Main Halyard to Cockpit--Help Please

Gmilburn

Gmilburn

Member III
Hi all,
I'm wanting to run the main halyard from the mast back to a cabin top winch--to be able to hoist the main--without going forward. It appears that the previous owner had it rigged that way as the winch and cleat are there but the blocks at the base of the mast are gone and screws remain (either that or this is a stock option on an E29, and the screws have been there since day one). I have attached a photo of the mast (to the left) and the screws. Regardless, I need help in choosing the two blocks that 1) make the rope halyard make the turn from the mast at the cabin top and 2) make the turn back to the winch and cleat. I want to use the existing holes. I've spent time on the Schaefer and Harken sites and the plethora of blocks and options, leave me more confused. So far I think I need a Halyard Lead Block (also called a Lift Block) and a Turning Cheek Block. However, my gut says I ought to be looking at a spring upright block, to twist and turn with the various stresses. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Gary
"Hydrophilic" 1977 E29 Hull 515
 

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Dave Hussey

Member III
Hi Gary,
my feeling is that you wont need a spring-standup block since the halyard will be under tension all the time that the main is raised or lowered anyway, and it might prove to be an obstacle that could snag the Genny sheets or spinnaker on tacking maneuvers with the spring. (just a thought) As long as the halyard run is fair, i.e., has no chafing on its route to the cabin top winch and clutch or cleat, you should be in good shape. I have a swivel block mounted on the deck at the base of the mast, and a line organizer that aims the halyard back to the cockpit.
Having the main halyard running aft is a good idea for reefing too...you can drop the main to the reefing marks, and then tie off the dangly thingies on the main to the boom when it blows :egrin:
 
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Morgan Stinemetz

Moderator
Hi, Dave,
Those dangly thingies that one uses to tie off the reefed part of the main are called nettles. I have no idea why.
Morgan Stinemetz
 
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TwistedLogic

Member II
The cheek block bolt pattern looks like the schaefer template. If you can measure the bolt pattern, I can compare it to mine and give you a part number.
 
simdim

simdim

Member II
Garry,
I do not think that screws you see are stock, I do not have them on my 79 E29.
However I do plan the similar project (contingent on the cost of repair of my mysterious coolant leak in yanmar).
The plan is to follow what Harken suggests http://www.harken.com/rigtips/mastbase.php ( as in 3 halyard diagram for midsized boat). In my mind it make sense to bring everything back and make it all uniform.
I do want to avoid the number of trough deck bolts and planning to fabricate SS shelf to attach to mast on port and starboard sides so it will house harken 1986 (http://www.harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/scpdinw1.showProd?B4RPMEB9Y97TYO) or to mount a number of 3112 (http://www.harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/scpdinw1.showProd?409Z56LC66292)directly to the mast (3 on on side and 2 on another with back plates) to run main, jib, spinnaker and spare halyards and rif line. The concern is - will that many bolted to the mast blocks compromize the integrity of the structure.
In a spot you labled "cheek blocks" I am planning to put deck organazers harken 1501 (http://www.harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/scpdinw1.showProd?B4RPMEB9Y8VKN4) or simular.
In a sumer spent racing as a crew I had also leared that clutches are better then cleats :), and for every sheave I am planning to install a clutch.

All that could be totaly off base since I am not a real salor - just play one on weekends :egrin:.

Cheers,
 
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