewhere. I don't like all the bulk associated with the bowline in some applications. Nothing worse than having one stick in the rig. I figure if we never tried anything new we'd all still call sailing at 80 degrees apparent "beating" and be using hemp for rope and canvas for sails. For $7.00 I'll give the guy a try. Maybe with good feedback he can address some of the concerns or try to try to standardize uses for them. Trust me, this is not going on a main or genoa halyard! I'm hoping if they work and he comes out with larger sizes that we can use them for jib sheets... maybe a heatshrink wrap around to help with the UV?

I'll post impressions here when I try them...
Thanks as always for the thoughts :cheers:
Chris
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
splicing nuts

In a panic tie a bowline knot, if you have time do an eye splice. I did my first eye splice on a piece of old stiff braid over braid a couple of nights ago with scotch tape and a paper clip and was surprised how easy it was. The stiff line was hard to work but new line would be a breeze. Besides you might impress a friend by doing the eye splice. Cost of an eye splice five minutes.

Jib sheets, use one piece of line and fold in the center, form an eye large enough for the two ends to pass through, with the two lines parallel whip together about three inches of the two lines beyond the eye, pass the eye through the clue and then pass the two ends through the eye then draw tight. You have no knots, shackles or anything to hang on shrouds. If you remove the sheets from the jib for storage this is not for you.
 
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