Rope halyard question

[mherrcat]

Getting ready to replace the rope/wire halyards on my E30+ with all rope. I have read a few related threads and was going to go with Sta-Set X. I also considered T-900, but the cost is triple that of Sta-Set X. Any reason not to go with the Sta-Set X? I think 3/8" will be sufficient.

I was planning to have Rigging Only make up the halyards and splice an eye with a headboard shackle on the main halyard. (I believe the jib halyard has a snap shackle.) They have several choices of Wichard headboard shackles with working/breaking loads of 1320/3300, 1650/4840 and 2640/7040; any idea which I need?

Just out of curiousity, as I'm sure Rigging Only will inform me when I call, do the halyard eyes require thimbles in them?

And finally, I planned to use the existing halyards to pull the new halyards into position by taping the new rope halyard to the wire and pulling through. I believe I will have to go top-to-bottom as I think the rope end of the existing halyards will be too big to go through the masthead sheaves. Does anyone forsee any problems with this plan?

Thanks!

 

[Glyn Judson]

Pulling new halyards.

Mark, I recently replaced my old 3/8" halyards with new 3/8" Stay-Set X by cleanly cutting the ends of both old and new, welding them flat at the same time with a heated steak knife. Next, I used whipping thread and a curved needle to join the butt-ended lines together with five or six joints completely around them. Think of the crude stitches on Frankensteins Monster and that's what the lines looked like. We have a 1979 E31 that was factory fitted with aluminum sheaves designed to take wire or rope and the swap-out went flawlessly. In truth it went so well, it was anticlimactic. Give that a go and you'll be done before you know it. Good luck and tell us all how it went, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[Frank Langer]

We have 3/8" Sta-Set X (sp?) halyards with a spliced shackle without a thimble--all of this added by the previous owner, and it works well. No problem with halyard stretch under sail. The line is still a bit stiff, so it's a bit harder to manage in the cockpit and coil than regular line, but it's not a big deal. I'm not sure the breaking strength of this line, but have no reason to doubt it.
Good luck!
Frank

 

[Mindscape]

Sta Setx

I used Sta Setx and have had no problems. I also whipped the old line to the new and pulled it thru with no issues. My new halyards came from Rigging only and have no thimbles, has not been an issue. I do not like the StaSetx for handling. It is very stiff and awkward in the cockpit. I replaced my spin halyard with regular StaSet and it has been fine. I left the genoa halyard StaSetx since once it's up on the furler it's up for pretty much the whole season and the line is coiled and sits on a cleat on the mast. I don't think my genoa halyard has had much if any significant strech. I'm about to replace my main halyard and have not decided on what to use, might use StaSet since it's nice to handle, although it does have a little strech. This line is in the cockpit and for me how it handles is as important as limiting strech.

 

[e38 owner]

Warpspeed

For the main and Jib I used Warpspeed from Defender. It seems to be a value for low stretch line. Then goto the Samson websites. It will tell you how to splice it

 

[escapade]

I've used Sta-Set X on both my 30+ & 34-2 with no problems. Didn't use a thimble and see no issues w/wear after 7 seasons of use. Yes, it is stiffer than regular double-braid but I found it easier to splice. Just follow instructions from manufacture & you should have no problems.

Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 Escapade