any riggers in the house?

[missalot]

Once upon a time, I read somewhere that when swaging rigging it was a practice to put lanolin in the swage to help combat water/salt intrusion. When recently checking out rigging shops, Shop A claims to put polysulfide in the swage then measure the finished swage to verify it meets mil-specs. Shop B puts them together dry and instructs the customer to hit each swage with WD-40 at least once a year to fight the water/salt intrusion.

Who's right, Shop A or Shop B?

 

[Frank Langer]

I rubbed some lanolin on the turnbuckle threads on our shrouds and backstay, and at the same time, rubbed some into the wire/swage connections, thinking that it would keep water from running down the wire into the swage. I did it on a dry day to avoid trapping any moisture that might already be in the swage.

Any comments on whether this is a good idea would also be welcome.

Frank

 

[AleksT]

Both ways will work, but you should measure the finished swage like shop A does.

 

[Guy Stevens]

Nix the WD-40

Nix the WD-40. It is kerosene and soap, it will attract moisture and aid in the corrosion of the stay once the kerosene evaporates leaving only soap.

The issues are much more complex than a simple application of sheep's sweat (anhydrous lanolin) or bees wax etc.

Crevice corrosion and work hardening are the two killers of SS standing rigging. The bigger issue than possible moisture intrusion into a swage is work hardening which happens over time.

I used to have some well done swages cut in half. If the swage is correctly done water intrusion is not an issue, the swage cold forms the metal of the terminal and the metal of the stay into one solid piece. It is pretty impressive.

The process for old terminals splitting is different, it is caused by crevice corrosion and expansion inside the swage. The crevice corrosion allow the water to enter the swage, the corrosion expands the swage causing the crack that you see on the outside. The water did not just flow into there to begin with.

Remember Rust (corrosion) never sleeps.

Most people think rigging lasts forever. In reality depending on where in the country you have your boat, a SAFE lifetime for most rigging is between 5 and 15 years.

That 30 year old rig that looks fine, is not fine. Work hardening has significantly degraded the rig. Even just sitting at the dock, or heaven forbid being on the hard with the rig up!

Guy

 

[u079721]

Once upon a time, I read somewhere that when swaging rigging it was a practice to put lanolin in the swage to help combat water/salt intrusion. When recently checking out rigging shops, Shop A claims to put polysulfide in the swage then measure the finished swage to verify it meets mil-specs. Shop B puts them together dry and instructs the customer to hit each swage with WD-40 at least once a year to fight the water/salt intrusion.

Who's right, Shop A or Shop B?

I'd say neither is right. I was taught that you could combat water intrusion in a swage by first filling it with marine grade silicone. Note that the idea is to use the non-corrosive marine grade, NOT the stuff that gives off acetic acid (vinegar to you non-chemists) when it cures.

 

[rwthomas1]

You know the old saying, ask a question get many "right" answers!

The local rigger that did my new standing rigging in '08 dipped the wire in some black goop before inserting it in the swage and pressing it. He showed me several swages cut in half, and like Guy said, properly done they appear completely solid, no voids whatsoever. The amount of pressure required to do that is amazing.

RT

 

[mherrcat]

Any possibility you can find out what the "black goop" is called? It sounds like some stuff a friend told me about that is supposed to do the same thing as Tef-Gel but is used by the military; he couldn't remember the name of it.

 

[exoduse35]

this sounds like one of those questions they ask on all those ASE tests... The answer is almost always... D) neither a or b is right!