Ericson 27: electrical, deck, bottom

[Scyph]

I bought my first own sailboat this March, an Ericson 27. She's a solid boat, but not without her ails. The three major ones are: the dock power cord shares a locker with the gas tank + other electrical glitches; soft spot on the bow + other deck problems; the bottom needs cleaning and maybe some work. And of course there are tons of small projects, too: outboard, bilge, deck fittings, cockpit canopy, depth finder / GPS / maybe some other electronics, two leaky portlights, porta potty..... maybe some I didn't even notice in the 4 days I spent aboard during Easter break. My boat came with 3 sails (main, jib, and "Lapper" which I guess is another name for a genoa), an outboard that probably works but needs tuning, and a ton of miscellaneous items like a seat (can't figure out where to attach it) and what I believe is a tension meter.

I'll live aboard all summer. I'll try to get as many of the the projects as I can done during the first half of summer, and set sail as soon as possible. I'm ridiculously new to all of this, so, chances are, you'll be very annoyed by my questions and problems. (E.g.: the three basic sealants are polysulfade, polyurethane, and (ugh!) silicone---so which one of them is the mysterious "caulk"?). I posted Where is the bilge pump? and Recoring or repairing the deck on the bow of an Ericson 27 before. I'll be working on a lot of projects in sequence from now on, so I don't want to post fifty different threads.

Tomorrow (4/27/2012) I'll be driving 200mi to my boat to spend a week working on the electrical mess. In the week after that, I'm finishing up with classes, exams, research, graduation and moving out of my apartment back at school. The two weeks after graduation, I'll spend fixing the soft spot + misc projects. I'll leave my current marina near the end of May and "motorsail" to a nearby boat yard to get hauled out. I'll have a free week on the hard after that, and $60/month if I need to stay longer. That's when I'll finish everything I haven't done before, do bottom work, and set sail.

One other thing: my budget is ridiculously thin. If I sum all of the estimates below (especially the pessimistic ones), I'd be almost TWICE over my budget. For that reason, I had to drop solar and wind generators (and a couple other useful but expensive projects) off my list. Of course, the numbers below feature pessimistic estimates (no, I won't be spending $100/week on food and gas!), double counts ($300 for Lexan + $400 for bow repair), and generally the absolute maximum I'm willing to spend on any project. So, my overall list of projects is this:

WEEK 1 (exam week):

Shopping spree:
​

epoxy %%% $150
bilge cleaner %%% $20
bosun's chair? ladder? %%% $100 pessimistic estimate
nav lights? %%% $300 pessimistic estimate
dinghy outboard %%% $300 maximum; any more, and I'll take a risk with my 9.8 hp
​

food and gas %%% $100
​

marina fees %%% $200
pump out the bilge
fix the lock
safety harness %%% $???
Electrical: %%% THE BIGGEST PROJECT FOR WHICH I NEED TO DO THE MOST RESEARCH
​

dock power cord entry %%% $50 pessimistic estimate
automatic bilge pump %%% $150 pessimistic estimate
navigation lights (anchor, steaming, side, and stern) %%%
cabin lights %%%
spools of wires %%% $100 pessimistic estimate​

fix the attachment of the outboard mounting bracket %%%
epoxy in new cleats %%% $40
refit deck fittings with backing plates and without the silicone mess %%% $200 pessimistic estimate
new chainplates and/or rebed that one leaky chainplate %%%
​

ONE WEEK ASHORE:

take graduate math finals
Shopping spree:​

Lexan (transparent stuff stronger than plexiglas) %%% $300 realistic estimate (see Grainger http://www.grainger.com)
foam toolbox (11x15" min inner dimensions) %%% $35
waterway charts %%% $50
flare gun %%% $50
​

WEEK 2+3 (main):

install a new cockpit canopy %%%
Repair the soft spot on the bow %%% $400
exploratory surgery
recore? hatch? drill holes? this is perhaps my biggest project
service the outboard motor %%% $400 pessimistic estimate
mount a depth finder
attach motor to deflatable %%%
fix leaking portlights
put in a porta-potty %%% $100
food and gas %%% $200
​

WEEK 4 (boatyard):

haul out %%% $190
clean the bottom %%%
fix any blisters %%%
repaint the bottom? %%% $???
paint with anti-fouling paint %%% $150
food and gas %%% $100
​

WEEK 5+ (sailing)

food and gas %%% $900 ($100/week)
sail %%% $priceless
​

OPTIONAL, LONG TERM and NEXT YEAR

tiny low-powered laptop
Lexan (transparent) door
repaint the deck
fix the bent rail
​

 

[toddster]

Relax. Go through your list and prioritize a bit. "Do I really need this to go day sailing this summer."

