E30+ engine startup procedure? (new owner)

[AdventurousAnton]

Hi all!

I need to post an introduction at EY, but first, I have an engine startup question. She has a Universal 18 diesel, and I know the general process of bleeding that motor, but if anyone has a specific startup checklist, that would be great! I searched but couldn't find one here. I'm sure there's a seacock I need to access and open. Also, do I hold the glow plug button for a few seconds when turning on? Any step-by-step process helps.

TYIA,
Anton

 

[Loren Beach]

Hi Anton,
Welcome to the Viking ranks!
In my mind (sometimes a drafty place...) I have always admired the "check list" that pilots use when preparing for a flight. While we sailors have no risk of falling out of the sky, we do not want to be adrift and wandering into land bits or other boats if we find our selves with no wind and no motor.

Around a couple of decades ago I made up a "startup and shutdown" sheet for our boat. At the time my wife wanted a reference to take the boat out for a weekend "Ladies Cruise" with a bunch of other gals with mostly sailboats and a few trawlers. She did have a gal friend aboard, which was important for line handling. It was a two sided printout, in clear plastic.

I listed stuff like checking the oil level, which panel breakers to turn on, opening the engine intake valve for water for the heat exchanger, Set shift to neutral, throttle to about half, key On, pressing the preheat button for a 10 count, and then pressing the start button. Look over the transom and confirm water coming out with the exhaust. Drop the throttle back to idle and let it warm for about ten minutes. Before untying, put transmission if forward and then reverse and observe for prop turning from disturbed water.
Since we boat on a river, always tie the bow first when docking in current, and when leaving untie the stern first. Bump the throttle in & out of gear, idling, to stay stationary in current while moving away from a dock. (Probably of no concern to you salt water folk.)

There are other 'startup' notes one could mention, like which thru hulls to open or close, but that's everyday info not related to getting under way.
I am likely forgetting something, but other Vikings will be checking in.

Actual vikings would be checking the thole pins and long oars and polishing shields, as well!

 

[bigd14]

Welcome! The 30+ has the engine intake seacock located waaaay back under the galley sink. To access it one has to lie down with their shoulder and head in the engine compartment. This seacock is likely left open since it is so hard to reach. Worthwhile to check its operation and the hoses and hose clamps. I ended up relocating mine further forward during a haulout, and now it is much easier to reach.

While you are checking the seacocks and hoses, check all the other ones too, especially the combined cockpit scupper and galley sink drain in the engine compartment. The old ribbed off-white hoses are prone to failure and really need to be replaced as soon as you are able since that seacock is left open to drain the cockpit.

You may need more than a 10 count for the glow plugs, that was the case when I got my boat before I did the wiring/solenoid upgrade to improve glow plug performance (you can search for those threads on the site here).

Enjoy the new boat!

Doug

 

[Nick J]

Don't forget to turn off shore power and disconnect the cord from the boat. mistakes were made, lessons were learned. Hopefully others don't have to repeat my mistakes.

 

[Loren Beach]

Don't forget to turn off shore power and disconnect the cord from the boat. mistakes were made, lessons were learned. Hopefully others don't have to repeat my mistakes.

Good Catch! I should have said that. I my case, a mistake was also made, by me... and an interesting lesson learned!

 

[Frank Langer]

Anton,
If you don't already have it, the book by Nigel Calder titled Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual is the repair and maintenance bible for many of us. Although not cheap, it saves it's cost many times over as it covers all the systems on most boats, and helps avoid expensive repairs. Highly recommended!.
Frank

 

[AdventurousAnton]

Anton,
If you don't already have it, the book by Nigel Calder titled Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual is the repair and maintenance bible for many of us. Although not cheap, it saves it's cost many times over as it covers all the systems on most boats, and helps avoid expensive repairs. Highly recommended!.
Frank

Thanks, Frank—that's an excellent reminder! Nigel was one of my main writers when I was the editor-in-chief of The Log Newspaper (SoCal/NorCal), and I have his book aboard my C42 (which I'm selling). I need to get those reference materials onboard the new (little) boat.

 

[AdventurousAnton]

Don't forget to turn off shore power and disconnect the cord from the boat. mistakes were made, lessons were learned. Hopefully others don't have to repeat my mistakes.

