Changed main from rope bolt to slugs

[Jason]

In changing over the mainsail from a rope bolt to slugs I've ran across a problem.
Where the rope bolt used to go into the mast is the feeder - a large section of the mast track that is wide enough to fit the rope bolt.
So now the problem; when you raise, lower or stack the slugs they all fall out at that spot.
Do they make (I assume they) do something for the mast track to fill the gap?

Thanks!

 

[Frank Langer]

I am aware of two possibilities, depending on your set-up. On my previous boat, I made a small aluminum piece (about 6" long and 1" wide) that fit over the wide part of the mast, drilled two holes and fastened with screws. I made the piece so that when it was in place, it aligned perfectly with the normal width of the mast track, so it was as if there was no wider part for the slugs to fall out of.
Another option, depending on where the sail is in relation to the wider section, is to add a sail stop just before the wider section --they are available at most chandleries for about $10. They fit into the sail track and then screw tight with a knurled nut, so you can position it to keep the sail slugs from falling out.
Hope one of these options will work for you.
Frank.

 

[Jason]

Thanks Frank. The stop won't work as the location is too high; about 14" above boom. Sounds like the homemade option is the way to go.
I'm surprised their isn't a solution out on the market for such a common problem...

 

[Chris Miller]

sail tie...

A sail tie wrapped around the mast under the bottom slug works as a temp until you can get a better fix.
Chris

 

[Jason]

Frank - for the screws - did you tap the mast or just drill and use machine screws?
Reason I ask is; I don't really know how thick the mast is.
If it's thick enough I guess I'll tap the holes...

Thanks!

 

[Frank Langer]

I did this on my previous boat, a san juan 23, which had a lighter mast than the ericsons. For that boat, it worked to just drill two holes and put screws in. It worked that way til I sold the boat six years later. As there isn't really any pressure on the plate, it doesn't need to be super strong, so I think drilling the right size hole and adding screws would work (with some kind of anti-corrosion gunk because of the stainless screws/aluminum mast contact).
Hope that helps. Someone else may have thoughts on this as well.
Frank.

 

[Seth]

14" is no problem

You can use the simple, low cost "sail stop" as mentioned above, basically a metal sail slug that fits into the bottom of the track and is held in place with a tightening screw.

In order to get the reef cringles down to the reef hook/gooseneck fitting you simply use a jackline for the lower slugs (from the tack up to the highest reef point). This way, the slugs are not attached to the sail itself, but to a rope that is woven through grommets on the luff of the sail, and deadended at the top reef.

Search this topic, we have posted volumes on the subject.

Easiest solution if you dont want to machine some custom parts..

S

 

[Jason]

Seth -

My sail cover would not fit if I put a stop up that high though.

Plus it would look kinda funny, the luff of the sail sitting a foot off the boom.