Outhaul/Reefing help

[Natcho]

New sailor here and I’m trying to figure out the rigging setup for the outhaul (or what I believe is the outhaul?) on my 1971 E-27. Although I have a couple hundred photos after going through the process of replacing the standing rigging and rebedding all the thru deck hardware, somehow I don’t actually have one clearly showing the starboard side of the boom. But hopefully the photos I do have plus my amateur drawing are enough to show the setup? No clue if the hardware (or spar for that matter) are original or not. In the drawing, the thing toward the gooseneck is my attempt at drawing a clam cleat.

Any advice on how to rig and use this outhaul? Any photos of similar setups much appreciated.

 

[Jerry VB]

That is for reefing your mainsail. There should be a fixed loop fitting on the port side of the boom. Tie a stopper knot in your reefing line, go up through the reefing cringle and back down to the cheek block (pictured). From there you go forward to the mast. There should be a cleat on the boom by the mast.

To reef, drop the main to slightly below the reefing position, fasten the luff reefing cringle at the mast/boom, and re-tension the mainsail halyard. Then pull the reefing outhaul line until the reefing cringle is tight against the boom (make sure the mainsheet is loose enough to allow this) and cleat it off. The cheek block should set to be somewhat aft of where the reefing cringle meets the boom so the sail is tensioned aft when reefed.

 

[southofvictor]

If you don’t have an outhaul sheave in the end of of your boom you can set up an external outhaul like this. I set up like this on my Spruit last summer with lashings rather than drilling anything to test it out. Worked well. I’ll probably screw everything in this summer.

 

[Gaviate]

As Jim shows above, my outhaul is located on Port side of boom, I have a Harken 10:1 which came with the boat and presently needs bearings replaced. No photos but there is a cheek block located at end of boom, as illustrated by "B" above, with the tackle located near "C".
Happy Sailing!

 

[Natcho]

Thanks all. The reefing setup is clear, thanks for pointing that out. Even came across this diagram which shows how it should work.

I’m still not sure about the outhaul though. The only hardware that was left on the boom was a single shackle at the boom end: no lines, blocks, sheaves, or cleats/jams. Currently, the topping lift runs on the port side of the boom so I’d probably need to run the external setup on the starboard side—possibly making use of the clam cleat that is already installed for the reefing track? I may do a simple 2:1 setup for now until I can set up something closer to what @southofvictor suggests.

 

[Jerry VB]

I’m still not sure about the outhaul though. The only hardware that was left on the boom was a single shackle at the boom end: no lines, blocks, sheaves, or cleats/jams.

On my E27 there was a block on the shackle at the end of the boom. The outhaul went from the sail, through the block, and then was cleated off on a cleat near the end of the boom. I don't see that cleat on your pictures. Not a great picture but...

 

[Natcho]

Nope, no cleat there unfortunately. Looks like the answer in general is that additional hardware will be needed. I’m just curious how the previous owner (40 yrs) tensioned the foot of the sail…

Also not a great photo, but attached is a photo showing the topping lift setup (and the lonely bronze shackle at the boom end). Wire line labeled “I” connects to the split backstay tang (of which, why have this in addition to the topping lift?).

 

[Jerry VB]

I’m just curious how the previous owner (40 yrs) tensioned the foot of the sail

Poorly. ;-) Probably just tied it to the shackle at the end of the boom.

The wire line labeled "I" from the boom to the split backstay is very nice.

1. It is much less likely to chafe and break vs. the topping lift.
2. With the boom clipped to the backstay, it doesn't swing when the boat rolls at anchor / dock. We now have a E32 and I have to lash the boom to the side when the boat is "stowed" so the boom doesn't swing back and forth across the boat.
3. On my E27, I rarely changed the topping lift length - I set it for sailing and left it. Without the backstay clip, you would need to shorten the topping lift every time you "stow" your boat and lengthen it every time you go sailing.

 

[toddster]

I have that style of boom with a semi-internal outhaul fitted. That boom clearly lacks it. It has a little car that rides on a short track bolted to the top of the boom. There are diagrams in the E29 on-line manual - maybe others. But as far as I can determine, with the bolt-rope footed main, the outhaul doesn't really do much. I wouldn't worry about it unless you have a loose-footed sail.

 

[Blue Streak]

I too am a new Ericson owner looking for suggestions as to how best to set up my reefing. My internal line runs from the starboard side of the boom at the clew and exits beneath the boom at the tack.




There is no block on the port side.
One set of reef points.
No reefing horn at the tack.
Suggestions?
Something like this?

 

[Christian Williams]

Your diagram makes sense. But what is the line at "A"? Typically that would be cleated on the boom. but I don't see a cleat.

Do you have a sheave for that line at the end of the boom (like the sheave for the outhaul)?

It seems to me that "C" is a fitting designed to hold a block. And "B" is a jam cleat with fairlead hole for a small diameter line. I don't know what that's for. It could be external reef line (although not a very secure one).

What's the slack blue line tied to the end of the boom?

 

[Blue Streak]

Your diagram makes sense. But what is the line at "A"?

I think it’s intended to be the reef line to the aft crinkle. It leads forward and drops from the underside of the boom.

Do you have a sheave for that line at the end of the boom (like the sheave for the outhaul)?
There is only one sheave at the end of the boom, and it feeds a 9-strand wire outhaul

It seems to me that "C" is a fitting designed to hold a block.