Right on! That goes at the top of the checklist! Usually I would remember that, but my Catalina 42 was so often NOT plugged in and used her Samsung panels to keep 12v/batteries online.

 

[AdventurousAnton]

Hi Anton,
Welcome to the Viking ranks!
In my mind (sometimes a drafty place...) I have always admired the "check list" that pilots use when preparing for a flight. While we sailors have no risk of falling out of the sky, we do not want to be adrift and wandering into land bits or other boats if we find our selves with no wind and no motor.

Around a couple of decades ago I made up a "startup and shutdown" sheet for our boat. At the time my wife wanted a reference to take the boat out for a weekend "Ladies Cruise" with a bunch of other gals with mostly sailboats and a few trawlers. She did have a gal friend aboard, which was important for line handling. It was a two sided printout, in clear plastic.

I listed stuff like checking the oil level, which panel breakers to turn on, opening the engine intake valve for water for the heat exchanger, Set shift to neutral, throttle to about half, key On, pressing the preheat button for a 10 count, and then pressing the start button. Look over the transom and confirm water coming out with the exhaust. Drop the throttle back to idle and let it warm for about ten minutes. Before untying, put transmission if forward and then reverse and observe for prop turning from disturbed water.
Since we boat on a river, always tie the bow first when docking in current, and when leaving untie the stern first. Bump the throttle in & out of gear, idling, to stay stationary in current while moving away from a dock. (Probably of no concern to you salt water folk.)

There are other 'startup' notes one could mention, like which thru hulls to open or close, but that's everyday info not related to getting under way.
I am likely forgetting something, but other Vikings will be checking in.

Actual vikings would be checking the thole pins and long oars and polishing shields, as well!

Ah, thanks! LOVE IT!

This is my third Ericson in the last 30 years, and I was specifically looking for an E30+. I got lucky with one located at the next marina, Marina Village Yacht Harbor, on Alameda Island (SF Bay).

My father is a retired USAF fighter pilot, and I'm a veteran Navy crypto who flew (EA3B, E2C, and EP3) and lived and died by checklists. I'm a HUGE fan of checklists printed out, laminated, and then put up with a red erasable pen. It makes it easier for my wife as well since she can just read the list and check it off as I punch through items.

This would certainly be a cool "Resource" for us to collaborate on and post in the Resources section.

100% appreciate all the feedback and input here! I'll post a "welcome" story after my outlaws (mother and father-in-law) leave next Monday.

Some additional photos of Andiamo! are attached...

Also, with regards my "Viking Nature," does living in Iceland for almost three years count? Heh...I was a kid there when my dad was stationed at Keflavik, the did DIRSUP missions up there in the Navy. I guess I come by this love honestly!

 

[Frank Langer]

Anton,
Interesting that after owning various boats, including three Ericsons, you specifically chose an E30+. Can you say why this boat on particular?
We have owned our 1984 E30+ for 18 years and love how she sails!
Frank

 

[AdventurousAnton]

Anton,
Interesting that after owning various boats, including three Ericsons, you specifically chose an E30+. Can you say why this boat on particular?
We have owned our 1984 E30+ for 18 years and love how she sails!
Frank

I had two different friends down in SoCal in the 90s (I can't remember their boat names, though) who had E30+ boats that they cruised up and down the coast, MX, SF, PNW, Catalina, etc. and I always thought I'd eventually upgrade my E23 (The Embassea) to a larger boat. Specifically, the E30+. My buddy Charlie Halterman (who worked at Pacific Seacraft in the 80s and knew Bruce King and Bob Perry) mentioned that the build quality, trapezoidal keel, and standard outfitting were superb. He'd been aboard my old Soverel 36 CB back on Hilton Head Island, and thought the two boats were similar in quality. However, the custom joinery work below on my Soverel was exceptional. I had the opportunity to sail on an E30+ a few times in Charleston in the 2000s, reinforcing the notion of owning one.

Eventually.

