Rudder tiller:
Ryan, I have just about all the parts in now. I bought the AP 24, AC12, etc. etc. with rudder position sensor and the compass, plus all the simnet cables. My drive unit is the HLD 350 Mk II hydraulic linear drive.
Two questions:
My instrument package is the outdated B&G H-1000 which appears to run on simnet/NMEA 0183. I know the AP 24 runs on simnet/NMEA 2000. Though I bought a AT-10, NMEA 0183 - NMEA 2000 converter, I may not need it to link the systems together. Did you run into any communication problem between your instruments and Autopilot?
Second, I presume that is an Edson rudder tiller. How precise was your measurements for the diameter of the rudder post when you had it made for you and did you drill the post with the rudder in the boat?
I'm still mulling what sort of foundation I'm going to build for the drive motor, but I'll be working on it all weekend. Our test-run race is in 2 weeks.
Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA
Hi Jim- If I'm not mistaken your unit uses Fastnet not Simnet. I did a quick look online at it looks to me that Fastnet is to 0183 what Simnet is to 2000. In other words, standardized data transferred through convenient to connect cables. From what I gather on this like (
http://www.mainstaymarine.com/sites/default/files/h1000_nmea_interface_instal.pdf) it looks like you should be able to easily cut a fastnet cable and peel apart the wires you need for 0183. From there it's easy to go to a terminal block connected to your AT10.
Are you familiar with 0183 and 2K? If not I can try to give whatever info you need. Otherwise it's really easy plug and play once you have all the data on Simnet (2K). IIRC the AC or AP instructions have some very useful diagrams showing the connections for different sized simnet networks. Make sure you note that there must be terminators (red plug) at the "ends." It sounds like in your case most likely one terminator will be the DC power to the Simnet backbone and the other most likely on the open plug of your AP24 (assuming you run your AT10 to the backbone). I maybe using the wrong terms for some of this but you get the idea.
Here's one possible list of connections:
[H1000 (NEMA 0183) -> terminal block -> AT10] -> simnet joiner
AP24 -> simnet joiner
Terminator plug in AP24
Simnet DC cable (terminator) -> simnet joiner
simnet cable from joiner to the AC12 (cable will be cut and separated into individual strands to connect to AC12)
Rudder position indicator to joiner or AC12 depending on if you have the unit that outputs simnet or the one with two individual wires.
Your linear drive to AC12 (two pairs of wires, one for solenoid and one for drive power)
GPS/Chartplotter/etc -> terminal block -> another AT10 -> simnet joiner [unless you have a simnet compatible plotter etc]
If their baud rate is the same you may be able to have your 0183 stuff (gps/chartplotter and H1000) share an AT10 by combining their "talker" (Tx, Out, etc) connections on the same screw of the terminal block. I don't know. But if it were me I'd probably try that before buying another AT10...
If you only have 2 weeks (and presumably are mostly working on the weekends?) I'd strongly consider a mount similar to what we did. Making your own G10 mount will probably cost less and take less total time than having something fabricated out of metal and it's certainly easier to modify if you're not certain on the design... G10 has zero corrosion or electrolysis issues. It's easy to drill. It can be tapped. And it can be easily epoxied or glassed. The downside of G10 is it can be difficult to cut. We used a friend's diamond blade tile saw and it was fairly easy. G10 can be ordered from McMaster Carr or purchased locally in most cities.
I'm not certain but I think I remember Edson requiring .00 precision for the rudder post. I used digital calipers and measured about a dozen times... You want to get on that asap as it can take them a while to machine the part. Ours was 3.48" if memory serves. They keep records of previous orders and I was glad to hear that other E38's had the same measurement.
I drilled the hole with the rudder in place. It was easy to do because I installed an inspection hatch on the bulkhead just forward of the rudder. If you're familiar with drilling stainless you won't have any problems. Usual stuff applies- sharp bits, start with small bit, center punch before drill, cutting fluid, slow RPMs, lots of pressure, etc.
Heads up- you might want to remove the plate that gives access for your emergency tiller and look into the rudder tube before you drill. Often water collects in there (mostly from rain or washdowns). If so, you may want to pump that out before you drill... We used a drill pump and it only took a few minutes.
To make sure the two holes in the rudder post were aligned BEFORE we drilled the second hole I placed a tightened hose clamp on the post positioned so it just touched the bottom of the first hole. That gave me a reference for the vertical measurement. From there it was easy to measure the correct distance around the post to make the punch and drill.
Good luck! I'm happy to answer any other questions.
Ryan
