Lost power to Universal engine panel

[gabosifat]

Hi All,

We were out yesterday sailing & on the way home I glanced at the engine panel to check RPM, temp, oil pressure and charging. I did a double take because at first I noticed the tach reading only 5000 rpm, then I noticed all of the other gauges were dead. Silly me - I thought well maybe the key wasn't properly in the ignition slot, so I pulled the stop cable to shut down the engine - big mistake. Went to try to start it again and nothing - no alarm when key on, no starter - everything dead.

We got home ok by strapping the dingy to the side of the boat & using the outboard to pull us along. I haven't had a chance to check out the wiring yet but I'm hoping it's just a broken wire or a fuse or something simple. Has anyone else had a similar experience, or suggestions as to where to start looking? Incidently, a couple of sails ago my wife went to shut off the engine & made the mistake of turning off the key before pulling the stop lever. She quickly realized what she'd done & turned the key back on before pulling the stop lever - I'm hoping this hasn't fried the diodes on the alternator. I was thinking it hadn't because everything seemed to be normal, and the gauge showed the batteries were charging.

Our engine is a Universal M35A with an Admiral engine panel.
Any suggestions as to where I should start my troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,
Steve Gabbott
"Silent Dancer" E35/3
Vancouver BC

 

[Geoff Johnson]

I believe that turning off the key will only turn off the fuel pump. Switching off the battery switch with the engine running will fry your diodes. If your tach works, then your alternator is working.

Sounds like your wiring is showing its age. Look at the "Projects" page on this site under "Universal Diesel Engine Mods" and you will see the wiring diagram with some useful upgrades. I would start with the contacts on the ingition switch (remove the wires and clean the contacts), then go to the the harness connector (unplug it and clean off corrsosion). If that doesn't work then you will have to do some investigative work with a voltmeter.

I've had my iginition and tach crap out. Fiddling with the wires got them going again. Since then, I have done enough rewiring to basically bypass the harness.

 

[diamondjim]

Lost Power to engine panel

In addition to the previous suggestions, install a remote starter switch in your engine compartment. If you ever have the same trouble again, you will be able to start your engine w/o the panel switches. The switch can also be used for maintenance items as well.
<> Jim

 

[Jeff Meier]

clean your connectors

i agree with geoff about cleaning the connections on your ignition switch. in my experience (though limited) every engine electrical problem i have has been because of corrosion on the terminals. it's a good idea to clean every terminal now, including the ground at the engine..

i regularly turn off the ignition switch immediately prior to stopping the engine just so that i do not get the oil pressure alarm buzzing in my ear. -i particularly like it when transitioning from motoring to sailing when the engine is turned off and the sound you hear goes from rumbling engine to wind and sea. it's a great feeling of reprieve. the buzzer right at that moment (even for a second) is distracting.

 

[Geoff Johnson]

My engine came without a buzzer, although I have been thinking of adding an Aqualarm for water flow. What are the chances of having low oil pressure (assuming the level is checked regularly). Wouldn't that require a catastrophic engine failure?

 

[Jeff Meier]

Wouldn't that require a catastrophic engine failure?

not necesarily, my last boat had a similar universal engine (5411) and one day the dip stick tube gasket gave out and filled the bilge with oil while the engine was running. there was no alarm or pressure guage on that boat so i had no way of knowing about it until i was back at the dock and did my routine checks. i don't know how long it ran without oil but miraculously there wasn't any damage to the engine.

according to the PO the buzzer on this boat is also tied into the coolant temp. any audible alarm is great on a boat, especially when the guages are difficult to see from anywhere other than sitting at the helm.

jeff

 

[u079721]

In line fuse?

I had this happen to me, and both times it was a blown 20 amp in line mini-fuse mouted next to the alternator and starter. I've no idea what this fuse protects, but when it goes the engine won't start, and everything is dead. Not sure what prompted me to suspect that fuse, but I saw it hanging there and figured I would check it, and sure enough it was gone, and replacing it brought everything back to life.

The third time it happened it was the fuse holder itself that had gone bad, so I replaced it with a new waterproof rugged version.

 

[Geoff Johnson]

I believe the 20 amp fuse protects the solenoid (see wiring diagram referenced above).

 

[gabosifat]

Lost power to panel

Hi All,

Just to follow up, Steve Christianson was correct. After a short search I found the 20 amp circuit which showed on the schematic diagram. Pressed it to reset and everything works normally now. I'm still a bit miffed as to why it would happen in the first place though. I'm thinking that it would trip if there is a current surge, but maybe they just get sensitive after a while? Anyway, many thanks to all who responded.

Steve