Prairie Schooner
Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
What don't you like about the boom kicker, Nick?
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Block Comparison
- Thread starter Nick J
- Start date
What don't you like about the boom kicker, Nick?
the rod kicker works, but it would be nice to have a unit that incorporates the boom vang so I don't have 2 separate attachments on the boom and mast. Since it's working and my only concerns are basically cosmetic, this is really low on the priority list.
In my recent re-rig, the rigger added a 2:1 purchase to my vang, taking the 5:1 to 10:1.
Looking at your picture (post #17) it actually looks like this is what you have on your vang too? 5 lines to boom = 5:1... I always got confused on that. And then looks like you have the extra 2:1 also? You mention using the cabintop winch, but with 10:1 you shouldn't need that at all.
Anyway, going to 10:1 on my vang has been transformative; before it was just too hard to adjust much by hand, but now at 10:1 I can easily play it / adjust it any time I want. Adding the extra 2:1 obviously reduces the scope of vang motion by two, but I have not noticed this to matter in anything I do.
I'm not clear on the distinction between the vang and a kicker, except that looks like you have a rigid vang there (inboardmost on the boom) as well; I will call this the 'kicker' below. Obviously nice to keep the boom up; I have no idea whether/how yours is adjustable or rigid; maybe it's springy and you use the regular vang to adjust? In that case, again, doubt you need the winch -- 10:1 is a lot.
Re: loads on boom from two points instead of three:
If your kicker is rigid (or for a hydraulic vang that is rigid to motion in either direction once you set it): if you then apply a seond vang the likelihood is that you would use the line-vang to pull down against the rigid/hydraulic vang (which at that point would be resisting/pushing up) straining your boom and everythign else for no good reason. Seems like a great way to break gear. But if your kicker/"rigid" vang is actually fairly springy then I think you're OK.
If your kicker is springy: in that case whichever is pulling down will be providing the bulk of the force on the boom (in the image, looks like your regular vang is quite taught, so there probably it is providing that force.) Unless the upward force from the kicker can get very large (as for a rigid one), using it to hold the boom up, and your regular line-controlled vang to pull it down is fine; the line-controlled vang just has to provide some extra force to compress the (springy) kicker. That shouldn't be any issue unless the kicker is not very compressible.
The main sheet to the boom just provides extra downward force (with usually better lever-arm),so it doesn't figure in all this (unless you have a rigid vang/boom, at which point that must be strong enough to handle any downward force from the main sheet, e.g. when close-hauled.) This is not the case for Ericsons unless your kicker/vang is rigid.
My 4:1 comment was about the main sheet. The vang is 10:1 with a doubled 5:1 system just like you've noted and it works really well without using a winch. It sites just in front of the boomkicker (Mistakenly called a Rod Kicker above)
Eventually, I would like to go to something like this:
Eventually, I would like to go to something like this:
This thread has inspired me to take a deeper look at how my main sheet is setup. Purchasing new blocks was on the list for this year, but before I do, can I get a ruling?
The factory diagram says this:
Mine is actually rigged differently. But I do only have 2 connection points above the traveler, instead of three like others.
And, if I were to sketch out the new design, using the same routing as factory diagram:
@Nick J, this is basically how yours is rigged, right? Skipping the turning block at the boom-mast?
Other thoughts?
The factory diagram says this:
Mine is actually rigged differently. But I do only have 2 connection points above the traveler, instead of three like others.
And, if I were to sketch out the new design, using the same routing as factory diagram:
@Nick J, this is basically how yours is rigged, right? Skipping the turning block at the boom-mast?
Other thoughts?
Last edited:
bsangs
E35-3 - New Jersey
You still able to open the hatch with the line running directly to the deck organizer instead of to a mast base block first?
bsangs
E35-3 - New Jersey
Looks good to me, but as you may have noticed earlier in this thread, I might not know what the hell I’m talking about.
bsangs
E35-3 - New Jersey
Doug, any idea what size swivel you're using? The main sheet twist is driving me batty, so I’m going to try your solution.
ConchyDug
Member III
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If you have a used/consignment boat store near you they will have buckets of these for pretty cheap. If not EBay might have some because new they are mega pricey. Another option is finding someone who converted to trigger shackles and has there own pile of these. For size it's hard to say not being at the boat but it's whatever was on the spinnaker halyards for a 38.
The main sheet twist is driving me batty
It is caused by the winch and the inevitable clockwise twisting under load. Some boom blocks have set screws so you can keep them straight against the twist.
For what it's worth, when I switched to a single-braid mainsheet, twist in the line disappeared.
It is caused by the winch and the inevitable clockwise twisting under load. Some boom blocks have set screws so you can keep them straight against the twist.
For what it's worth, when I switched to a single-braid mainsheet, twist in the line disappeared.
Yes! Great upgrade and great hand feel.