1990 Raritan Toilet Maintenance

[aquavit]

Hello to all;

I have purchased a 1990 E28 that I will be bringing home to Canada at the end of May. My first sail on the boat will be from Waukegan Illinois to Penetanguishene Ontario, 7 - 10 days on the boat with a crew of 3 guys and as few stops as possible. Obviously, we want the toilet to work!! Since I will not be near the boat again until we go to get it, I would appreciate any knowledge from anyone here that can say, the toilet is definitely (or probably) a "model 99 turd tosser" or whatever it happens to be. As well as that info, a link to a maintenance procedure document would help me to gather any required parts and supplies before we arrive at the boat.

Thanks in advance, and I hope nobody is offended by the word "turd"

Glenn McMullin

 

[Chris A.]

Raritan PHII

On our 1987 E 34 it is a Raritan PHII. An additional "e" in the model number designates the electric model. There is a rebuild kit available for seals, joker valves, check valves, etc. You can also purchase the entire pump assembly as a unit. I believe west marine has both the rebuild kit and the entire pump assembly, and you probably can get both from Raritan.

Here's the link:

Raritan PHII

Hope that helps!

 

[aquavit]

From the pictures that I have, I would say that is the unit in question. Thanks for your help.

Glenn

 

[Randy Rutledge]

Don't forget the pump for evacuating the holding tank and the seacocks, you will need them functional also. Get some of the blue liquid stuff for portapotties to keep the odor down, add a little to the tank and daily add a little more..

 

[joe-fran]

head rebuild

Glen

I bought a 1988 E-28 last summer. The toilet would slowly back up and the holding tank pump would not empty the tank. This winter I bought a Raritan rebuild kit from my local marine store (Cheaper than West and Defender) and rebuilt the head. Takes longer to take the head out of the boat and put it back in than the actual rebuild process.

The holding tank pump was the same story. Getting the pump out takes a bit. You need gorilla arms to reach in the back to get the bolts off. The rebuild is a 15 minute process (as I recall it was about $40.00 for the kit).

Best of luck on your cruise!!!

 

[u079721]

Remember that this boat is on the zero discharge Great Lakes. That means his pump is (or should be) disconnected, as is the overboard discharge seacock. They are probably still there, but they won't need service. The intake seacock will need to work though.

As suggested it would be good to get a rebuild kit to replace the joker and flapper valves. The head does not need to come out of the boat for this work. I would also thoroughly flush the holding tank by repeated fills and pump outs to loosen any solids present. finally it would be a good idea to check on the status of the holding tank vent. The line itself can plug, but most likely is spiders or gunk that can block the opening or the screen that sometimes covers the opening. (Believe me when I say that it will ruin your whole day if this thing plugs off when the tank is mostly full.)

Good luck with the delivery!

 

[aquavit]

The overboard discharge system is still onboard. I have not looked at the functionality of it but I am not planning on tossing anything foul into our lovely lakes. That would harm the newly immigrated Asian Carp wouldn't it?? I will verify that the vent is clear before we take off so that no high pressure ruptures occur. I am going to put a full rebuild kit into it before a single flush goes into it because I don't want to do it after the fact. :headb:
Thanks gents.

Glenn