Randy Rutledge
Sustaining Member
The table in my 29 looks like it belongs in some cheaply made boat. It is sturdy but ugly from day one; the center panel leads to an n uneven surface. I plan to build a two piece table and use hinges like the ones on the hatches. This type hinge will let the drop leaf swing back under the starboard part of the table and allow for removal for storage if I were to ever take down the table.
I have an old mahogany dining table that is solid mahogany planking joined together. I plan to cut my table pieces from the old table top and finish it a natural lighter color rather than try to match the dark mahogany interior. I might also replace the fold-up leg for the table.
My challenge is how to stain the Ericson logo onto the table top, all experiments end with stain following the grain of the wood and leaving a fuzzy edge. I may have to use a decal.
When I get started for real I will post pictures.
I have an old mahogany dining table that is solid mahogany planking joined together. I plan to cut my table pieces from the old table top and finish it a natural lighter color rather than try to match the dark mahogany interior. I might also replace the fold-up leg for the table.
My challenge is how to stain the Ericson logo onto the table top, all experiments end with stain following the grain of the wood and leaving a fuzzy edge. I may have to use a decal.
When I get started for real I will post pictures.
NateHanson
Sustaining Member
Stains not what you want. You need to inlay the logo! 
It's actually a pretty trivial job if you have a pattern, and an inlay router bit. It will come with a collar, and you use the same pattern with and without the collar, to cut the inlay, and cut the recess in the table. The inlay cut with the collar will drop perfectly into the recess cut without the collar.
As far as the original question of cost for a new table, it depends a lot on how you want it made. At minimum, I'd do a mahogany or teak plywood table, with solid mahogany or teak fiddles on all sides, and a couple solid wood braces underneath to keep things flat. This will have virtually the same appearance as a solid wood table, and will be at least as stable. I'd expect to pay in the $500 ballpark range for a decent job by a furnituremaker. (materials costs will exceed $100) If you want the best table, you can have it done in solid mahogany of teak, but it will cost much much more in teak (materials costs will be $200-300), a good bit more in mahogany. There's a lot more labor involved in a solid wood table. But for the discriminating eye, the solid wood table will be appreciated. Also, you'll never ding or sand-through the veneer on the table. I'd expect a solid table could likely cost a grand.
Nate
It's actually a pretty trivial job if you have a pattern, and an inlay router bit. It will come with a collar, and you use the same pattern with and without the collar, to cut the inlay, and cut the recess in the table. The inlay cut with the collar will drop perfectly into the recess cut without the collar.
As far as the original question of cost for a new table, it depends a lot on how you want it made. At minimum, I'd do a mahogany or teak plywood table, with solid mahogany or teak fiddles on all sides, and a couple solid wood braces underneath to keep things flat. This will have virtually the same appearance as a solid wood table, and will be at least as stable. I'd expect to pay in the $500 ballpark range for a decent job by a furnituremaker. (materials costs will exceed $100) If you want the best table, you can have it done in solid mahogany of teak, but it will cost much much more in teak (materials costs will be $200-300), a good bit more in mahogany. There's a lot more labor involved in a solid wood table. But for the discriminating eye, the solid wood table will be appreciated. Also, you'll never ding or sand-through the veneer on the table. I'd expect a solid table could likely cost a grand.
Nate