APS annual line and rigging sale

mjsouleman

Member III
This is a follow on to earlier discussion on page 1
(1983 Ericson 30+ boom painting and line replacement)

It is now mid-March and the weather this weekend brought two days of above 50 and no rain.

I used this window to remove the hardware and prime the boom that I removed in December.

When the next weather window comes, I will apply a coat of white paint.

Now to point of this note:
1. What should I use to prevent bi-metal corrosion when re-installing hardware?
2. Is there a way to remove cleats that are bi-metal corroded to a point where they can not be removed?


For those looking for comparable cost and sizes for an Ericson 30+, see below:

LINES:
Boom Length: 13 Feet
Starboard Reef line: 26 + 13
Port Reef Line: 16 + 13
out haul (rope to wire): 10+ 13 )
topping lift (rope to wire): 5+ 13


Item Number Description Qty Ord. Unit Price Disc Extended Price
NESS38 GREEN New England Ropes Sta-Set: 10mm (3/8") 3/8 in 40.00 $ 0.9500 20 $ 30.40
NESS38 RED New England Ropes Sta-Set: 10mm (3/8") 3/8 in 30.00 $ 0.9500 20 $ 22.80
NESS516 WHITE/BLUE New England Ropes Sta-Set: 8mm (5/16") 5/16 in 25.00 $ 0.7600 20 $ 15.20
NESS516 BLACK New England Ropes Sta-Set: 8mm (5/16") 5/16 in 15.00 $ 0.7600 20 $ 9.12

PAINT
AirCraft Spruce


Zinc, Phosphate - Boom primer - $17.5
PTI white engine enamel - $18.50
Shipping - $12.75



MJS
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Moderator
Blogs Author
1. What should I use to prevent bi-metal corrosion when re-installing hardware?
2. Is there a way to remove cleats that are bi-metal corroded to a point where they can not be removed?

1. Tef-gel or Lanocote are popular. I recall Maine Sail liking Tef-gel, so that's what I use.
2. If aluminum and stainless are actually corrosion welded, not much you can do. Otherwise, the usual tricks of PB Blaster, heat, impact driver, patience, and so on.
 
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mjsouleman

Member III
1. What should I use to prevent bi-metal corrosion when re-installing hardware?
2. Is there a way to remove cleats that are bi-metal corroded to a point where they can not be removed?

1. Tef-gel or Lanocote are popular. I recall Maine Sail liking Tef-gel, so that's what I use.
2. If aluminum and stainless are actually welded, not much you can do. Otherwise, the usual tricks of PB Blaster, heat, patience, and so on.
Thank you Christian,

Now if the spray paint job works well, this 35 year old lady will be another step closer to her prime.

MJS
 

Kenneth K

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
2. If aluminum and stainless are actually corrosion welded, not much you can do. Otherwise, the usual tricks of PB Blaster, heat, impact driver, patience, and so on.
The boom and the cleats are both aluminum, so I'm guessing you're talking about the SS screws being welded to the threads in the boom. My cleats had #12 mounting screws (I believe they were slotted, not Phillips). The slotted screwheads will strip pretty easily if they're really stuck in the aluminum. If so, you could (a) use a center-punch in the center of the screw head, then start with a small drill bit, stepping up to larger drill bits till you've removed the screw head. Or, (b) saw through the bases of the cleats (cutting off the screw-heads with them).

Either way, you'll be left with screw "studs" sticking out of the boom. But the studs will be a lot easier to go after with PB Blaster, heat torch, vice grips, etc, once the cleats are out of the way. New cleats are about $30 each though.

I was hoping to start repainting my boom this week, too. I got the same primer from Aircraft Spruce.
 
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mjsouleman

Member III
Putting finishing touches to Discovery's boom project, with line replacement. Reefing lines were fine, lengths were good but the green/red colors were switched, leaving poor Discovery with a 2nd reef line color of Green on the Port, and 1st reef line color of Red on the Starboard.

