Extraction, cleaning, and reinstallation of four fixed ports on 1975 Ericson 25.

[toddster]

Also, the Catalina directions call for dressing the gasket inside and out with silicone caulk. After spending a week scrubbing that nastiness off the frames, I just couldn’t bring myself to do it. Instead, I used a THIN coat of Dow silicone vacuum grease, which I keep on hand in my workshop, and which is MUCH easier to clean up. So far, so good. My work involves a lot of gas-tight seals (think space station air-lock sort of deal) and the biggest problem with those is people putting too much goop on the seals. A little (clean) dab’l do ya!

 

[Glenn McCarthy]

I asked Catalina Direct for the window gasket directions. Here they are View attachment WindowGasketInstallation.pdf.

I've been keeping my step by step list which is different, once done, I'll publish it.

I didn't have success for gaskets with Catalina Direct, they did not wish to help an Ericson guy. So I tried the Wefco Rubber route, they said they would ship in 2 weeks. Then I went to CR Laurence (Manufacturer, and wholesales only) and sent them an email which says it is quick turnaround and didn't hear for 1/2 day. Then I went to DK Hardware. While the nomenclature of their descriptions isn't rock solid to me, I did message back and forth and came to the conclusion that the 753C gasket will do the job and ordered 100' for $40. I think I will re-use the black trim gasket for all windows that doesn't do anything but window dressing. It was $10 for regular shipping, $60 for 2-day shipping and $100 for 1-day shipping.

 

[Glenn McCarthy]

Lessons learned so far:
1. The small portlights re-assemble relatively easy.
2. The long portlights do not re-assemble at all. I was not a fan of the Catalina suggestion of using silicone on the inside of the new gasket as my old gasket had none. I can imagine that silicone being as smooth as the gasket on glass forming a perfect seal. But, that gasket has a mind of its own, it slips and slides all over the place, getting trapped inside, or sticking out too much (I used a broken off wood shim to push it in which works just fine). Where the two halves push together the gasket bunches up like no tomorrow. Mmaybe just a light application of silicone down at the base of the gasket would do the trick, let it dry for a day then install?
3. The first long glass I go to install is laminated, two pieces of glass on the outside with a plastic in the middle. It is thicker than the single pane glass thickness of the small portlights. It does not want to re-assemble, it is tighter than tight. It took no time at all for the glass to break like a palm frond at the front end. I had to walk away and cool off. I come back to find that the other three long glass are single pane glass just like the small portlights. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? I contact the marina in the other thread that said an Ericson 35 in Cali burned to ask if they could contact the owner for me and if they would sell the front port portlight to me (cut it out with a sawzall). They said that the windows were smashed to get the firefighting water into the boat. I've tracked down a new piece of Lexan/Polycarbonate for $20. On the road again!

I re-installed the remaining portlights, fearing I will have to rebuild the three long portlights as the gasket is bunched in a few places on each. Not ready to put "portlilght rebuilder" on my resume just yet!

 

[kapnkd]

D

Lessons learned so far:
1. The small portlights re-assemble relatively easy.
2. The long portlights do not re-assemble at all. I was not a fan of the Catalina suggestion of using silicone on the inside of the new gasket as my old gasket had none. I can imagine that silicone being as smooth as the gasket on glass forming a perfect seal. But, that gasket has a mind of its own, it slips and slides all over the place, getting trapped inside, or sticking out too much (I used a broken off wood shim to push it in which works just fine). Where the two halves push together the gasket bunches up like no tomorrow. Mmaybe just a light application of silicone down at the base of the gasket would do the trick, let it dry for a day then install?
3. The first long glass I go to install is laminated, two pieces of glass on the outside with a plastic in the middle. It is thicker than the single pane glass thickness of the small portlights. It does not want to re-assemble, it is tighter than tight. It took no time at all for the glass to break like a palm frond at the front end. I had to walk away and cool off. I come back to find that the other three long glass are single pane glass just like the small portlights. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? I contact the marina in the other thread that said an Ericson 35 in Cali burned to ask if they could contact the owner for me and if they would sell the front port portlight to me (cut it out with a sawzall). They said that the windows were smashed to get the firefighting water into the boat. I've tracked down a new piece of Lexan/Polycarbonate for $20. On the road again!

