Kenyon Gooseneck Reinforcing Plates

[Nick J]

• replace the double block at the gooseneck with a single block and only run the mainsheet through it.
• install a doubler bracket at the base of the vang (somethign like this: https://www.westmarine.com/seoladair-vang-purchase-doubler-with-shackles-16945669.html)
• use a block or low friction ring on the boom and run a new piece of line from the doubler, through the new block, and attach to the top of the 4:1
• run the tail from the 4:1 through the block at the base of the mast, the rest of the run will be the same (this is the same setup I have which will result in a 10:1.

As far as function goes, The biggest advantage I see out of a boom vang is the ability to eliminate one variable form mainsheet sail trim. Without a vang, the mainsheet controls leech tension and angle of attach (in combination with the traveler). If you can set the leech tension with the vang, the sheet and traveler can be dedicated to angle of attach. I'd be interested to hear how other people use the vang, but that may be best moved to a new post.

 

[goldenstate]

I’ve been thinking of rigging an 8:1 boom vang on our 38 but this thread has me second guessing myself. Anyone have an idea how much extra stress that could put on my gooseneck? Is it something I should worry about?

I think the acute force of a fast gybe is more apt to reveal the design weakness of the Kenyon boom end than gradual tension from a vang.

I was able to get a replacement fitting fairly easily but they are not cheap.

 

[southofvictor]

• replace the double block at the gooseneck with a single block and only run the mainsheet through it.
• install a doubler bracket at the base of the vang (somethign like this: https://www.westmarine.com/seoladair-vang-purchase-doubler-with-shackles-16945669.html)
• use a block or low friction ring on the boom and run a new piece of line from the doubler, through the new block, and attach to the top of the 4:1
• run the tail from the 4:1 through the block at the base of the mast, the rest of the run will be the same (this is the same setup I have which will result in a 10:1.

As far as function goes, The biggest advantage I see out of a boom vang is the ability to eliminate one variable form mainsheet sail trim. Without a vang, the mainsheet controls leech tension and angle of attach (in combination with the traveler). If you can set the leech tension with the vang, the sheet and traveler can be dedicated to angle of attach. I'd be interested to hear how other people use the vang, but that may be best moved to a new post.

Thanks for the idea Nick, that sounds like a good plan. I found the heavier version of the doubler on Mauripro. It has a 6000lb breaking strength. I think I’ll give it a try!

 

[southofvictor]

Following up on this post about the effect of more vang purchase on the boom. I’ve broken two vang boom bails since I installed the doubler to make my vang 10:1. The first I chalked up to an old fitting. The second time I realized the bail probably wasn’t engineered for the additional load. I put a dyneema strop around the boom in place of the bail and it’s held but my gooseneck started making ugly noises. I pulled the 10:1 setup and went back to the original.
Both times the bail broke were at night in sloppy seas after the wind died and the boom was getting banged around with the vang still on. My guess is there was too much dyneema and not enough nylon in the system for the shock loading when the boom came hard against the vang, and the bail broke.