E39 Loaded Displacement

[Traveler]

I am looking into repowering Traveler, and am currently gathering info requested by my marine diesel guru for pricing a new drivetrain.

In order to properly spec the HP/tranny/prop combination, he is wondering what the Loaded Displacement is for the E39. I told him about the 19,500 lb spec that is easily found in the archive here, but he cringed and said those numbers found in the manufacturers lit are notoriously suspect.

Does anyone here know how accurate the Ericson literature was?

Is it possible to calculate or measure loaded displacement? (without hauling the boat, dag-nabbit). :eek:

Or best yet, do one of you brainiacs just happen to know from experience what a E39 moderately loaded with cruising gear, full tanks, and 2 people with all thier stuff wieghs in at?

 

[Seth]

E 39 weights

Tell your guru he could plan on using about 23K for an average loaded weight. A bit more if the boat is going world cruising.

The brochure were generally within 5-10% correct, but often did not include the rig.
Happy motoring!

 

[Traveler]

Seth,

23,000 lbs does not sound out of hand. Many thanks for the info.

I am hoping that I will be able to budget this project. I know it is going to be $$$$$$$$$$!

Following Seas,
Gary

 

[Sam Clemens]

e-39

Hello:

The guy who lifted my E39 at the boatyard told me it was 24,000 it has a 44hp Westerbeke with 2:1 reduction, I have a 17x13 3 blade and a manual tranny.
The manual tranny lets me sail in neutral which gains about 3/4 of a knot over being locked up.

It motors at 7knts at 2400 and can spin over 3000.
I had to try a couple different props, everything that was recommended was small to get the 7 knts at cruise speed, could be due to the shaft angle that is quite steep.

I repowed boats for a living for Shoreling Diesel in South SF. for about 10 yrs and have found that recommendations are a starting point. Get enough horsepower to start with and everything else can be matched.

Good luck with your project.
Sam

 

[Seth]

Right on

Sam,
With the rig and everything 24k is obviously a better value than my guess of 23-but who is counting?

Actually you were doing well to get steady 7kts. With the original engine/prop the 39 struggled for 5.5-6.

Good comments!

 

[Traveler]

The number climbs! Still I would not be suprised that one of these hearties weighs in a t 24,000 lbs.

My E39 shoulders waves with much more authority than my previous vessel; a Lancer 43 that was supposed to displace 22,500 lbs. I'm sure some of that is hull design, but it's a huge difference.

My current Perkins 4.107 powerplant is rated at 47 hp, which seems to be plenty of power, the main problems being intermidable oil leakage and a fixed two-blade prop that only clears the underside of the hull by 1/4". Cavitation city above 2200 rpm.

I plan on sticking with the same HP, around 50 + a three bladed feathering prop.

Hey Sam, when you say that you have a manual tranny, what do you mean? My BW Velvet drive has a forward/neutral/reverse, like most every boat I've seen. Is that what you mean? Or does your boat have a clutch? haha

Since you are obviously experienced with this kind of thing, do you have any recommendations/insights for a guy who is handy with a set of tools but has never done a marine diesel repower before? Any tips would be much appreciated!

 

[Sam Clemens]

E39

Hi:

Feel free to Email me, if you do the work yourself you might want to check on new motor warranty.

Nothing wrong with a 4108 if its running good and a BW is a good tranny. It is Hydraulic but with a feathering prop you shouldn't have to lock it. Did you look into a rebuild for the 4108?

If you decide to repower yourself you need to do things in the right order. Like everything its not too hard after you have done a few.

I'll be gone a week or so for Xmas
Merry Xmas

Sam

 

[Seth]

Props

I agree-the engine is just fine-do your homework on the prop and you will be in good shape. Feathering props have come a long way, and if you go 3 blade (I would look into 2 first-just for the drag) you don't have to worry about a verrtical alignment. I realize the literature says you don't need to do this, but I would still rather know my 2 blader is straight up and down.

Also, MOST engines will be MUCH happier if the prop is not spinning when not in use. I ALWAYS leave it in gear-no matter what prop is used.

If the prop is spinning, all the tranny parts are in motion, with no lubrication. Alsu the drag is increased dramatically-instead of the normal drag of a prop, you now have the drag of the entire disk area if it is spinning.

S

 

[Martin King]

I repowered my old 39 with a Yanmar 3JH2B. It's
38 horses with a 2:1 reduction gear driving a 16 inch
3 bladed Max prop. Plenty of power available and the
boat easily achieved 7 knots. While the engine is out,
I suggest you replace the factory fuel tank if this
hasn't already been done. More important than
horsepower figures is the reduction gear ratio and
the blade area of prop. 17 inches is rather big for that
boat, and will most definitely cavitate. You are better
off with a slightly smaller wheel with more blade
area. R&Ring the engine on that boat is fairly easy for
a handy owner. You can email me back channel if you
have any questions.

Regards,

Martin
E31C

 

[Traveler]

Thanks for the info, guys. I am basically in the research/budgeting part of this project, so things are very nebulous right now as I am trying to get my best options laid out as much as possible before I commit to a course of action.

The driving factors for all this are:
-My Perkins 4.107 runs great but the mounts are shot and she leaks oil from inaccessible places.
-My Borg Warner Velvet Drive works fine and looks clean inside, but the outside is a massive ball of rust. The aft mounts are custom and scary rusty.
-the diesel fuel tank needs replacement -stat!
-there is so much accumulated grit/oil/sludge in my bilge that the aft section by the packing gland can't drain into the keel section where the bilge pump is. I've tried cleaning it out but it's like someone put most of the oily sand from the Exxon Valdez disaster under my engine pan.
-cockpit drains/seacocks and wiring need attention which would be much easier to deal with with the engine out.

The main question that I am trying to contend with is: should I pull my 30+ year old Perkins/Velvet Drive and then put it back (I have been quoted about $3000-$4000 to fix it up to a level worthy of the effort of putting it back in, or should repower? I have been quoted $8000 for a new Universal 44 hp with panel and trans. There would be other costs with the repower like new engine beds, intake and exhaust, ect.

Any input from those of you more experienced/knowledgeable?
Always Appreciative,
Gary