E.g. do you really need the head right away.

Consider dropping the whole boatyard week. It looks way optimistic to me in both time and budget. If you don't dive, there are various ways to clean up the bottom including brushes on extension handles and even a piece of carpet with a rope on either end, that you can work over the bottom with a friend. It won't be race-ready, but good enough to learn to sail for a summer. You can haul out next fall and have all winter to work on problems you might find. e.g. "Fixing any blisters." Oh boy, did I find some blisters. And some other issues to deal with. The recommendations are to sand them down and let the boat dry for 3 months before proceeding. Fortunately (?), mine has already been sitting here for two months while life happens, so I've got that covered.

Anyway, as you sail the boat, you'll find more things to fix or replace. The list will change. Keep an eye on craigslist for things that you need and find your nearest dealer in used boat parts.

 

[Scyph]

I do have priorities. They aren't explicit in the list I posted here, but my three main priorities are: 1. electricity; 2. deck; 3. bottom. Beyond that, I don't think I can prioritize "I need an automatic bilge pump more than I need my radio." I'll be living at an anchor for most of the summer, so a porta-potty is a necessity. Can't anchor safely without anchor lights, either. What has to be done, needs to be done, regardless of priorities.

The previous owner says that there weren't any blisters--as of two years ago. Hopefully, if I find any at all, I'll only find one or two. But, yes, I somehow missed the whole "let them dry for 3 months" thing while reading up on fixes. That puts them off until the end of the summer....

 

[bigd14]

If you are planning on doing much deck work afloat, you should budget for some replacement tools... Stuff drops over the side all the time!

 

[davisr]

Hey Scyph,

I believe what the Toddster is saying is that you would probably have a better time if you scaled back your goals a little bit. If you could stay at your current marina any longer than May, you could spend some time enjoying the boat during the day. Some days you could devote to work. In the evenings you could do your reading, research, and planning while tied up to the dock. Alternatively, you could put your boat on the hard, as you describe, and you could get more work accomplished, but no sailing. I would think that most forum members would agree that its overly ambitious to plan to accomplish everything that is on that list in such a short period of time. Many of the projects on the list have lots of sub-projects, and there are always more problems that surface the deeper you get into these sub-projects. I'm not trying to give you a hard time, I'm just saying that you'd probably like your boat a lot more if you take your time and treat her right.

Regards,
Roscoe

 

[bigd14]

I agree. Its a very ambitious schedule. As others have said there are always unforeseen circumstances that arise during this type of restoration. And the worst part is its all connected! You may need to back up several steps in order to complete one job. I think you will be happier if you tackle one project at a time (in the water) see how far you get. Haul out in the fall and spend the winter addressing all the hull issues and as many other issues as you can. then throw it back in the spring and go sailing!

Keep us posted

 

[TRMN8R]

When I first acquired my e27, I felt as ambitious as you are with all the excitement and projects that needed to be done. I used the survey as a guide and layed out a multi year plan with any and all SAFETY related issues at the top of the list and first.......I might gently suggest that you look at your to-do list with similar thinking as that is most important. Hope this helps and as others have already stated: above all enjoy your boat and have fun!

 

[Scyph]

I agree with what y'all are saying about the projects taking more time than expected. Woodwork on Easter took 4x the time I thought it would take, just because of the amount of shopping I had to do to get started. I'm not even into the first project on my list, and I already suffered a setback: schoolwork kept me from going to my boat at all this week :0. Besides, I'd want to budget some time to hang out with neighbors and do research.

I'm embarrassed to admit that my plan for dealing with tools falling over the side was to not drop tools over the side. Come think of it, it will be far, far safer to do deck work on the hard. How bad would it be to go sailing with that soft spot on the bow? I'll be the only person on the boat most of the time. I'll just keep avoiding that spot. And if I have guests, I'll tell them not to step on it. And anyway, I don't have a roller furler, so my jib will be sitting on that soft spot for much the time.

