Replacing bulhead on E-23

SMLROD

Member II
Has anyone replaced the bulkhead on their E-23?
I am in the process and am concerned about how it is attached to the hull.
The only place that the original bulkhead was attached is at the bottom of the bulkhead with three good size bolts but nothing else anywhere on the hull.
It seems to me that this would allow the entire bulkhead to move to a small degree, up.
I have replaced the original once already and the chain-plate bolts moved up to the underside of the cabin where it held it in place.
I hope someone can suggest an alternate way to secure the bulkhead to the hull.
Your advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

Vagabond39

Member III
E 23- II bulkhead

I have replaced the bulkhead on my E 23 Mk 2. I needed to replace the compression post also, as well as the electrical and Antenna cable that had been routed via the bildge.
Cutting the bulkhead to size and shape, and sliding it into position then drilling the holes for the 1/4 20 bolts and chain plate bolts was the harder part.
The 4" 1/4" bolts go throught the liner tabbing fore and aft. The bulkhead is wedged between the head liner and the hull liner, with the compression post holding the center line portion.
I used to old delaminated bulkhead as a template to cut the new one.
I hope that this helps.
Good luck.
 

SMLROD

Member II
I used the old one as a template also but it did not butt up against the headliner...there is a space between the bulkhead and headliner. The only secure spot is where it is bolted three places near the floor. Maybe I should have made it larger then the original ?
 

Vagabond39

Member III
As I remember it, there were four bolts, one by the compression post. Two under the port berth, and one in the port shelf. I had noticed that their was a gap by the step up behind the berth, and I allowed more materal there. Which I had to remove to get it to seat properly.
How much of a Gap do you have above the bylkhead? Possibly inserting a shim of hardwood thick enough to fill it would help.
Did you remove the port chainplate to install the bulkhead?
Is yours a Mk I or a Mk II?
Bob Boe might be better able to answer this. But I havnt seen him on the site for almost a year.
 

SMLROD

Member II
It is a MK II. The last one made in 1979. Hull #470.
I did take the bulk head out as well as the chainplate.
Only three bolts holding the bulkhead to the boat.
I'm wondering if anyone has drilled more holes along the track the bulkhead fits in to bolt it more securely.
Thanks for any ideas or help.
P.S Bob Boe sails on the same lake as me and I have looked at his boat. He added a backing plate to the bulkhead opposite of the chainplate but I think it might ride up also.
 

Vagabond39

Member III
Well, he definately has much more knowledge of the 23 that I do. A backing plate makes a much more ridgid sandwich of the plywood bulkhead than the washiers that I have.
Best Wishes on finding a good solution.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
I buy slabs of material called G10 in 1/8" or 1/4" thicknesses for these purposes, from McMaster-Carr.

G10 is incredibly strong material - it's the pressurized epoxy/fiberglass laminate that circuit boards are made of.

Wood is a lot cheaper but G10 is completely waterproof, and unlike stainless, it's fairly easy to cut and drill with carbide bits and blades, it takes paint easily, and unlike aluminum, it doesn't corrode.

It's probably the best backing plate material there is. Two years ago, rather than replacing a bulkhead in which a section had rotted, I also used it as a patch for the bulkhead, cutting out the rot and inserting a slab of G10 in its place, and epoxied it it in with 8 layers of fiberglass cloth.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...plates-and-Bulkhead-replace&p=52891#post52891
 
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Vagabond39

Member III
I will agree that McMasters- Car is a good source of materals.
SMLROD:
I neglected to mention that there are two 1/4" x 1 1/2' wood screws through the bulkhead and the molding attaching it to the comkpression post.
 
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