Cabin sole re-finish

ref_123

Member III
Hi all,

while I truly admire people who can make their own floor from plywood - and I can see that project in my not so distant future - I am not ready for it right now and the sole DOES need re-finshing... So, here is the link to a teak-and-holly veneer that one glues over the existing floor. I had a significant measure of success with such materials before, and you really cannot tell the "veneered" piece of wood from a regular plywood if it was done right. The question is - did someone try such things on their cabin sole? Any special considerations?

http://oakwoodveneer.com/veneer/teak-holly.html

I know one can get laminate, but we REALLY like the varnished wood look and feel :).

Thanks in advance for any feedback, good or bad.

Regards,
Stan

E32-3 Fire Eater
 

McGinnis

Member II
What do you currently have on your sole and what do you plan to finish the veneer with?


From the small bits on veneering I've done along the ports I can tell you it's not too fun. Keep a syringe of lacquer thinner near by for those *#%@ moments.
 

ref_123

Member III
Varnish

I am not sure what is there right now. Looks like a regular clear high-gloss varnish.

I refinished a cabin table with similar veneer (mahogany) last year, using contact cement as adhesive. Looks really nice. Cannot really tell it's not an original plywood.

As for the plans... While there are specific finishes for cabin sole, I am not sure I can justify the price... So I plan to go with an Interlux varnish and just add layers as necessary.

Regards,
Stan
 

McGinnis

Member II
So you currently have a wooden sole? Look anything like this?
SAM_0080.jpg

My cabin sole is a veneer and aside from the wear and tear, it doesn't look bad at all.

If applied properly, a veneer should look and feel just fine.

There's less expensive options for finishing a sole. There's plenty of discussions on the matter, perhaps they can shine some more light on the subject for you.

Sailing Anarchy

C
ruisers Forum
 

ref_123

Member III
Well, not at the moment...

At this moment my sole is stripped bare and tomorrow I plan to sand it lightly and assess if it's worth varnishing or it needs veneer on top :) But yes, that's how it looked a few days back...
 

newpbs

Member III
vinyl

I am currently covering my cabin sole with vinyl. It is the stuff that looks like teak and holly. The material is heavy and looks good so far. Refinishing the original sole was not an option because the previous owner allowed the floor to rot and begin to delaminate. I replaced the soft sole with good plywood and covered the whole area with the new material. I still have to refinish the hatch covers. A lot of work, but in the end it will look good and should resist water damage well.

I know that some of you would rather see the floor rebuilt with wood, but I wanted to avoid the cost (and effort) that would go into a wood floor repair. Also, vinyl should be easier to care for. My goal is to maximize my time o the lake whenever possible.

Good luck

Paul
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Sole finishing plan

I'm now the owner of Ericson 32-3 hull number 604, ex Blue Burgundy, located in Marina del Rey, CA.

The cabin sole was replaced with teak and holly, screwed down but never finished (i.e, no sealer or varnish top or bottom).

My plan is two coats or more of penetrating epoxy both sides, then the appropriate coats of varnish on top.

My surveyor suggested a product called Nuwood Bar Top Varnish, a phenolic from BLP Mobile Paints. Anyone used it? It's for interiors, and apparently what those lovely bar tops are covered with, the ones in which your drink appears to be sitting on ice. HOwever, surveyor says the stuff isn't slippery at all underfoot if you're sober.

Since the sole has been down for months without a finish its slightly dirty (not bad), and I wonder how to clean it without much sanding. I'm thinking Murphy Oil Soap on a scotch pad....

Question: when applying epoxy to mahogany, the color changes to amber just as with varnish. Does penetrating epoxy change the color of raw wood?

Thanks for your opinions.

Christian
 
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ref_123

Member III
Hmm... Phenole... While I know for certain that our boats are literally built out of different carcinogens and outright poisons, I would not want phenole-based cover on my floor. Much less apply it - unless I am in a chemical warfare mask :)

Seriously. You walk on it and breathe it's vapor whenever you are below, particularly when it gets warm.

Bar tops are somewhat different, you see... Hopefully you do not spend much time hunched over it, and you hopefully do not sleep a few inches over it :). Your cabin sole is a different matter.

I am not saying regular varnishes are good for your health but phenole is just one of my pet idiosyncrazies :)

Regards,
Stan
 

eknebel

Member III
I'm now the owner of Ericson 32-3 hull number 604, ex Blue Burgundy, located in Marina del Rey, CA.

My plan is two coats or more of penetrating epoxy both sides, then the appropriate coats of varnish on top.

Christian

I replaced the 1/4 inch teak and holly sole laminate about six months ago, and used West system 207. This is a very clear finish, and is designed to be varnished over(this winter). It is a very hard finish, and not too slippery when wet.
 

tcooper

Member II
My floor was beyond repair so I decided to try using ¾”Bellawood prefinished teak floor. I removed entire floor cleaned, polished, runnew hoses, rewired and reinstalled. I made sure every raw edge and bottom wassealed with a Sherman Williams hardwood sealer. I left the grooves on myremovable panels and each section of floor has a removable panel. Some I didn’tput holes for removing, so I have to use screw driver to pull out a panel. Did have to add some supports under where my new booth is going and adjust a couple trim pieces but other than that it went in cleanly.No finishing was needed. I purchased about 30% more than I needed and I'm glad I did cause they send too many short pieces in each package. I hope it holds up, I was very carfull to seal all edges. Total project was $400.00.

Tom
36RH

IMG_0005.jpg

 
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