Ranger 33 to an Ericson 34?

[Ahab]

I am considering upgrading from a 1975 Ranger 33 to an 1987 Ericson 34 and would like some advice from Ericson owners.

Things that I like about the Ranger 33
-Speed (under sail)
-Encapsulated lead keel (no keel bolts)
-Seaworthy design (no weather helm)
-Turning radius
-Great looking boat

Things I would like to gain
-Interior room and quality joinery, more wood
-Skeg hung rudder (Ranger 33’s rudder hung from a post, no skeg, I am always afraid of it falling off)
-Speed under power
-Less maintenance
-Room for davits

I like the Ericsons large interior (3 cabin) and history of quality construction.
Was the 87 model made by Pacific Seacraft?
How is the blistering?
Does it have a skeg hung rudder?
Teak and holly sole?
Any problems with the keel bolts?
What is a fair price for a good condition 87 Ericson 34?

 

[Loren Beach]

From one classic to another?

Firstly, you need to d/l the late model E-34 specs and associated files from the Specs and Docs forum on this site.
You will find that some of your comparisons are, perhaps, apples to oranges.
The change in interior volume will be astounding, for one.
Your question about year and maker -- PSC bought the Ericson tooling sometime in late '90. All of the Ericson 34 models you find will be built by Ericson; PSC re-named this model the "350" or somesuch name.

All of the "things liked" on your list should hold true for the E-34 (or the Olson 34 or even the E-35 mk3, for what it's worth).

On the list of "things wanted" you will not get a skeg-hung rudder. Design-wise, this should be a non issue for any boat. The designer specs out an apropriate size rudder shaft and interior bracing. This was true for the Mull-designed Ranger Yachts, as well. Even the circumnavigating-many-times Cascade 29's and 36's were designed with spade rudders. They never fail, AFAIK. Hun--r rudder shafts, OTOH, *do* fail in blue water, reflecting their lower design strength. (Not a knock on Hun--rs, just commenting on engineering for intended use.)


Note that while there is a *potential* for more strength with a skeg, there is equally a chance for poor glass layup down inside the long pointy mold used to make that skeg... The strength designed into the skeg may or may not be present after production layup... :eek:

When you say "less maint." I am not sure what you really mean. Your present boat is easily old enough to be on its second engine and third set of standing rigging, and second galley remodel, and second rebed of all deck fittings, and refinish of the exterior, and... etc. This is par for all boats -- much worse for low-end boats and normal for Tartans, Valiants, and... Hinckleys. The 15 year old boat you buy will still need regular upgrading, over time...
I have an '88 Ericson-built Olson 34 and enjoy the high build quality. I still have to redo systems that reach the end of their design life... even Harken stuff reaches that point.

It's like when I help a friend rebuild parts of the '83 Hunter he bought for a song... He found that the factory installed one $20. bilge pump. My boat (and the E-34) will have a $250 manual bilge pump and a $135 electric diaphram pump installed; both are rebuildable. My electrical panel has twice the breakers as his. My interior is better constructed and far better designed for life under way. And so on...

You can easily check the PHRF numbers for both boats. You are used to a "plastic classic" fast racer-cruiser. I believe that you would also find the Ericson a good performer on and off the wind, showing the talant of designer Bruce King.
I cannot speak for blistering of other boats, but my '88 had some moderate blistering on one area of the bottom, about 3 X 2 feet, and was not into the laminate -- classic blisters under the gel coat. Faired in '95 -- no problem since.
I have had the keel rebedded due to a seeping bolt, dry since. I reported it here in the maint. forum. You will like having an external keel -- when you hit a rock you only get a divot in the lead to fill and fair -- no glass repair.

