portlight repair gasket

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Maybe I misread that. I thought that JPS27 was proposing to try to caulk around the outside of an already bedded port. Much as POs of my boat attempted to do with a variety of substances. And as I have tried around the handrails, which apparently can’t be removed without destroying them. :rolleyes:
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Moderator
Blogs Author
Could be. Anyhow, I agree that afterthought solutions don't usually work. If there's a leak after re-bedding something went wrong.

I do plenty of jobs over, it's just part of the deal.
 

JPS27

Member III
Sorry, toddster, I meant I'd take the port out and start over.

Is sikaflex 291 like lifecaulk or should I stick with Lifecaulk?

I'm leaning strong toward doing that one port with caulk based on what I've read on this site. I love butyl but this one port is pesky. Thanks,
Jay
 

alcodiesel

Member III
That starboard aft one is pesky on my boat too!! That one I rebeded with butyl tape and got the leak stopped but now the glass to frame is leaking- that's where I drizzled the tolleys. Slower but still leaking. I will add more tolleys next warmish day.
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
Does anyone know where to get a gasket that fits between the glass and frame for a fixed portlight an a Ericson 35.Iwill be repairing a leaking window soon . Any suggestions greatly appreciated:confused:

I was lucky to get the left over window gasket material from a friend who re-did his Pearson 30. I think I still have the contact info but can't get my hands on it for another week or two. If/when I find it, I'll send it to you. Their prices were cheaper than the window kits sold by Catalina Yachts.

Also, ...IF it's just a slight leak - you may want to consider "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" that comes in 8oz bottles. You can get it at West Marine or Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Captain-Toll...qid=1517933832&sr=8-1&keywords=captain+tolley)

After re-bedding all my glass with new seal material I had one or two with a slight leak. Captain Tolley's is more of a penetrating solution of silicon that is water based and it actually stopped the leaks!

Biggest problem in the overall project I encountered was closing up the two haves of the aluminum frames around the large ports. (The sloped angle of design made it difficult to squeeze back together properly.)

Here's a link to another comment of mine with an illustration of how I clamped the frames back together. (http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?14891-Portlite-sealing&p=106802#post106802)
...Illustration: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/attachment.php?attachmentid=21955&d=1493657747
 
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footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Sorry, toddster, I meant I'd take the port out and start over.

Is sikaflex 291 like lifecaulk or should I stick with Lifecaulk?

I'm leaning strong toward doing that one port with caulk based on what I've read on this site. I love butyl but this one port is pesky. Thanks,
Jay

LifeCalk is a polysulfide, which is a weaker adhesive on metal and gelcoat. Polysulfides remain flexible and are easier to remove than polyurethanes after they cure. In my experience polysulfides will start to leak after a few years when used to seal metal against gelcoat on a large fixture. Sikaflex 291 is a polyurethane, which is generally a better adhesive than polysulfide. So, a polyurethane remains flexible, sticks a little better but is harder to remove when cured than a sulfide. I've started to bed deck hardware, especially if it is on non-skid patterns, with polyurethanes. I used polysulfide (LifeCalk) to bed my opening ports (Bomar) and have had no trouble after 10 years+. With these calk-type sealers you really need to fill up the voids and get some squeeze out to get a lasting seal. The hardware that secures any frame into an opening needs to be tightened properly to reduce movement as much as possible. That usually means for a port frame you're not over-torquing the fasteners, just getting them good and snug and fully coating them also.

A quick search of the makers (Boatlife, Sikaflex) or the terms (polysulfide, polyurethane) will pull up comparisons and recommendations for the materials.
 
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Farlander

Member II
I am about to reseal some portlights today using the Catalina kit on my E35 1970.

The kit comes with sikaflex and with Dow silicone. Does the silicone go between the frame/gasket?
Or between the glazing/gasket?
Or both?

Thanks sorry for bumping old thread..
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
I am about to reseal some portlights today using the Catalina kit on my E35 1970.

The kit comes with sikaflex and with Dow silicone. Does the silicone go between the frame/gasket?
Or between the glazing/gasket?
Or both?

Thanks sorry for bumping old thread..

We didn’t have the Catalina Kit but instead an exact shaped OEM extrusion by a company close to Cleveland, O.

No silicone or other material was used between the glass and rubber/vinyl seal or to the seal to aluminum frame.

In turn - when the frame halves were reassembled, we bedded those to the fiberglass cabin port cutouts with a roll of butyl rubber.

...(2 years now and only two minor leak areas that were easily fixed with a few drops of Capt. Tolley’s silicone seal.)
 

Farlander

Member II
1970 E35
I tried today and broke the glass while tapping the frame together with rubber hammer. WAY too much sealant in fram channel, about 1/4 bead all the way of the dow.
Recommends:
Lube the new gasket (Catalina 27 kit)
Use very little or none Dow 975
Use butyl tape for deck seal
Have big wood clamps or jig ready, and/or lots of friends
 
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