Remove exhaust flange Universal 5411

[Alsail]

Hi everyone,
I am trying to remove the westerbeke mixing elbow and in order to do that I need to remove the entire assembly including the flange. The nuts came off the posts no problem, but after that everything is rock solid. Any thoughts on how to best remove this? I am using PBblast and will try heating the flange. Another thought is to use two thinner nuts and back one into the other to see if the posts will move ... But any advice would be great!
Thanks
Alex

 

[Kenneth K]

If you got all the nuts off the flange you should be good to go. I had one of the three nuts I couldn't remove.

It can only be rust and a good gasket seal holding it together now. Hopefully you've already drained all the coolant from the engine--more will still likely drain out when you open the flange seal.---edited to add: sorry I was thinking about my M-25, the 5411 is likely different.

I'd try heat, tapping/pounding, and rocking/pulling/prying the top of the exhaust riser away from the engine. I don't see how backing the flange studs out would help at all in the situation--just adds more work.

 

[Dave G.]

I would scrape/clean that joint area with utility knife or similar to break up the surface rust. Medium strength tapping around the flange with a brass hammer or light tapping with a steel one should free it up. If not a putty knife pounded into the joint may be necessary.

 

[Alsail]

If you got all the nuts off the flange you should be good to go. I had one of the three nuts I couldn't remove.

It can only be rust and a good gasket seal holding it together now. Hopefully you've already drained all the coolant from the engine--more will still likely drain out when you open the flange seal.---edited to add: sorry I was thinking about my M-25, the 5411 is likely different.

I'd try heat, tapping/pounding, and rocking/pulling/prying the top of the exhaust riser away from the engine. I don't see how backing the flange studs out would help at all in the situation--just adds more work.

Thanks,
yes - the 5411 only has 2 nuts, and is raw water cooled. I will continue the tapping - I started doing that (no movement), but was worried that the flange studs could get bent (that was why I wanted to see if I can get them out first).
Thanks
Alex

 

[Second Star]

Could try a nut splitter at the joint, alternating sides to wedge it off. That would reduce the risk of damage to the engine side of the fitting through hammering.