Chainplate & bedding plates

[jpginsu]

I have attached a picture of the moisture reading from the portside decking near the chainplate. I have also attached a picture after removing the bedding plate. My instinct (Option 1) is to open up the decking by removing the deck skin, clear out the soaked balsa core, dry out, reglass/epoxy, install new balsa core and replace the skin with over reglassing using chopstrand and biaxial matt glass secured with fairing compound. I would rebed the chainplate and bedding plate with butyl tape instead of chaulk that has been used in the past. I'm sure the balsa core is 50 years old like the boat. This is my first thought.

My second thought (Option 2) is what was told to me by the boatyard. They suggest removing all the caulk, clean the plates, fill the holes with epoxy and rebed with butyl tape.

My concern is that if I do option #1, I may upset the stability of the chainplate. The problem I see for option #2 is that I may be just putting off a serious problem that may raise it's ugly head later.
Looking for any opinions as to which is the best option based on anyone's experience. I do have experience with the process of replacing old decking. I rebuilt the cabin top by the process above in option 1 but the cabin top doesn't have the tension on it like a chainplate does.

Let me know your thoughts.

 

[bigd14]

If moisture has gotten into the core (and it has, inevitably), it will have spread way beyond the chainplate area. If the decks are generally sound I would go with option 2. This is because I have gone with option 1 on a former boat which turned into a massive re-core job. If there are any hollow sounding or squishy areas then you’ll have to decide between a really huge project or just living with it. It should be easy enough to reinforce the chainplate area of the deck to counter any side loading if you do tear into it.

 

[Christian Williams]

#2.

 

[tenders]

The big question to guide your response to this: how is the bulkhead into which the chainplate is fastened? This design, which certainly isn't specific to Ericsons, is notorious for letting water seep down the chainplate, waterlogging and rotting the core around it, and rotting the bulkhead holding the chainplate down. The core is the least of the issue. I repaired my situation from the bottom up, by grafting G10 into the failing bulkhead, doubling the chainplate into solid wood (also using G10), replacing the rotten balsa core with Corecell foam, and replacing a bit of the top skin with G10.

Chainplates and Bulkhead - replace?

I had the same issue on my boat - minus the chainplate fissure - and successfully scarfed in a new section, which through periodic inspection, has proven sound. Knock on 'wood.':rolleyes: Fortunately, the rotted part was only the girth of the salon chainplate covering box, so I didn't have to...

ericsonyachts.org

That was...yikes, 15 years ago. I would expect projects like this (and other core replacement projects) to be almost expected repairs on any boat built before the mid-80s. Easy for a surveyor to see and take exception to. Very expensive for a yard to repair. Not that bad for the curious, dust-tolerant, epoxy-forward DIY boat owner with at least a friend who owns a table saw.

If the bulkhead is solid, then #2 - just clean and dry out the core as best you can, fill it in a water-tightening fashion with epoxy, and seal that top plate with butyl.

 

[jpginsu]

Thanks everyone for your input. The bulkhead is solid since I reinforced it 2 years ago when I did all the rehab work. The decking is not soft. I'll take your advice and go with option #2. I know that opening the deck is like opening a can of worms since that's what happened when I thought that I was only going to fix a small soft spot in the cabin top. It became a 2 week process that had me recoring the whole top. Thanks again!