Interior finishing

[Hanktoo]

In doing my chain plate repair, I removed the wood paneling that was on the port side. Some of the strips had some pretty good water marking leaving some black marks. If I either bleach or sand the wood down does anyone know what stain or finish would match our interior color? I tried just straight shellac, much too light. I also tried some teak oil which while darker than the shellac is not dark enough or the same hue as the original.

 

[Christian Williams]

I have found that a traditional amber varnish such as Interlux Schooner makes a close match on raw teak or mahogany (satin, for interior).

I've had no luck trying to match stain with Minwood products. Who knows, interior finish may have varied with boats and models. When I took apart the wine cabinet on this boat, the backs of pieces that would not be visible showed a varnish/stain combo applied with a rag--that is, incomplete wipe strokes, not brush strokes.

Always an experiment, this sort of thing. I usually sand an inconspicuous area first to get a preview of the result.

 

[Navman]

I read in some old posts that Ericson had their own stain which they applied and it was a cherry-ish. I tried several stains and different formulas of cherry and got close, but no cigar. I then remembered I had an old can of Behr, European Cherry water based stain laying around. I applied some to some old teak I had sanded and it was an almost perfect match with the interior plywood at the nav station. You may have to do some trials to figure out how much or little to saturate the wood before the wipe off but it worked for me. I applied a light coat and let it sit for a minute then wiped it off. If it was too light I did the same over again until it was the correct color. I also found that it lightened up slightly after drying so if you take your time and do it in stages you can get a really good match. I found it even able to match old exterior teak (after a sanding) with the interior finish. Worth a try!!! Good luck.

 

[Hanktoo]

Thanks gentlemen. I have been doing some experimenting and think I may have found something. When I was sanding a piece, the sandpaper was getting gummed up, and looked like a hard finish. So I tried some Cetol and that seems to be a pretty good match for what I have. I use Cetol on the wood handrails topside, but it comes up yellowish, but that's not mahogany wood. I'll play some more. I put the Cetol on the backside of the board for the test, now I have to steel myself for the real deal. Of course the other issue now is getting to a store or other supplies with so much shut down. Even the Cetol I have is an old can which has got to be 2yrs old at this point.

 

[Hanktoo]

Well I did the first coat of one board with the Cetol and its a match!. However, even the satin looks a lot glossier than the old, but that's to be expected. God knows how long the old coat was on there, she's a 74

 

[Kenneth K]

I've used this on small repairs I've made to the sole. Matched pretty well. Not sure how well the match would be on large areas.

 

[Filkee]

I used this and then coated with Epifanes when I replaced the cabin trunk panels.

 

[kapnkd]

I've used this on small repairs I've made to the sole. Matched pretty well. Not sure how well the match would be on large areas.

View attachment 33476

I too used the “Gunstock” but by MinWax with great results on a large scale project. All bulkheads were replaced as well as adding custom built features along with needed replacement of a couple other wood panel areas.

My concern was to get a consistent wood color with original Mahogany woods and the newly added bulkheads and miscellaneous panels/shelving. Out of budget and availability necessity, I was mix matching different types of wood. Also, the original wood color had lightened up considerably since ‘73. I really wanted a more generic Teak/Mahogany color stain.

Colors as named on the cans were disappointing until I tried the “Gunstock” flavor. Not an absolute true Mahogany or Teak match but one that brought both together in uniform color and look.

Here’s a couple photos to taken while still working on it all for review.

 

[Hanktoo]

That looks more how my interior handrails came out. I used teak oil and then shellac. Nice shine really sharp. But I need to match the existing on this part, so the Cetol looks the trick. I sanded the boards and they are very different in terms of grain and color and therefore how they accepted the paint in the past. Here's a sanded piece.

 

[Hanktoo]

Here's the first one I painted with Cetol. Just one coat so far. It's definitely a match for what's there albeit glossier. I believe this to be original, there is no evidence this was taken apart previously.

 

[kapnkd]

Here's the first one I painted with Cetol. Just one coat so far. It's definitely a match for what's there albeit glossier. I believe this to be original, there is no evidence this was taken apart previously. View attachment 33490

Nice!! Your finish work is bringing out a look that shows a depth of the grain. (Kind of like looking at a metallic paint job)

Here’s my finished main bulkhead brace and yet to be finished corresponding door sill jam for the other side. Amazing how nice the old wood comes back with a deep finish and a little extra effort.

 

[HerbertFriedman]

There are several versions of Cetol, the original which is quite dark, a light and a new one which says it is the same color as plain varnish. Which did your use?

 

[Hanktoo]

Can says Cetol Marine protective translucent

 

[HerbertFriedman]

ahh, I think this version is the latest, that being "natural" or "varnish like"

 

[ChrisS]

Nice!! Your finish work is bringing out a look that shows a depth of the grain. (Kind of like looking at a metallic paint job)

Here’s my finished main bulkhead brace and yet to be finished corresponding door sill jam for the other side. Amazing how nice the old wood comes back with a deep finish and a little extra effort.

View attachment 33500

That looks really nice. Would you please describe the process a bit more? Did you sand, and then stain, followed by varnish?

 

[HerbertFriedman]

Chris, there is a nice Saber on F dock which has had all the brightwork stripped lightly sanded to get the raised grain smoothed out and then 10 coats of Epithanes applied. Talking to the pro who did the work , 10 is the minimum to get that really nice look. Lots of work

 

[ChrisS]

Hi Herb, at some point I will tackle the interior, maybe not to pro level quality, but some level of refresh! Really missing the Wednesday night Beer Cans...my start would be in 62 minutes if the race was running!

 

[kapnkd]

That looks really nice. Would you please describe the process a bit more? Did you sand, and then stain, followed by varnish?

Thanks...sorry for not being more descriptive.

The marine grade Mahogany veneer ply was indeed first sanded lightly with 120 and then again with 220 before applying the stain. (One consistently applied coating gave me the color I wanted on the bulkheads. On a couple other smaller different type of Oak shelving it took a couple coats of stain to get a matching color. For Teakwood, just varnish alone was applied)

The brand of varnish used was two coats of Interlux Goldspar satin finish with a light 220 sanding of the first coat. I seriously considered hand rubbing the varnish but decided against the extra efforts given the many many other major projects we were doing.

One of first areas and my favorite “redo” was the hard to get to small shelf above the hanging locker. The rail made it impossible to get at properly until the locker was removed when installing the new bulkheads.

 

[jamescio]

It looks great...I played around last year with a water based polyurethane and was fairly please with the results.

 

[kapnkd]

It looks great...I played around last year with a water based polyurethane and was fairly please with the results.View attachment 33614View attachment 33614View attachment 33614View attachment 33615View attachment 33616View attachment 33615

WOWZERS!!! Beautiful results and gorgeous finish! What brand of water-based finish is it?? ...I LOVE keeping things more simple - especially cleanups when results are equal or better!