And going off on a tangent, what's everyone's experience with butyl caulking tape vs. silicone for bedding deck hardware? Many people on the internet swear by butyl tape, but I also get the sense that it's a little retro.

 

[exoduse35]

Go retro! check the site for the proper way to bed with butyl tape. There is a great primmer on here somewhere. It works! By the way, the "old way" is often better. The problem is that many of the good materials have been killed by the EPA etal. I don't understand using "water based products" on a boat,,,But that is another thread.

 

[TRMN8R]

I agree with what y'all are saying about the projects taking more time than expected. Woodwork on Easter took 4x the time I thought it would take, just because of the amount of shopping I had to do to get started. I'm not even into the first project on my list, and I already suffered a setback: schoolwork kept me from going to my boat at all this week :0. Besides, I'd want to budget some time to hang out with neighbors and do research.I'm embarrassed to admit that my plan for dealing with tools falling over the side was to not drop tools over the side. Come think of it, it will be far, far safer to do deck work on the hard. How bad would it be to go sailing with that soft spot on the bow? I'll be the only person on the boat most of the time. I'll just keep avoiding that spot. And if I have guests, I'll tell them not to step on it. And anyway, I don't have a roller furler, so my jib will be sitting on that soft spot for much the time.And going off on a tangent, what's everyone's experience with butyl caulking tape vs. silicone for bedding deck hardware? Many people on the internet swear by butyl tape, but I also get the sense that it's a little retro.

Rebed with 3M 4000 or 4200. Lifecaulk is acceptable but I favor 3M. Make sure to rid the bonding surfaces of any old sealant, carefully sand if necessary and clean up before rebeding. Lastly, make sure to put sealant in the holes where the screws go. You should use enough so that the sealant oozes out beyond the rebedded hardware. Hope this helps!

 

[bigd14]

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects

See this site for a link to using butyl tape for bedding. And much other great information.

I used both butyl and Sikaflex 101 (depending on location) on my boat. Unfortunately I may have used one of the cheaper varieties of butyl tape. I pulled up a fitting I installed one year ago and the butyl was not very sticky. See same link for a butyl tape good source.

Not sure how soft the soft spot is. Does it really deflect a lot when you step on it, or just a bit? How big is it? Also, the rot and damp core will likely extend a long way from the soft spot, so be prepared when you eventually do get in there to fix a lot more than you expect.

Also, for wiring, check out www.genuinedealz.com. Try to figure out what size heat shrink crimp fittings you will want to use ahead of time. They are terribly expensive at West Marine and other boating stores.

Boats!

 

[Walter Pearson]

PO for my E27 also had shore power going into that port lazarette near the fuel tank. It was a scary affair with a housing made out of wood containing a hardware store receptacle and a lot of lamp cord carrying the electrons. I installed a box and proper wiring, but never did like that location and the fact that the shorepower cord was always going across the cockpit and thus in the way. I have relocated the shore power to the starboard side of the cabin with direct access through the hinged door and the breaker housed inside. I suppose the way you are usually tied up in a slip can dictate the better location.

You might also consider just rebedding everything from the top down. Sometimes those leaks can be at the grab rail and go down in various paths and come out somewhere else - such as around port lites. When I finally got to all the leaks, the boat has been dry for over 20 years and I still don't have a battery powered bilge pump. An engine powered bilge pump is still on my to-do list.

Good luck with your ambitious task list. I agree some priorities will be needed and your multiplier for estimated to actual time will probably keep getting bigger.

 

[mherrcat]

When I replaced my windows I used the sealant tape sold at RV stores, which I discovered is not really butyl rubber.

I just came across this "Butyl-Coated PVC Foam Sealing Tape" at McMaster-Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#roof-sealants/=hfm5vu

If I had known about this at the time I probably would have tried it. I like the 3/16" thickness, since the cabin sides have a very slight curve to them.

BTW, the windows are not leaking at all, but if they do in the future, I will try this stuff.

I have also been looking at butyl windshield sealants for possible hardware bedding, but it only seems to be available in black.

 

[Scyph]

The mystery of a black thingie

By my lack of posting, you might guess that NOTHING went according to plan thus far. Thus, my plan in OP is meaningless now. But I'm finally back on my boat, $1500 richer, having graduated, finished up my work, research, school....