But isn’t that a strange angle?

D is just a tiny downward facing hook. Weird.

And "B" is a jam cleat with fairlead hole for a small diameter line. I don't know what that's for. It could be external reef line (although not a very secure one).

I have no clue what it’s for either.

What's the slack blue line tied to the end of the boom?

That’s the topping lift.

View attachment 43578

 

[Blue Streak]

Your diagram makes sense. But what is the line at "A"? Typically that would be cleated on the boom. but I don't see a cleat.

Do you have a sheave for that line at the end of the boom (like the sheave for the outhaul)?

It seems to me that "C" is a fitting designed to hold a block. And "B" is a jam cleat with fairlead hole for a small diameter line. I don't know what that's for. It could be external reef line (although not a very secure one).

What's the slack blue line tied to the end of the boom?

View attachment 43578

You were right, when you said that the old girl looked “pretty beat up,” but the only way to get a slip on Lake Dillon is to buy a boat with a slip, and the “pickins is slim.”

But the scenery does not suck.

 

[Jerry VB]

D is just a tiny downward facing hook. Weird.

There are four "D" downward facing hooks spaced out along the boom. I suspect there are a similar number on the other side or maybe loops instead of hooks? My speculation is that the hooks are to snag bungie(s) on to hold the sail to the mast, possibly one longer bungie that zig-zags back and forth across the sail.

Something like this: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/hunter-34.147808/#post-981366 (click the attachment to see the PDF)

 

[Blue Streak]

There are four "D" downward facing hooks spaced out along the boom. I suspect there are a similar number on the other side or maybe loops instead of hooks? My speculation is that the hooks are to snag bungie(s) on to hold the sail to the mast, possibly one longer bungie that zig-zags back and forth across the sail.

Something like this: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/hunter-34.147808/#post-981366 (click the attachment to see the PDF)

I’ll buy that explanation.
Thanks.

 

[Loren Beach]

But the scenery does not suck.

Oh My. No it does NOT.

 

[Christian Williams]

The sheave at "A" is a halyard sheave box. It only works to pull a line one way--towards the gooseneck. So it won;t work for slab reefing.

To install external slab reefing, you need a cheek block there, to handle downward pull of the reef line. You can install a cleat for it on the side of the boom, near the gooseneck, or run it back to a cockpit winch. A winch is better, because it's hard to flatten a luffing sail without a purchase.

To secure the reef line to the boom (after it goes through the leech cringle), any eye strap would work as a tie-off. Ericson equipped boats with a dual purpose cheek block and tie-off, similar to this. (The ring to tie off the reef line to the boom is actually mounted upsidedown in this picture, because the line is supposed to wrap under the boom). The track is only there so the position of the cheek blocks can be adjusted for No. 1 and No. 2 reefs, which require different block placement. But all that complication not needed by boats with internal reef lines and a loose-footed main, since you can just tie a bowline around the boom for the same effect.



In Natcho's Pic No. 1 he has such a sliding cheek block on a boom similar to yours--and a cleat for it at the gooseneck end.



It's nice to have a horn, or permanent reef tack downhaul, but temporarily you could just tie the first reef tack around the gooseneck--anything to secure it before you re-tension the luff.

Your boom seems newly painted (or new?), no scratches at all. Maybe the former owner could speak to the puzzle of the hardware as installed.

 

[Blue Streak]

The sheave at "A" is a halyard sheave box. It only works to pull a line one way--towards the gooseneck. So it won;t work for slab reefing.

To install external slab reefing, you need a cheek block there, to handle downward pull of the reef line. You can install a cleat for it on the side of the boom, near the gooseneck, or run it back to a cockpit winch. A winch is better, because it's hard to flatten a luffing sail without a purchase.

To secure the reef line to the boom (after it goes through the leech cringle), any eye strap would work as a tie-off. Ericson equipped boats with a dual purpose cheek block and tie-off, similar to this. (The ring to tie off the reef line to the boom is actually mounted upsidedown in this picture, because the line is supposed to wrap under the boom). The track is only there so the position of the cheek blocks can be adjusted for No. 1 and No. 2 reefs, which require different block placement. But all that complication not needed by boats with internal reef lines and a loose-footed main, since you can just tie a bowline around the boom for the same effect.

In Nacho's Pic No. 1 he has such a sliding cheek block on a boom similar to yours--and a cleat for it at the gooseneck end.

View attachment 43581

It's nice to have a horn, or permanent reef tack downhaul, but temporarily you could just tie the first reef tack around the gooseneck--anything to secure it before you re-tension the luff.

Your boom seems newly painted (or new?), no scratches at all. Maybe the former owner could speak to the puzzle of the hardware as installed.

Thanks for the help. I sincerely appreciate it. Unfortunately the PO has moved on to the other side, and his daughter (who I bought the boat from) is pretty clueless on such things.

 

[bgary]

I think it’s intended to be the reef line to the aft crinkle. It leads forward and drops from the underside of the boom.

possible, but doubtful. that sheave-box is positioned for a horizontal load, not vertical. A line leading down from a reef cringle on the leech of the main won't run (smoothly, if at all) through that thing.

 

[Blue Streak]

possible, but doubtful. that sheave-box is positioned for a horizontal load, not vertical. A line leading down from a reef cringle on the leech of the main won't run (smoothly, if at all) through that thing.

That’s why I was stumped.
Then what is it for?