28+ Hull/Deck joint

[bwindrope]

Hello all,
From my reading of the owners manual it appears that the hull/deck joint on the 28+ is glassed and has no bolts. Is this the case? If so, how does the rub rail attach to the boat? Is its only purpose rubbing protection and not to cover the hull/deck joint screws/bolts? Finally, if one of the metal corner caps is all shot, and they look like pot metal, is there a handy place to get replacements?

Many thanks.

 

[Randy Rutledge]

The hull and deck have flanges that are bolted together and bonded then layers of glass laid up inside the joint. The bolts are then removed and the flange is cut off leaving what I suspect to be an ugly joint that is covered by the rub rail, the rail is screwed into the glass of the joint. If removed bed the screws upon reassembly.

 

[bwindrope]

Thanks Randy. What do you mean by "bed" the screws upon reassembly? If it is the case that the joint is glassed, how does this rate for strength and safety? Most things have a pro/con, and I have not heard of a glassed hull/deck joint. Also, any sources for the rubrail and metal corner caps?

Thanks,

 

[Randy Rutledge]

By bedding the screws I mean to coat the threads with a sealant to prevent water intrusion into the Glass layers or interior of the boat. (not 5200 sealant, mean stuff)

The deck joint should be as strong as or stronger than the hull or deck due to the layers of buildup at assembly. Look at specs and documents and documents index, scroll down to the E28 and look at page 10 of the owner’s manual and you will see the lay-up of the deck to hull joint. You will also find a lot of info there.
My .02
Bolting gives spot support where the bolts pass through the hull and deck tabs and can be no stronger than the tabs at the boltingpoints and they can add stress points to the joint. bonding and glass lay-up give continuous and even support to the joint. Very strong.

 

[Seth]

Randy has it right

His description of the process is right. Hull and deck both have outward facing flanges. The top is laid on the bottom (with bedding compound all along the flanges), and screws are run from top to bottom all around the flanges. The hull and deck are glassed together on the INSIDE. When this is set up and cured, the flanges are cut off along with the screws-(and this is your one unanswered question, leaving a 1/4-1/2 inch "lip" all around the boat. THIS is the lip which fits in the extrusion on the inside of the rubber rub rail. The rub rail is then screwed in horizontally into the lip (which is now bonded from the inside).... Does that complete your question? Let us know.

Cheers,
S

 

[Graham Cole]

Yup, just like my 30+ I replaced the alu. original rubrail with that white taco stuff and now applying a polished ss strip.

 

[bwindrope]

Thanks everyone

Thanks so much Seth, and Randy and Graham. I am very interested in these sorts of technical things, both out of sheer interest as well as a lifetime of wilderness travels where I have avoided death by trying to know my gear as well as the designers. Now it makes sense that if I were to have to replace the rub rail that I would be screwing right into straight fiberglass and that is why the screws would need to be sealed in place.

I suppose my only outstanding question is whether there are any particular hazards with this type of joint? Is there something I should make sure the surveyor knows or is it either bomb proof or common knowledge to surveyors?

Oh, and where can I get the corner metal? The aft starboard corner on this boat I'm considering is shot.

By the way, part of my willingness to purchase an Ericson is because of this vital support community online. For those of you who support and contribute your knowledge to the ignorant like me, thank you. I really appreciate the collective wisdom here, especially on a topic as old and detailed as sailing.

Cheers,