I re-installed the remaining portlights, fearing I will have to rebuild the three long portlights as the gasket is bunched in a few places on each. Not ready to put "portlilght rebuilder" on my resume just yet!

Hi Glenn,

I/we took our large ports/windows apart put in new seals and got them back together with the help of a 2 piece jig or clamping device I made of plywood. All it did was create a flat long surface for the clamps to apply the needed pressure to squeeze both haves back together.

I’ve posted it on EYO before so will try to find and send you the link. ...OR...Scroll through my posts to the date of 10.28.2015 - there are photos as well.
-kerry

 

[toddster]

If some of your glass is thicker than the rest (1/4”, which is more common these days, instead of 3/16”) then the standard gasket will never work. An all-caulk installation may be the only way to do those.

A light bead of silicone grease (not caulk) and gentle heat makes everything slide together more better.

 

[kapnkd]

If some of your glass is thicker than the rest (1/4”, which is more common these days, instead of 3/16”) then the standard gasket will never work. An all-caulk installation may be the only way to do those.

A light bead of silicone grease (not caulk) and gentle heat makes everything slide together more better.

We replaced the glass in all of our smaller ports as they were fogging up around the edges (due to silicone sealant so I heard). the newer glass was the thinner plate and those ports did go together much more easily for sure.

The glass from the larger 4 ports was still in good shape so we used them again. We DID get new seals from a company close to Cleveland, OH. and it actually all fit together again - after adding a few new 4 letter words to my sailing vocabulary and a LOT of patience. ...This company has a very large selection of seals and is also cheaper in cost than ordering the kit from Catalina.

Here’s the contact for that company and they have a huge selection/variety of rubber and silicone moldings/extrusions. They had the exact seals for our glass to frame ports on our ‘73 vintage Ericson.

LK Technology, Inc.
5116 Warrensville Ctr Rd.
Cleveland, OH 44137

NOTE: One DOES need to make a compression jig to get those larger ports to squeeze tightly together again given the angled slope of the design. Here's the link to a post I made back in 2015 showing the compression fixtures I created that allows one to clamp both ends and get proper compression of the two halves....

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...e)-windows-ports&p=94556&highlight=#post94556

 

[Glenn McCarthy]

To Kapnkd, I just used a couple of bar clamps to squeeze the two halves of the frame together. Seemed to work alright.

Here are the 18 steps I used to rebuild the portlights on the 1976 E35

 

[kapnkd]

To Kapnkd, I just used a couple of bar clamps to squeeze the two halves of the frame together. Seemed to work alright.

Here are the 18 steps I used to rebuild the portlights on the 1976 E35

Great step by step “How To” write up!! I’m sure others will find your experience and well documented information of great value.

For me/us, the smaller ports were a breeze with just the clamps BUT with the clamps on the larger ports/window frame halves - the acute angles refused to squeeze together properly. Glad it worked well for you without having to make a time consuming compression jig.

 

[Aaron Lifschutz]

finally rebedding portlights on e25

I for one and I am sure there are several others that have the Catalina kit with lots of left over gaskets and sealants. If you need "stuff" just say so and it's yours.

MJS

Hello again, I am finally ready to install my refurbished portlights on my e25, and was wondering if you may have some extra gasket material left over. The ports appear to be similar to catalina style ports, with 3/16" thickness on the glass panes. Please respond if you do have "stuff", or if you know where else I might find some without purchasing the entire replacement kit. Thanks much, Aaron

 

[kapnkd]

Hello again, I am finally ready to install my refurbished portlights on my e25, and was wondering if you may have some extra gasket material left over. The ports appear to be similar to catalina style ports, with 3/16" thickness on the glass panes. Please respond if you do have "stuff", or if you know where else I might find some without purchasing the entire replacement kit. Thanks much, Aaron

Hi Aaron,

Unfortunately we used everything we had. It was given to me by a friend and was luckily just enough for our needs. The company named in my previous post has it and at a better price than Catalina.

 

[toddster]

I've got about three spans (15 - 18 feet) of each gasket that I could part with. One or two pounds shipping cost, depending on what I can find to pack it into - probably will fit in a flat-rate envelope. PM to arrange.