I like the T and H sole, I refinished mine because the first owner gave it no care at all.
I am sure you have looked at the Ericsons available in the YachtWorld.com directory. Price will always be what a willing buyer and seller agree on... and I note that there is one for sale in Seattle for about 62K that needs some minor cleaning up. An astoundingly-complete and turn-key E-35 Mk3 just sold in Seattle for a quick $65K. A friend of mine bought an E-32-3 here in PDX this summer for 49k -- it was on the market for less than a week.
The mid to late 80's Ericsons are not "better" than other high end production boats of their era, but they are good examples of how you can have good sailing design, usable interior spaces, and solid construction, in a modern-looking small yacht.

To my biased view, they're are among the last boats before the power-boat-with-a-mast-and-a-condo-at-the-dock-interior trend came into full strength to subvert what remains of the "sailing" market. (end of rant!)


Thank you. I feel much better now...


There are quite a few E-34 owners on this server, and most lurk also over at the Ericson forum at Sailnet.com. I have found this group to be helpful, articulate, and patient with my boat and engine questions. Please ask anything you want!

Best,
Loren in Portland, OR
Olson 34 #8 (owned it 8 years plus...)

 

[ccorcoran]

I think Loren covered just about everything; just thought I'd add my .02. We own an '87 E34 (my 3rd Ericson). We shopped for the boat for 6 months up and down the west coast and finally found her right here in Alameda. The 34 is a great boat. It's well-built, spacious, easy to sail and a good all-around perfomer for cruising and occassional racing. Again, Loren is right abrout upgrades and maintenance -- it's a boat and no matter what you do, things wear-out and require replacement/rebuilding. Our engine had less than 250hrs when we bought it; it still needed a major service, upgrades to the cooling system, etc. The standing and rigging needed replacement and a new set of sails was in order. All that for a boat that was in "exceptional" condition. At the end of the day, however, I think any invetments made in a late model Ericson are worth it. Late 80s E34 range from a low of $50K to as much as $80K+. As for blistering, that's not uncommon in late 80s Ericsons. I've owned an 86 E28 (bought new and had minor blistering); an 86 E38, bought used with minor blistering. When we pulled the E34 for the survey (and a new botttom) we found a 2, 2X4 ft. areas of micro blisters that were easily repaired/faired. If the boat you buy has been routinely maintained (new paint every year or two and regular inspections) it shouldn't be a problem. As you might have guessed, I'm an Ericson loyalist and -- no matter how good that Beneteau 47.7 looks, it just isn't $200K better than our E34!

 

[escapade]

Ahab;
What can I add to what Loren, Chris & Wendy have said. We bought an E34 1988 vintage last year. This is also my 3rd Ericson. Bought @ low end of price range w/expected amount of work that goes along with buying something someone has been neglected for several years. Bottom had LOTS of surface blisters but laminate was still sound. About $750.00 for material and lot's of elbow grease fixes that problem. This was a boat that was in the water for at least 7 years w/o a haulout!!
We really liked the layout and have absolutely no regrets even after all the work we have done over the last 18 months! We use it for cruising & Wed. night "beer can races". The layout is very comfortable and we are learning how to make her competive to her PHRF rating (base rate of 123, our JAM rating is 135). We have beat T10's heads up and run w/C&C 35's, Pearson Flyer's, T10's, and similar boats even in light air. When the wind kick's above 12kn we really start to move. The helm stay's balanced even w/155 in fairly heavy air's (up to 18kn) and the traveler works to depower main above that. Rig set-up will control most of that but if you intend to be competive racing a hydralic backstay would help a ton.
The engineering, as Loren stated, exceeds the minumim standards required for this size. Rigging size's tend to be at least one size larger that what you'd find on a lower priced boat. Keel's and rudder's are strong, good deck hardware, etc. They we're available w/Harken furling & travelers which is something to look for.
There seems to be a tendency for the cabin sole to discolor and/or rot out around the base of the mast. This is due to water running down the inside of the spar and getting on the top's of the FRP stringers. This is mostly a cosmetic problem and teak & holly veneer plywood is about $80.00 per sheet, 2 to 3 sheets required to replace entire sole. All you need is some basic woodworking tools & skills.
Well, I'll get off my soap box for now but if you have more specific questions please feel free to contact me.
Bud 1988 E34 "Escapade"