Installing track on the rail ?
- Thread starter Sven
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- installing rail track
Rail track
Not sure what or where you are referring to, Sven. Do you mean genoa track out on the toe rail? The primary reason for this is likely for outboard leads when reaching, right? If so, there may be a better solution: Put a couple of padeyes out as far as you can on the deck (and still be able to through bolt them). Put them about 8-10" forward of where your headsails normally sheet. You can run a "short sheet" through a block on the padeye to the clew, and take the other end to a free winch (cabin top?) and you can now move the clew progressively farther outboard as your sail deeper angles (using both sheets until you are fully on the outboard lead). This gives plenty of adjustment, and when you consider it would be a lot of track for just a few locations, it makes sense from a cost, weight, and installation point of view.
If you missed you completely, sorry!
Enjoy!
S
Not sure what or where you are referring to, Sven. Do you mean genoa track out on the toe rail? The primary reason for this is likely for outboard leads when reaching, right? If so, there may be a better solution: Put a couple of padeyes out as far as you can on the deck (and still be able to through bolt them). Put them about 8-10" forward of where your headsails normally sheet. You can run a "short sheet" through a block on the padeye to the clew, and take the other end to a free winch (cabin top?) and you can now move the clew progressively farther outboard as your sail deeper angles (using both sheets until you are fully on the outboard lead). This gives plenty of adjustment, and when you consider it would be a lot of track for just a few locations, it makes sense from a cost, weight, and installation point of view.
If you missed you completely, sorry!
Enjoy!
S
Sven
Seglare
Hi Seth,
You didn't miss
Yes, it is the toerail I was wondering about. In my away-from-the-water musings I was thinking how handy it would be to have such a track for movable fender cleats, a movable cleat for a springline and any number of sheeting options.
The question was asked mainly from engineering curiosity, rather than specific plans to install one. Since the tracks are as wide as the toe rail I was wondering how they could possibly be through bolted ?
How's your new career ? Do yo do any freelance Doyle sail sales ?
-Sven
You didn't miss
Yes, it is the toerail I was wondering about. In my away-from-the-water musings I was thinking how handy it would be to have such a track for movable fender cleats, a movable cleat for a springline and any number of sheeting options.
The question was asked mainly from engineering curiosity, rather than specific plans to install one. Since the tracks are as wide as the toe rail I was wondering how they could possibly be through bolted ?
How's your new career ? Do yo do any freelance Doyle sail sales ?
-Sven
toe rail track
Many E-boats have this outboard track. IIRC, it was simply bolted down through the top half of the deck while the deck was off the hull (pre-hull/deck joining). The joint consists of 2 outward flanges(top and bottom) which are laid together, sealed with 5200, then screwed down tight through the flanges. They are then glassed together on the inside (before any interior is fitted). When this has set up, the flanges, with all the screws, are cut off on the outside, leaving just enough of a "lip" to slide the rubrail base over. I think the rubrail base is then screwed into the joint (with sealant of course). Then the actual rubber is slid into the channel in the rubrail base.
And there you have it
Many E-boats have this outboard track. IIRC, it was simply bolted down through the top half of the deck while the deck was off the hull (pre-hull/deck joining). The joint consists of 2 outward flanges(top and bottom) which are laid together, sealed with 5200, then screwed down tight through the flanges. They are then glassed together on the inside (before any interior is fitted). When this has set up, the flanges, with all the screws, are cut off on the outside, leaving just enough of a "lip" to slide the rubrail base over. I think the rubrail base is then screwed into the joint (with sealant of course). Then the actual rubber is slid into the channel in the rubrail base.
And there you have it
Thanks!
Thanks, Seth,
I thought you would know. So, in case if that track is ripped off, I guess there is pretty much nothing that can be done to re-attach it properly... Nice. Good to know, too - I was going to try docking in high wind using a mid-ship cleat that sits on that track... I guess I better don't.
Thanks again,
Stanly
Thanks, Seth,
I thought you would know. So, in case if that track is ripped off, I guess there is pretty much nothing that can be done to re-attach it properly... Nice. Good to know, too - I was going to try docking in high wind using a mid-ship cleat that sits on that track... I guess I better don't.
Thanks again,
Stanly
gareth harris
Sustaining Member
Part of my rail was damaged in the hurricane, so I had to start digging. In order to get access to the bolts of either the track or rub rail, it is necessary to grind away the glass on the inside - I recommend avoiding dealing with it if at all possible.
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972
Tracks
Well,
It IS a nasty job-but it can be done, and I would probably bite the bullet and do it if I had to..
Stanly-should be fine to use it for a sliding cleat for docking-it is strong stuff-don't abuse it of course, but it would have to be very rough abuse for using it for docklines to cause any damage-many people do exactly this, and it should be fine for this purpose..
Good luck!
Well,
It IS a nasty job-but it can be done, and I would probably bite the bullet and do it if I had to..
Stanly-should be fine to use it for a sliding cleat for docking-it is strong stuff-don't abuse it of course, but it would have to be very rough abuse for using it for docklines to cause any damage-many people do exactly this, and it should be fine for this purpose..
Good luck!