Recent content by eknebel

Ah, the port locker, don’t get stuck!

Best modification I have made! I changed the original 4:1 to a 2 speed 4:1/16:1. My wife can easily trim using the 16:1.

MARYLAND NAUTICAL Your Complete Navigation Resource Center 1400 E. Clement St. Baltimore, MD 21230 (USA) Tel: 410.752.4268, Ext. 253 Fax: 410.685.5068 sales@mdnautical.com www.mdnautical.com I used the above for new diaphragm, dome, and o ring(around $75). They also offer refurbishment, if...

I have beer can raced against Pearson 30's, and with sails in similar condition, found them pretty equal, except close hauled. I have a shoal keel, so can't point as high, and so I crack off a little, and hope to keep the vmg similar. Thus, I typically tack thru 95-100 degrees upwind, starting...

Sorry don’t remember size, I think the cables need disconnecting to reassemble without kinks. It’s not hard.

The plan sounds similar to how I successfully removed my rudder. You may want to replace the rudder shaft packing gland material while you are back there. Plan on two people to reinstall, to make bolt/shaft alignment easier. It isn’t complicated, but do pay attention reinstalling the cables to...

I did it! I installed my thru hull on the port side instead of starboard, since I didn’t have to move the holding tank, and no cutting a visible access port in the “v berth seat”(see above red cuzie). Just above the shelf for tank was as deep as I went(see green tape in 2nd exterior picture) In...

There are many to choose from. I liked the low battery alarm and Velcro mounting sensor, and loud alarm. https://www.amazon.com/Instapark-Leakage-Detection-Sensor-Battery/dp/B01IWTCLHA If I had WiFi at the home marina , I might have sprung for one that sends a email alert too, but the ones I...

I will keep you in mind, likely mid May. I have a few projects to finish, plus bring the boat up from hampton roads, va. to its home off Round Bay on the Severn.

A a sobering story, thankfully Richard was rescued successfully. Trying to envision what it was like to find a significant amount of water below, solo and in heavy weather at night, was unsettling to say the least. This thread has illustrated several ways a boat can sink. This got me...

I when to the boat today, and was surprised to discover that I had cut away the plywood also(I cannot remember not to trust my memory) . My plywood starts 5.5 inches from the forward edge of the tank. The baffle is indeed about 12 inches from the front(whew!).

I had to built angle adjustable molds to make the tapered angle, curious to see what the estimate is. It was many, many hours, a pro would do it quicker.

I went with lewmar 4l and 4r( 1 right and 1 left per side). your ports are likely a different size. Be careful if there is curvature on the cabin side, as opening ports especially have to be flat. This required me to build up with FRP about 3/8 inch on each port to make it flat, as well as...

I recently replaced the 1/4" teak ply along the interior due to rot. On my 30+, the FRP was about 3/16", with no core. The old ply was somewhat haphazardly attached with polyester resin. The resin was applied in ribbons, with no real pattern, and not much adhesion to the plywood(it mostly came...

My plywood board starts about 12-14 inches aft of the front of the tank, so I didn't have to cut it. The 23 gal is a little smaller than the 25 gal that i have measured, maybe the reason for no baffle? Or maybe the larger board allows for distributing the load from the water heater and maintenance?