My plan this time around is a lot rougher. I want to get out of this marina by June (before I have to pay liveaboard fees). Before I do, I want to fix 1. electricity, 2. motor, and 3. the gaping holes on the bow where the cleats had gotten ripped out. I'll recore and do everything else once on the hard in the super-cheap marina next door, uh, next river.

I'm tracing wires. I found something confusing. I have two 12V batteries. One is connected to the AC charger (which is in turn connected to dock power), and the other is connected.... to a black thingie. The black thingie looks like an outlet of some kind, with six holes (pictured). Any idea what that might be, and why it requires its own battery? My guess would be outboard, but... how?



Edit: That battery is probably done for. It's been like this for AT LEAST since October, and I don't know how the previous owner(s) had maintained it.

 

[Scyph]

The black thingie turned out to be an outlet for the auto tiller.

Since that last post, I connected all four 12V deep cycle batteries that I had into a single bank (I'll change things around later) to charge them all up. There's only one "good" battery in that bank. It had a charger on it the whole time. One crybaby battery never quits charging, and one other is its twin. I bought them both together, used. One battery had been left sitting without charge for months. I have a 6 amp 13 V charger on that bank that used to never go off, probably because of the crybaby battery. But finally it has! Hopefully, I didn't damage my batteries in the process. Next year, when I have money, I'll buy 4 brand new identical batteries. This year, I have to make do with what I have.

I got my automatic bilge pump working. It worked great for a while. But then, it turned on and wouldn't shut off. It's a Rule-Mate 500. Someone else on the internet had had this problem with it, but it was new enough to return. My problem, I believe, is that the bilge is full of black powdery gunk. It clogs up the pump, and prevents it from shutting off. Spraying it with a hose stops it. But I can't rely on a hose when out sailing, or when away from the boat. I'll try lifting it up in the bilge, so that it stays away from the gunk that settles on the bottom.

I have two radios, a handheld and a stationary. Both get the weather channels no problem. But neither receives signal from other radios, including each other. When I test them, they sort of just hiss a little when I speak into the mic, and I can't hear words. I played with the squelch, but that didn't help. Any ideas?

Sometime next week, I'll be recoring the bow. I'll post step by step pictures when I do.

 

[Eric30]

To test your VHF try using the Automated Radio Check

http://www.seatow.com/boating-safety/automated-radio-checks

It is pretty cool as it replays your voice

 

[toddster]

To test your VHF try using the Automated Radio Check

http://www.seatow.com/boating-safety/automated-radio-checks

It is pretty cool as it replays your voice

Interesting idea. Available in Nebraska and North Dakota, but not anywhere in the NW or the Great Lakes confused

I would tend to suspect the antenna connection to the fixed radio. Either at the antenna or at the radio. If you can get hold of a SWR / signal strength meter you can test your antenna connection and both transmitters. Be sure it's one made for VHF radios, not CB's. (There's some chatter on the internet about how to make a CB meter work for VHF, but then if it doesn't work, it seems to me you don't know whether your radio or your meter isn't working.) They're around $20 - $40 but you might be able to borrow one for an hour.

 

[davisr]

vhf issues

On the subject of VHF issues, this article might be helpful:http://www.sailnet.com/forums/miscellaneous/22190-there-nothing-wrong-your-radio.html

 

[Scyph]

Awesome! Thanks, guys. That Sea Tow is a pretty useful tool. I just did some tests, and figured out that:

1. my (brand new) handheld radio both transmits and receives well
2. the stationary radio can't hear the handheld at 5W, but it does hear the Sea Tow transmission, which I expect is far more powerful than 5W

I'm guessing it's just like toddster suggested: the stationary antenna is busted somewhere. I should stop testing busted radios using busted radios.

 

[CamD]

On the topic of Butyl vs. caulk, I have had far greater success with butyl. It doesn't break down or harden up like the caulks do but stays pliable indefinitely. Unlike caulk you can break a little piece off the roll and knead it into the right shape rather than opening a new tube of caulk that dries up before the next time you need it ($$$). I have rebedded almost everything above the waterline on my E29 with less than one roll of 1/8" x 1/2" butyl that costs about $20 (I got it for free from a friend who owns a glass shop). You should be able to get it at any glass shop for cheap--just make sure it is grey NOT BLACK! It is a far better product than the alternatives in pretty much every way imaginable (unless you are a shareholder in 3M).