32-3 access hole to anchor drain tube and anchor well construction

[jtsai]

My 1990 Ericson 32-3 has a 5" access hole to the forepeak (picture #1). Through this access, reaching behind the V shaped fiberglass structure (picture #2) I am able to touch the leaky drain tube but unable to work on it due to the awkward angle. Enlarging the access hole is one of the options but the V shaped structure will remain a hinder. Another option is cutting off the V.

The V as seen in the picture does not have a front, not attached to the hull, and the anchor well bottom is few inches above the pointy V. Am I correct to assume this is a remnant of the anchor well construction and servers no purpose?

 

[peaman]

the anchor well bottom is few inches above the pointy V.

I wonder if there is any tabbing (pointy V-to-hull) below the level of the bottom of the anchor locker pan? If not, I would be inclined to try to remove enough of the pointy V to see the bottom of the pan.

Also, it looks like the access port could have been 6" instead of 5"? Also, I wonder if a bigger access opening of arbitrary shape, with a cover of a suitable flat plate would likewise allow better access to that area?

Thanks for posting these images.

 

[Christian Williams]

I think you need to remove the anchor pan to work on the drain tube.

Info here: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/e32-3-anchor-locker-drain.18269/#post-144319

 

[Kenneth K]

Another option is cutting off the V.

The V as seen in the picture does not have a front, not attached to the hull, and the anchor well bottom is few inches above the pointy V. Am I correct to assume this is a remnant of the anchor well construction and servers no purpose?

I'd buy a cheap (approx $30 from amazon) endoscope and get a look at the front side of that "V" to figure out what it is and what it attaches to before just cutting it off.

While you may get access to your drain tube from your interior access port, it is still worthwhile to remove the anchor pan. Doing so exposes all the hardware (stanchion bases, cleats, box light wiring), all of which could probably use re-bedding by now anyways.

 

[jtsai]

After sacrificing a few cutting blades and a screw driver to the bilge god, I now have access to the leaky anchor well tube. The anchor well floor is a few inches above the cutline. The cut off V-shaped "nose cone" is not completely enclosed as seen in the picture. I have no idea why it was there.

 

[peaman]

I have no idea why it was there.

I would guess that it is to minimize oil-canning in a pounding sea, which would be of concern only several inches above the the deep vee at the bow. So cutting off the bottom few-to-several inches would not seem to carry any risk of loss of integrity.

I may be speaking for other 32-3 owners in expressing my own appreciation for your pioneering in this endeavor with accompanying documentation.

 

[Christian Williams]

I wonder if that design is restricted to 1990 boats.

 

[jtsai]

I would guess that it is to minimize oil-canning in a pounding sea, which would be of concern only several inches above the the deep vee at the bow. So cutting off the bottom few-to-several inches would not seem to carry any risk of loss of integrity.

I may be speaking for other 32-3 owners in expressing my own appreciation for your pioneering in this endeavor with accompanying documentation.

I am certain it is not an enforcement piece to minimize oil-canning. The anchor well structure is not attached to the hull other than at the deck level.

 

[peaman]

I am certain it is not an enforcement piece to minimize oil-canning. The anchor well structure is not attached to the hull other than at the deck level.

But the panel which you cut: that's not attached to the anchor well pan, is it? The pan is actually forward of that panel? Of course the anchor well pan is not structural other than to hold the ground tackle, since it has been removed for re-bedding on other boats. It is possible that the panel you cut does not serve any structural purpose.

 

[toddster]

Perhaps it was supposed to be bonded to the hull. One of those things that looked good on paper but turns out to be physically impossible in practice.

 

[jtsai]

My speculation is the anchor well had a cone-shaped bottom during the fabrication. The front portion of the cone was cut off and a piece of wood was then inserted and became the anchor well floor. The remaining cone-shaped bottom was to position the anchor during assembly because there are several strategically placed screws on the cone-shaped area where I didn't cut. These screws are just long enough to contact the bulkhead that separates the V berth. I imagine they served as a guide as the entire anchor well assembly is lowered into the hull.

This may be unique to this 1990 32-3.

 

[Kenneth K]

Nice work and great discoveries. So, knowing what you know now, if I was to put in a 5" or 6" access plate (like you show in your original post) to provide access to the locker pan drain hose, would you locate it higher, lower, or the same as where yours is?

 

[jtsai]

I suggest installing the access plate higher than mine (and larger if possible) so both eye balls can peer through the hole while lying flat on the chest. I had to cut mine tilting my head and only able to see what I was doing with one eye, without depth perception. A bit scary knowing the hull is less than an inch away.

 

[bigd14]

Nice job. That is an extremely difficult and uncomfortable area to work in from below. One of the reasons I replaced the anchor pan with a glassed in anchor well was to avoid those kinds of gymnastics in the future. Of course working upside down in the anchor well isn't that much fun either. At least I can find the tools and fasteners that I drop.