Then I discovered out haul and topping lift lines were too short, and while discovering this, the topping lift line disappeared into the boom like a little mouse.

Got to figure out how to get the little sucker outta there and back to where it belongs.

MJS
 

Kenneth K

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
Well MJS, you're still ahead of me. My boom is still hanging from straps in the garage, stripped of all lines and sheaves. I was going to repaint it but its getting so late in the season I may just put it back together as is.

I was actually thinking of re-rigging with the green first- reef lines to port and the red second-reef to starboard. Meaning green=easy first reef, red=this means business.
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
I was actually thinking of re-rigging with the green ... to port and the red ... to starboard.
Blasphemy!!!!!

:eek:

For mjsouleman's problem, though, you're right, there's nothing that says 1st-reef has to be to starboard... so he could easily use the green line for 2nd reef and run it on the starboard side, use the shorter red line for 1st reef and run it to port...

$.02
Bruce
 

mjsouleman

Member III
Love it. Now if you can help me get that darn topping lift line hiding in the boom, I would be eternally grateful.

MJS
 

Kenneth K

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
Blasphemy!!!!!
I realize swapping sides with red and green is blasphemous, but ALL my port lines are currently red/white. If I swap sides, I'll at least know the "wrong" colored lines are the reef lines.

That, or invest in a bunch of new rope......
 

mjsouleman

Member III
This is a follow on to earlier discussion on page 1
(1983 Ericson 30+ boom painting and line replacement)

It is now mid-March and the weather this weekend brought two days of above 50 and no rain.

I used this window to remove the hardware and prime the boom that I removed in December.

When the next weather window comes, I will apply a coat of white paint.

Now to point of this note:
1. What should I use to prevent bi-metal corrosion when re-installing hardware?
2. Is there a way to remove cleats that are bi-metal corroded to a point where they can not be removed?


For those looking for comparable cost and sizes for an Ericson 30+, see below:

LINES:
Boom Length: 13 Feet
Starboard Reef line: 26 + 13
Port Reef Line: 16 + 13
out haul (rope to wire): 10+ 13 )
topping lift (rope to wire): 5+ 13


Item Number Description Qty Ord. Unit Price Disc Extended Price
NESS38 GREEN New England Ropes Sta-Set: 10mm (3/8") 3/8 in 40.00 $ 0.9500 20 $ 30.40
NESS38 RED New England Ropes Sta-Set: 10mm (3/8") 3/8 in 30.00 $ 0.9500 20 $ 22.80
NESS516 WHITE/BLUE New England Ropes Sta-Set: 8mm (5/16") 5/16 in 25.00 $ 0.7600 20 $ 15.20
NESS516 BLACK New England Ropes Sta-Set: 8mm (5/16") 5/16 in 15.00 $ 0.7600 20 $ 9.12

PAINT
AirCraft Spruce


Zinc, Phosphate - Boom primer - $17.5
PTI white engine enamel - $18.50
Shipping - $12.75



FINAL Edit This threat:
With this project in the rear view mirror, here are a lesson or two learned

I Take the end caps off first
I didn't. Lesson: The SS screws bi-metal bonded and needed persuasion to come out. That persuasion was to place a wooden block under the boom end, and with a hefty screw driver and impact hammer, smack the screw driver while turning. This took at least 6-12 good whacks to loosen to a point where the screws backed out.

2. When a SS screw head is sheared off.... get help to drill the thing out and then drop a weld in.

II When putting the caps back on, do not use SS screws, use SS rivets

Summary: Lessons learned and ego intact.

MJS
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Moderator
Blogs Author
>>>remove cleats that are bi-metal corroded

The mooring cleats on the boat were corroded ugly, but Schaefer changed the footprint so changing them out would be a mess.

So I sanded them ruthlessly till they got all, I believe the tech term is, smooth and shiny-like.

A touch with 200-grit every year and they still look good. I could also, I suppose, actually polish them.


(so: if you can by any chance save yours it eliminates impossible bolts and sticking backing plates and a really awkward job)
 
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