A few boats later and after going through the pandemic aboard ourC42 Mk.1 (S/V Libertine is on the market now) and then upgrading our liveaboard life (wife, doggo, gato) to a Sea Ranger 52 trawler two years ago, it was time to start looking. I just got lucky with the soon-to-be-renamed Andiamo! being a neighborhood marina away, and bought her on the spot after spending a couple of hours aboard. The motor hums like a top (Universal 18), the transmission is solid, and there is a huge complement of almost-new sails, crunch main and jib, good electricals, and teak down below in excellent shape. Spinny and whisker poles as well.

She needs some work. The sheets are crusty and old (the running rigging is getting replaced/upgraded ASAP), the standing needs some tuning, the fridge is operational but not cold (R12, though...yikes), and she'll need a bottom job next year. But she's "estuary-ready" right now, and I have a slip for her right behind Zissou.

And, esthetically, she's just a pretty little thing! We'll be looking at doing overnights at Angel Island and possibly some longer sails down to Half Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, and Monterey, and maybe up to Bodega Bay as well. Eventually.

So that's my story and I'm sticking to it...
Anton on Alameda

 

[AdventurousAnton]

I forgot to mention the other two Ericsons: an E25 and E27, both early 70s models. Both were FREE. Of course, these are the most expensive boats to "buy." They were gifted to me back on Hilton Head, and both got fixed up to sail, and sell. I also had an old Hunter 30 shoal-draft with a Renault engine that I sold to a friend. She and her daughter sailed her (GypseaBella) back up to Charleston and lived and sailed the Lowcountry for about 5 or 6 years. She only managed to get stuck in pluff mud a thousand times, before fixing her depth meter!

 

[Christian Williams]

Why is it necessary to disconnect shore power before starting?

 

[Loren Beach]

Why is it necessary to disconnect shore power before starting?

Other than the obvious problem of shortly thereafter trying to back out of our slip with the cord still attached to the power post.....
(yikes)

I have always been cautious of starting the engine when the battery bank was also being charged, and having this (perhaps) concealing a low battery condition that might later under-amp the starter and catch us off guard when we are returning to the marina.
Maybe just uneducated superstition on my part?

So, not "necessary" but just somethin' I do.

 

[frick]

Hi Anton,
Welcome to the Viking ranks!
In my mind (sometimes a drafty place...) I have always admired the "check list" that pilots use when preparing for a flight. While we sailors have no risk of falling out of the sky, we do not want to be adrift and wandering into land bits or other boats if we find our selves with no wind and no motor.

Around a couple of decades ago I made up a "startup and shutdown" sheet for our boat. At the time my wife wanted a reference to take the boat out for a weekend "Ladies Cruise" with a bunch of other gals with mostly sailboats and a few trawlers. She did have a gal friend aboard, which was important for line handling. It was a two sided printout, in clear plastic.

I listed stuff like checking the oil level, which panel breakers to turn on, opening the engine intake valve for water for the heat exchanger, Set shift to neutral, throttle to about half, key On, pressing the preheat button for a 10 count, and then pressing the start button. Look over the transom and confirm water coming out with the exhaust. Drop the throttle back to idle and let it warm for about ten minutes. Before untying, put transmission if forward and then reverse and observe for prop turning from disturbed water.
Since we boat on a river, always tie the bow first when docking in current, and when leaving untie the stern first. Bump the throttle in & out of gear, idling, to stay stationary in current while moving away from a dock. (Probably of no concern to you salt water folk.)

There are other 'startup' notes one could mention, like which thru hulls to open or close, but that's everyday info not related to getting under way.
I am likely forgetting something, but other Vikings will be checking in.

Actual vikings would be checking the thole pins and long oars and polishing shields, as well!

when i closed the raw water engine valve, i alwas put the key in the cut down paper towel tube labed open the raw water before starting

 

[AdventurousAnton]

when i closed the raw water engine valve, i alwas put the key in the cut down paper towel tube labed open the raw water before starting

Now, THAT is a novel solution. Love it!

 

[bigd14]

when i closed the raw water engine valve, i alwas put the key in the cut down paper towel tube labed open the raw water before starting

Good strategy, but I would still end up getting distracted and forgetting… Which I did once long ago. I now store the key on the raw water valve handle with a stretchy hair tie. Can’t get the key without grabbing the handle!