Starter Problem

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Tom Greaves

Member I
Excellent results with rebuilt starter

I’m pleased to report that our nagging problems with unreliable engine starting appear to be solved. I made the recommended modifications to the wiring, replaced the solenoid and had the starter rebuilt in one fell swoop. That was 8 weeks ago – no problems since then.

I like to give Dean Ackerman at New England Rebuilt a plug for his fine work on overhauling the starter motor and replacing the solenoid.. He’s located in Salisbury, MA (nine seven eight, four six two, seven nine five two). The starterectomy was accomplished with neither skinned knuckles nor tears by removing the alternator first.
 
jreddington

jreddington

Member III
Update on my project. Finally got the new switch in. Got it from Torrensen Marine. They first send me the wrong switch (three terminal, off/on/start with spring return). They had to do a little research but finally found the right switch (simple off/on two terminal). The threaded body of it is a slightly smaller diameter than the original but once the face and backing nut are tightened it fits secure. One advantage is that the body length is a little shorter so it doesn't project as far into the lazerette. Less chance of it getting damaged or hanging up on something. Disadvantage is that it doesn't have the rubber boot over the key slot. However, it's probably well protected enough where it's mounted in the instrument panel. Weterbeke part number is 33693. I also found that with four spades connected to the load terminal, you couldn't get the screw to engage. I guess this is why on the original switch, that screw looked different (longer). Just used that in my new switch and everything connects fine.

Below are the pictures of the original switch. Note the arrows pointing to the cracks in the body. Because of the cracks, the plastic terminal block on the back of the switch popped out while I was doing the wiring modifications. Was able to pop it back in temporarily until I got the replacement switch. Keep an eye out for these cracks on your switch whenever you have your head in the lazerette.
 

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Tom Greaves

Member I
Starter solenoid blues

Proposition: starter solenoids can be damaged a by bad starter switch.

Imagine a corroded starter switch that is is drawing some current in the "open" position. It draws just enough current to push a few electrons through the solenoid windings but not enough to energize the solenoid.

Could this burn out the solenoid over time?

I'm frustrated by the quality of Cole Hersee switches to begin with. The leads on the potted switches are not tinned -- unlike most of the rest of the wiring on my boat. The non-potted varieties seem to fail me unpredictably. Has anyone found a better supplier?

On the E-28+, the pushbutton is 1 inch above the cockpit drain which means that if your cockpit drains should ever freeze or become plugged with debris, then there is a great chance that the starter pushbutton will get exposed to salt or fresh water.
 
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Bud H.

Member II
FWIW I have the same problem with my Atomic 4 gas engine. No glow plug to worry about so I’ve always figured it was wrong sized wiring. Nothing like turning the key and getting…nothing. Eventually she always fires up. I’ve been thinking about putting a push button to the starter down at the engine to eliminate most of the wiring run as a backup.
 
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Kim Schoedel

Member III
The upgrade to eliminate the process of holding in the glow plug buttom in order to push and activate the starter buttom works great!! I recommend it. And even for a guy like me (electricity challenged) I followed the simple intructions for the upgrade and it worked!!!

Off the subject a bit but maybe not. I started the motor the other day after sitting only for an hour or so (warm engine), noticed the low oil pressure buzzer didn't sound of at all when I turned on the ignition key. Didn't think much about it and headed out. Noticed that none of my gauges were working (amp meter, tack, fuel and temp). Shut it down and cursed a while, opened a cold beer. Tried the key again and after 2 or 3 times of cycling the key on and off, I got the buzzer and gauges back. Hmmmm. It seemed to work once every 2 or 3 trys. Crawled into the lazarette, removed the access panel, checked for loose wires. All was fine. Finished the beer. Figured the contacts inside the ignition switch could be the culprit. Sprayed a quick shot of WD 40 into the key slot. Works like a charm now on every try. Probably time for a new ignition switch in the near future. Hope the WD40 doesn't hurt anything. The key sure enters through that rubber stuff a lot easier too.
 
jreddington

jreddington

Member III
As far as a tiny trickle of current affecting the starter solenoid, that's pretty hard to occur and if it did it wouldn't damage the solenoid. In any electrical system the long term wear villain is heat aging of the insulation. A very small current would not produce much heat within the coil so it would not lead to accellerated degradation and failure of the coil. It would more likely just cause a dead battery if the battery selector is not turned to off when you leave the boat.

Jim R.
 
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newgringo

Member III
Install a Starter Relay

My solution for the same problem is to do what the Mercruiser inboard/outboard folks (and others I'm sure) have done since day one - install a starter relay near the starter motor. This eliminates voltage drop to the starter solenoid when cranking. Cheap to buy and easy to wire. Separating the glow plug from starter button is also desirable as well as another small relay to disable the low oil pressure buzzer when energizing the glow plugs. All easy to do and nice to have modifications.
 
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jgarmin098

Member II
Speaking of Oil Pressure Alarm Relay...

The folks I raft with on the weekends give me the business every time I preheat before starting cold. Apparently my oil pressure alarm (buzzer) annoys them. How, exactly, would I install said oil pressure alarm relay to prevent that oh so annoying buzzing during preheat?

Of course, I might just reconsider and leave it as is. I love the faces they make early Sunday morning after a long night of hard drinking....
 
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newgringo

Member III
Buzzer Disable Relay

This was one of the first modifications I did to our E32-3 with an M25. The idea is simple. When the glow plug button is pushed a relay is energized to interrupt the power to the alarm(buzzer) circuit. Just about any 12 volt coil normally open relay will suffice. It only carries a couple of amperes but I recommend a sealed one to stave off the inenitable corrosion that attacks boats in time. The circuit for mine is attached.
 

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Tom Metzger

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
A suggestion

I think the buzzer might be a little louder if it was connected to 12 volts. :rolleyes:

The wiring diagram doesn't show the start switch separated from the glow plug switch, so there is no 12 volt source.

Connect the relay contact to the left side of glow plug switch, or if they are separated, either switch.
 
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