I replaced a broken handle valve with some help by the guy who cleans the bottom. He used a wooden plug and cleaned while I removed and installed the new valve. He was nice enough to wait till i finished and stick around a few minutes after to ensure there were no problems.
Thru-hull valves ( “Seacocks” ) - the Achilles Heal
- Thread starter K2MSmith
- Start date
Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
It was a bit of a challenge to get myself positioned to apply the plunger. I didn't have weight belts and buoyancy was working against me. At one point I recall twisting onto my back to push upward against the hull. The hull had some mossy growth, but it wasn't too thick and wiped off with the hand. With some kicks of my fins I was able to get myself and the plunger head positioned right. To the surface for a gulp of air, then back down for a quick check showed it was good and secure. BTW, I am a pretty good swimmer, although not so young as I once was.
Or if you have a bottom cleaner, ask him to do it for you and it would be a piece of cake for him.
K2MSmith
Sustaining Member
To follow up from the boat… it appears that I have forespar valves in most locations with exception of the seawater input to the engine . I have now “exercised” them and they all open / close ok without leaking . The big valve handle (sink drain ) doesn’t appear to close to a full 90 degree position from inline . I’m wondering if that is how it is designed? It seems to bottom out like it was not made to turn any further .
Also I noticed that most hoses are double clamped with exception of the raw seawater hose . I just added a second clamp to that one ( see photo ) . Is this “belt and suspenders” approach common practice? I made sure there was enough hard surface under hose connection to clamp to . The hoses all look pretty good but I have no history in them . There is one more seacock valve down below I think for the cockpit drains . I visually inspected it , the hoses and clamps a few months ago . It looked pretty good, but now that I know all the valves seem to be free , I’ll check that one also .
Also I noticed that most hoses are double clamped with exception of the raw seawater hose . I just added a second clamp to that one ( see photo ) . Is this “belt and suspenders” approach common practice? I made sure there was enough hard surface under hose connection to clamp to . The hoses all look pretty good but I have no history in them . There is one more seacock valve down below I think for the cockpit drains . I visually inspected it , the hoses and clamps a few months ago . It looked pretty good, but now that I know all the valves seem to be free , I’ll check that one also .
Marine surveyors and insurance companies require two hose clamps on all fittings below the waterline, and most such fittings will accommodate two. Makes sense, because the attachment of the hose to an open seacock is part of the integrity of the hull.
Hoses to worry about are old, brittle bilge hoses, typically the big-diameter one for the Whale pump. Or any drain or bilge hose that looks suspicious, although since they're not under pressure visual inspection is usually good enough to let you sleep at night.
The engine hoses are more critical, since they get hot, can burst in event of some other engine disaster, and are susceptible to failing inside. In general they should be hard to the touch, not squeezable like Charmin, not bulging, not ragged, not split at the end because the former installer bought the wrong (expensive) hose, and well clamped. Some engine hoses have dates on them. Replace at 10-20 years? Anyway, have a close look at them, leaks or weakness are unacceptable.
Hoses to worry about are old, brittle bilge hoses, typically the big-diameter one for the Whale pump. Or any drain or bilge hose that looks suspicious, although since they're not under pressure visual inspection is usually good enough to let you sleep at night.
The engine hoses are more critical, since they get hot, can burst in event of some other engine disaster, and are susceptible to failing inside. In general they should be hard to the touch, not squeezable like Charmin, not bulging, not ragged, not split at the end because the former installer bought the wrong (expensive) hose, and well clamped. Some engine hoses have dates on them. Replace at 10-20 years? Anyway, have a close look at them, leaks or weakness are unacceptable.
Trident 147, a small step-up in price from the 144, carries no warning like this. Should this be suitable for a head intake and/or a sink drain line?
Trident Trident VAC XHD Bilge & Live Well Hose - #147 -
Smooth extra heavy wall vinyl hose. 147 is all clear (FDA) with black helix. Read More →
tridentmarine.com
That white corrugated hose looks like the original hose Ericson used. I had many feet of that hose that had hardened over the hears. Any movement of the brittle hose created tears in the corrugations and caused leaks. You might give that hose and any others like it a close inspection to see if they are still in good shape.
I used hose similar to this (or maybe the same) from a local supplier as much as I could for drains and raw water intake.
www.mcmaster.com
I used hose similar to this (or maybe the same) from a local supplier as much as I could for drains and raw water intake.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.