(I don't plan to go through this again because I've scrounged up a set of Atkins & Hoyle opening ports to replace all these flimsy OEM things, next time they leak. Of course, those will also need refurbishment, with entirely different gaskets...)

 

[Aaron Lifschutz]

I for one and I am sure there are several others that have the Catalina kit with lots of left over gaskets and sealants. If you need "stuff" just say so and it's yours.

MJS

I was wondering if you still had 'catalina' port light gasket and filler strips left from reinstalling yours. I need about 25 feet and don't want to purchase entire kit? Thanks, Aaron

 

[Aaron Lifschutz]

I've got about three spans (15 - 18 feet) of each gasket that I could part with. One or two pounds shipping cost, depending on what I can find to pack it into - probably will fit in a flat-rate envelope. PM to arrange.

(I don't plan to go through this again because I've scrounged up a set of Atkins & Hoyle opening ports to replace all these flimsy OEM things, next time they leak. Of course, those will also need refurbishment, with entirely different gaskets...)

I need 4 lengths of 5 feet of each type, the sealer and filler gaskets, would be more than happy to cover shipping costs plus something for your time.

 

[tpcorrigan]

I was wondering if you still had 'catalina' port light gasket and filler strips left from reinstalling yours. I need about 25 feet and don't want to purchase entire kit? Thanks, Aaron

Yes, not sure how long but you can have what I got. I will try to measure length later.

 

[toddster]

I need 4 lengths of 5 feet of each type, the sealer and filler gaskets, would be more than happy to cover shipping costs plus something for your time.

Sorry, I passed that on to another member a while back.

 

[mjsouleman]

Aaron,
If you need the Catalina port light gasket material, I can mail what I have to you.
How much do you need.

send me a private note and we can coordinate
Mark "Souleman" Soule

 

[paramita]

First, silicone is a bear to remove from portlights. You might try a brass brush wheel on a bench grinder along with many different types of nasty solvent.

Second, count me as one who actually likes butyl tape to install portlights. It's easy to remove the portlights if needed, it cleans up with mineral spirits and its non-messy to apply. I have successfully bedded 12 portlights on two boats with butyl with only one leak that appeared immediately and was easily fixed by pulling the portlight out and adding a bunch more butyi to an area that was a bit thin. The Bed-It butyl from Maine Sail is superior to all others. Loren is right, the butyl will deform the portlight frames if it is cold. Use a heat gun to soften it up (or pick a hot day), and tighten the frames down slowly over a day or two. Don't pull off the squeezed out butyl until you have done several rounds of heating and tightening (it's easier to get a clean line pulling it all off at once). Might be worth a try on one and if you don't like how it turns out it's easy to remove all traces of butyl and start over with a sealant of your choice (SikaFlex 291 gets my vote too).

Also, if you aren't happy with the rubber gasket (I ordered two different sizes from CatalinaDirect but never found one that fit the thick tempered glass in my portlights), you could use a heavy bead of Dow 795 in the frame and bed the glass directly into it. 2 years and holding on mine so far. Note that this is a fairly permanent solution. Hopefully it will last many years. Its used to install glass in aluminum channels on high rise buildings so it should be pretty good. I figure when it starts leaking I will have moved on to the next boat, or I will replace all the portlights with newer versions rather than trying to excavate all that 795. Also a $5 rubber profile caulking tool is great for getting a clean edge.

Oh and make sure if any silicone is on the cabin top, to remove it, you may need to be sand down the gelcoat a bit to give the butyl or sealant something to grab onto.

Good luck

Heya @bigd14 - Just curious if you're still happy (and dry) with your solution of skipping the glazing and just bedding the glass in the frame with Dow 795?

 

[bigd14]

Still going strong. No leaks or mold or even any separation. I’m very happy with it. The butyl is also sealing the frames to the boat perfectly. It’s my understanding that Dow 795 is used in commercial glazing applications like office building windows to bond glass to aluminum.

 

[hvantrigt]

Does anyone know where they sell the rubber glazing around the edge of the window

 

[Christian Williams]

Replacing Fixed Ports (Windows): https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/replacing-fixed-windows-research-master-thread.9603/
Replacing gaskets on Fixed Ports (Windows): https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/thread...main-large-windows-ports-master-thread.13578/