Teak plywood source

[Sven]

After a recommendation from a marina neighbor we placed an order with WEBER PLYWOOD & LUMBER CO in Tustin.

The order for teak veneer somehow got lost but they will remedy that by UPS shipping it to us for delivery on Monday. The 3/4" 4x8 sheets of teak plywood (bookfold one side, plugged on the other, exterior grade) were there and are gorgeous.

They suggested that we pick out sheets that matched rather than just "this is what you get" and they helped us load.

At ~$120 per sheet the plywood is cheaper than what we have been paying for other hardwood plywoods at a local hardwood place and the quality is superior.

If you need teak plywood I'd definitely give these guys a call. Maybe you can getter a better (quality and price) deal but we're more than satisfied.



-Sven

 

[Sven]

Here is a picture of the beautiful teak veneer which UPS delivered to us yesterday. It is wafer thin and perfect book-fold with a wood backing.

It will seem like a sin to cut it and try to glue it in place ... one mis-step and I've ruined a work of art.



-Sven

 

[tenders]

Sven, what kind of adhesive are you using on the veneer? Is the stock contact adhesive waterproof enough for use on the boat?

3M told me yes, but I'm a bit apprehensive.

 

[Sven]

Sven, what kind of adhesive are you using on the veneer? Is the stock contact adhesive waterproof enough for use on the boat?

3M told me yes, but I'm a bit apprehensive.

I'm getting advice about that on the cruisers forum. I wanted to avoid contact cement if I could since it takes perfect 1-time alignment or you have a mess. I would prefer a quick-cure epoxy but the jury is still out.



-Sven

 

[Mark F]

Wasn't someone here talking about an iron-on application? I'd be curious to hear what you find out Sven. Also what are you veneering?

 

[Sven]

Also what are you veneering?

The water discolored areas around the leaking portholes, as we replace the portholes with new ones from NFM.



-Sven

 

[CSMcKillip]

Question, you replaced the ports- do you have to just remove the inner aluminum ring to replace the wood then reinstall the inside frame?

Gotta do the same thing as our veneer is shot!

 

[Sven]

Question, you replaced the ports- do you have to just remove the inner aluminum ring to replace the wood then reinstall the inside frame?

If you are keeping the same frame I would assume that is the case. We are getting rid of the translucent plastic opening portholes and installing SS portholes from NFM so we also have to rout out the new larger hole before fitting the portholes.

You would also have to re-caulk either way.



-Sven

 

[Sven]

Wasn't someone here talking about an iron-on application? I'd be curious to hear what you find out Sven. Also what are you veneering?

I finally found it. It was Tim's post at http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?p=44995 which has a link to his project. The cruisers forum had the same recommendation and I think it is the way we will go.

Thanks for the reminder Mark.



-Sven

 

[Mark F]

I'll be interested to hear how the glue works for you. I like the idea of positioning the veneer and then gluing. Contact cement works great but there is that anxiety just before committing ;-).

 

[Filkee]

Teak Plywood Sources

Any recommendations on where to shop for marine teak plywood these days? I'm way up in Vermont and need to do my cabin side. I noticed a lot of posts from around 2010 and am hoping for fresher info.

 

[tenders]

This place has or can get anything, and ship it. They happen to be 10 minutes from my house.

http://www.condonlumber.net/

 

[dt222]

Another

Here's a place in Medford, MA that I go to if you wanted to drive a bit:

http://www.boulterplywood.com/

Don

 

[Filkee]

Thanks everyone. 1/4" for cabin sides on a30-3, right?

 

[Filkee]

Boulter

Don - Thanks for the tip on Boulter. They took good care of me and shipped to VT. Now I just need it to get above freezing long enough for epoxy to cure.

 

[markvone]

A small 1500w space heater like the one in the picture or (better) one of the oil filled radiators will keep your interior as warm as you want it. I used my radiator this winter set on 600w when I needed to do glass work and the interior stayed about 45 with the boat in the water and temps never going above freezing outside. For curing epoxy I start the second hot air fan space heater when I get to the boat and kick the radiator up to 1500w. I don't like to run my old hot air fan heater unattended but my new one has built-in tip over and thermal shut off so I'll run it overnight to cure epoxy and shut it off the next day. These help keep the inside projects rolling when the weather is colder. They only cost $10-15.

Mark

 

[Filkee]

Heaters

I will be cranking up my little space heater in the snowstorm tomorrow.

 

[dt222]

Don - Thanks for the tip on Boulter. They took good care of me and shipped to VT. Now I just need it to get above freezing long enough for epoxy to cure.

Glad it worked out. They are a great place to visit if you are ever in the neighborhood.

1 Month until launch if spring ever comes to New England. Looks like you are going to get 2 inches tonight- we're up for 1.

 

[Filkee]

Rite of Passage

Same as it ever was...